post your latest transmission lubricant change.
- Thread starter ledslinger
- Start date
2006 Chev Trailblazer 4.2L. 284,000km with 11.5 years and 120,000km on a mix of Maxlife and LV Amsoil (mostly). No filter change, merely a fluid exchange using the output cooler line at the rad.
In went Maxlife LV. I had pondered using PetroCan Duradrive LV or even the Irving made Motomaster LV ATF. The decision came down to convenience. Happened to be at Walmart, which has the best price on Maxlife and it now saves me a trip to town tomorrow and dealing with -20c weather.
The old fluid smelled like used ATF and was darker than fresh stuff but that was it.
In went Maxlife LV. I had pondered using PetroCan Duradrive LV or even the Irving made Motomaster LV ATF. The decision came down to convenience. Happened to be at Walmart, which has the best price on Maxlife and it now saves me a trip to town tomorrow and dealing with -20c weather.
The old fluid smelled like used ATF and was darker than fresh stuff but that was it.
the latest but was in nov 2024 a 2017 ram 3500 6.7L with 68 RFE transmissionmission.. truck had 96K miles. I replace valve body with modified version to help address one of the main issues this transmission can have and doing a 3 gallon drain and fill using o'reilly's ATF+4 synthetic fluid. I mistakenly got filters off amazon.. 90% are crap.. had issues with fluid draining out of TQ when it would sit for the night taking 15-20 second to engage in D or R.. replace filters with doc diesel and problem went away.. We full time rv so I normally change rear diff and transmission fluid every 30-35K miles..
2020 Acura RDX 3.5 QTS Honda Type 2 ATF, front differential Redline GL5 75-85
2004 Volvo S60, 112.5k, new car for me
Out: unknown (looked good)
In: HPL Manual Transmission Life 75W 6.3 cst, 2.1 quarts
Votex magnetic drain and fill plugs
Out: unknown (looked good)
In: HPL Manual Transmission Life 75W 6.3 cst, 2.1 quarts
Votex magnetic drain and fill plugs
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2011 GMC Yukon Denali 6.2l
This was my 109k mile (not by choice to wait that long) transmissionmission fluid change. I’ll do a write up on this entire process. The headaches and the “adventures” along the way.
It smelled as “burny” as it looks.
Chunky.
Yes that’s transmission fluid, not motor oil.
New deep pan, 40k tru-cool, new lines, Amsoil DEX VI, and the rebuild info is similar to anyone on here who knows how to properly build a transmissionmission @clinebarger suggests.
This was my 109k mile (not by choice to wait that long) transmissionmission fluid change. I’ll do a write up on this entire process. The headaches and the “adventures” along the way.
It smelled as “burny” as it looks.
Chunky.
Yes that’s transmission fluid, not motor oil.
New deep pan, 40k tru-cool, new lines, Amsoil DEX VI, and the rebuild info is similar to anyone on here who knows how to properly build a transmissionmission @clinebarger suggests.
2004 Tundra with 5 speed manual
Out: (allegedly) Red Line MT-90
In: AMSOIL Manual Transmission Transaxle Gear Lube GL-4
Wanted to do it myself so I knew it was done right. Also wanted to make sure that GL-4 was in there to make sure it didn't mess up the brass synchros.
I feel like the cold performance is a little better than the Red Line. It seems to take first and second gear easier. The warm performance appears the same. Red Line was very smooth when the transmission is fully warmed up, as is the AMSOIL.
Happy with the switch.
I now have AMSOIL in the gearbox, transfer case, and front and rear diffs. I also noticed the transfer case shifted a little easier when I put in the AMSOIL.
Out: (allegedly) Red Line MT-90
In: AMSOIL Manual Transmission Transaxle Gear Lube GL-4
Wanted to do it myself so I knew it was done right. Also wanted to make sure that GL-4 was in there to make sure it didn't mess up the brass synchros.
I feel like the cold performance is a little better than the Red Line. It seems to take first and second gear easier. The warm performance appears the same. Red Line was very smooth when the transmission is fully warmed up, as is the AMSOIL.
Happy with the switch.
I now have AMSOIL in the gearbox, transfer case, and front and rear diffs. I also noticed the transfer case shifted a little easier when I put in the AMSOIL.
1993 Volvo 240 Classic sedan, 260k, 20k OCI
Out: LM TopTec 1800
In: same
Fram XG8A filter, remote filter mount
14 liter cooler line exchange and remote filter replacement
Out: LM TopTec 1800
In: same
Fram XG8A filter, remote filter mount
14 liter cooler line exchange and remote filter replacement
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05 Honda Element 250k miles, on drain and fill 2 of 3 right now with Idemitsu Type H Plus. Got it on clearance for $1.95/qt, so I'm doing the drain and fills because of this, bought a lot of it. Had been using DW-1 since I bought it at 182k, the last d&f I did was with Valvoline MV Import synthetic atf 10k miles ago. I wanted a synthetic in it but I couldn't pass up the Idemitsu.
Finally did the CVT fluid in our NIssan Rogue. It would have been pretty easy except for the external cartridge filter. It looked like no big deal on some Youtube videos I watched, but wow it was very difficult to get the top bolt on and off. Maybe it's easier with a lift. I was pretty nervous I wouldn't be able to get it back on again. Just an extremely tight space. Had to use a small wrench and make tiny turns with it for what felt like a million times and had to do it blind. You can't see the top bolt. I dropped the pan and cleaned the magnets and pan out. It wasn't too bad. Some paste on them all. Replaced the pan gasket as well. I don't think I'll ever change that paper cartridge filter again though. It was black though, when it's yellow/orange new. Also changed the strainer filter inside the transmission when I dropped the pan. That was easy though. Not a ton in there.
Out: Nissan OEM
In: Red Line Non Slip CVT
Thinking about doing another change in a few hundred miles, but just a drain and fill this time. I got about 4.25 quarts out. About half. I feel like a drain and fill might only be 3 quarts given how much I got out from the pan.
Used the dipstick method. Didn't mess with the overflow drain bolt and using a scan tool etc. Probably could have used an infrared laser thermometer though. But then I'd have to leave my garage door open in the winter while it heated up. It seems to work. Hasn't grenaded yet.
Seems like it shifts more smoothly, but probably just me telling myself that after all the work getting the job done.
Also did front and rear diffs. That wasn't too bad. Bit of a pain to refill though. At least Hercules himself didn't torque the bolts previously.
I thought this was a good video for anyone looking to do the job.
Out: Nissan OEM
In: Red Line Non Slip CVT
Thinking about doing another change in a few hundred miles, but just a drain and fill this time. I got about 4.25 quarts out. About half. I feel like a drain and fill might only be 3 quarts given how much I got out from the pan.
Used the dipstick method. Didn't mess with the overflow drain bolt and using a scan tool etc. Probably could have used an infrared laser thermometer though. But then I'd have to leave my garage door open in the winter while it heated up. It seems to work. Hasn't grenaded yet.
Seems like it shifts more smoothly, but probably just me telling myself that after all the work getting the job done.
Also did front and rear diffs. That wasn't too bad. Bit of a pain to refill though. At least Hercules himself didn't torque the bolts previously.
I thought this was a good video for anyone looking to do the job.
This is a good video on the procedure itself, as well as torque specs. He makes that stupid little filter appear easy….IT IS NOT!
The only issue I have is how he leveled out the fluid in the end. The FSM is very specific on temp range and using the overflow plug. Once the level is correct, a drain and refill putting back what came out is fine. Assuming the old fluid is the same temp as the new and you didn’t spill a half qt in the garage. He had unknown amounts of fluid draining from the pan and the filter and then goes off of the dipstick while not knowing what the actual temp is. I would never do it this way, especially considering how catastrophic an overfill is on these things. A $100 scanguage is a must when performing full filter swaps. This is one of those jobs where you think all is fine, then going up the side of a mountain in July your cvt starts whining. I’m not saying that you need a dealership, you don’t. I’ve done this more than once. I’d never do it without using the leveling plug and capping it off at a steady stream at 104 degrees. Once these suckers start heating up, they climb quick. He could be off by 50 degrees the way he did it. This isn’t a job where “close is fine”.
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2022
- Messages
- 241
Did a drain and fill on my 2016 es350 with the U660E. I bought the car with 105k miles September 2025. Dealer maintained since day one, and it got all of its typical maintenance stuff like oil changes, inspections, and replacement of various parts as needed done every 5k miles religiously which is good, except they probably never bothered to change the trans fluid because Lexus says it’s lifetime fluid. I could not find any record of transmission service.
The transmission shifted amazing, couldn’t tell when it shifts. It was great, but I want to keep the car long term, and I did not want any problems to start developing, so I decided to do a drain and fill.
So I drained the old atf, which still looked good, it was dark, but I did not see any metal or clutch material, and fluid still had some red tint to it.
Drained whatever came out, filled it with Toyota genuine WS fluid, which I got 6 quarts of it for $40 at my dealer (Perks of being an employee at a dealer, you usually get stuff for cost plus 10, not the list price for regular customers.)
I did about 5 drain and fills until the fluid coming out looked somewhat fresh and new. Still a little dark, but at least I put in about 4 quarts of new fluid in, so at least the additives were replenished. Took me about 3 hours, took my time, and adjusted the fluid level properly at the end.
The transmission still shifts like butter, and I plan on doing another drain and fill in the spring time. It’s honestly the smoothest shifting transmission I’ve ever driven. Quite amazing how good it is.
The transmission shifted amazing, couldn’t tell when it shifts. It was great, but I want to keep the car long term, and I did not want any problems to start developing, so I decided to do a drain and fill.
So I drained the old atf, which still looked good, it was dark, but I did not see any metal or clutch material, and fluid still had some red tint to it.
Drained whatever came out, filled it with Toyota genuine WS fluid, which I got 6 quarts of it for $40 at my dealer (Perks of being an employee at a dealer, you usually get stuff for cost plus 10, not the list price for regular customers.)
I did about 5 drain and fills until the fluid coming out looked somewhat fresh and new. Still a little dark, but at least I put in about 4 quarts of new fluid in, so at least the additives were replenished. Took me about 3 hours, took my time, and adjusted the fluid level properly at the end.
The transmission still shifts like butter, and I plan on doing another drain and fill in the spring time. It’s honestly the smoothest shifting transmission I’ve ever driven. Quite amazing how good it is.
That's interesting. Thanks. I did it with the dipstick too. I took several measurements beforehand to make sure I knew where it was before I started the job, both hot and cold. (Oddly it seemed that the cold level was higher, and both were above the full mark on the dipstick from the dealer service...) I caught all of the CVT fluid I drained, and I put that much back in, and I also checked with the dipstick hot and cold and it matched.
I've thought about trying with a laser thermometer gun too next time. 104 C is the temp in the FSM? Let it run out until it's a steady stream?
As long as you put in what came out, you should be fine. Advance auto sells scanguage 2s for $127 with coupon. It will pay for itself real fast. I use mine whenever I take a long trip, especially in warm weather. I monitor alternator voltage, water temp and cvt temp on top of using it to service my cvt. Just an fyi, Nissan tuned the newer cvts to run hotter as they concluded that condensation was causing issue, so what you drained out may have actually had some condensation built up (depending on climate) so may have actually been more than what was put in. Think of fuel dilution but in the trans. When I 1st used the scanguage on my wife’s 24 and saw the cvt running @215 on a flat road in April, I about crapped. My 21 and 18 have only went over 200 climbing a mountain in July. I went straight to the dealer who contacted Nissan and relayed that info back to me. There’s a ton of videos on using the overflow bolt and consult or a monitor of some sort. I’ll do a drain, measure and refill but every other time I use the bolt and my monitor. Piece of mind.
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- Jul 3, 2025
- Messages
- 113
Right now, am replacing transmission lines on a freightliner m2 26 foot box truck. Outside in the snow. Lines are replaced with the help of my co-worker. Super rusty and going to start leaking soon. Line nuts needed heated and penetrating oil added to break free so they spin independently of the line.
Bought 12 quarts of transand 295 Allison transmission fluid. It's around $25 a quart! Wow
Drained the pan, changed the small external spin on filter!
Bought 12 quarts of transand 295 Allison transmission fluid. It's around $25 a quart! Wow
Drained the pan, changed the small external spin on filter!
Just wanted to add for someone who may find this, in case it's helpful, this video (link) is a better video on the process. It goes over how to use the overflow plug to get the right level. I'm going to do it over again to get more of the old fluid out, and also to use this procedure to get the level right. That video is for an Altima but it's the same CVT transmission used in the Rogue too.
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2024
- Messages
- 207
Similar experience to me with the transmissionmission in my 2011 RX 350 I bought about 6 months ago. I think it's called a U660F in mine but a very similar Aisin transmissionmission like the one in your ES. Car has 180,000 miles on it and when I drained it the fluid was black as night and a bit stinky. Would not know it from the shifting though, just a small judder around 25-30mph which I have remedied with 3 drain and fills. Pretty remarkable for that amount of time and mileage and (most likely from the looks of the fluid)never having been serviced.
Just did another change today. However I just did a drain and fill this time. You only get about half out, or for me, I got even less. This time I got about 3.25 quarts out. Capacity is about 8.5 to 9 quarts.
I used a laser thermometer to monitor the transmission temp. I got a decent gush out. I checked with the dipstick when I was done, and I believe the dealer way overfilled it. The level when I did it was right at the top of the hot mark on the dipstick. However it was quite a bit above that when I checked before starting the job.
Given that I only will get a third out or so every time, I'm wondering if I should do this more frequently than every 10,000 miles.
This is what I drained this time. Honestly about the same as the first time.
2006 Toyota Matrix:
Out- unknown
In- Castrol Import + 5oz LG Platinum
3.4 qts in/out (7.7 QT total capacity).
247,072 miles. Just bought this car for a family member of mine. Although I may keep it and let him use the Corolla, kind of like the thing!
Fluid was pretty rough looking. Unsure when/if it has been changed. Shifts smoothly though, so there's that at least. Plan is to do 2 more drain/fills over the next few weeks and possibly drop the pan & replace the filter on the last one.
Out- unknown
In- Castrol Import + 5oz LG Platinum
3.4 qts in/out (7.7 QT total capacity).
247,072 miles. Just bought this car for a family member of mine. Although I may keep it and let him use the Corolla, kind of like the thing!
Fluid was pretty rough looking. Unsure when/if it has been changed. Shifts smoothly though, so there's that at least. Plan is to do 2 more drain/fills over the next few weeks and possibly drop the pan & replace the filter on the last one.
Nice car. I wonder if that's a Fremont car or a Canada car? I think that's the 2 places the US sourced them from.
NUMMI used to crank out cars like hotcakes. I toured the plant a couple of times.
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