post your latest transmission lubricant change.

Drain and fill 2014 odyssey. Approx 15k since last drain and fill. No issues, just wanted to do it.

OUT: amsoil SS/HPL green atf
IN: HPL green atf

Is this drain plug normal? All the other ones I’ve seen aren’t notched this way. Always torqued to 35 lb ft spec with new crush washer.

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Trans Drain and Fill on recently acquired 2020 GX460 (48k miles)
Also Did a fluid exchange of PS fluid with some Valvoline Dex/Merc ATF I had in the garage. OEM stuff was dark and burnt smelling.

Out ~2.5 quarts
In ~3 quarts of Idemitsu ATF Type TLS-LV (Used FSM level check procedure)
Took an Oil sample (from the level port) for OAI to do a particle count prior to drain and fill.
Lots of "stuff" at the bottom of my drain pan

Future Plans: Short term install magnefine filter on cooler line. ~6months or so pull another sample for particle analysis.
Next HPL Sale, order ~14 quarts of ATF and do a fluid exchange of the system capacity. (11.4qarts)

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Finally, HPL MTFLife 75W arrived. I ordered it on December 30th. A person from @High Performance Lubricants called me to say that USPS (I choose UPS) shipping was actually cheaper than listed, so if I want that option. Kudos to HPL for such customer service. Not that it mattered, as this was an experiment anyway, and really did not need to change the fluid.
Anyhow, had car on Quickjacks for 5 days. I was changing the radiator preventively since it has 150k, and altitude is not forgiving to compromised cooling parts. The radiator was $168 and took 30min to change. I was lazy to take down the car before this arrived.
Anyhow, I let Motul MultiATF to drain like and hour while picking up kids from school:
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Warmed up HPL to room temperature so it goes in easier:

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So far, I cannot feel the difference in shifting between Motul and HPL, which is good. Motul MultiATF is smooth as butter.
Will see what happens when I heat up gearbox or start car at -20 or -30 at ski place. Shifting wise, I would say it is upgrade from Redline D4 which is darling among BMW E90 owners.
 
1993 GMC Sierra 1500
4L60E
Replaced a bad unit with a good used unit, drained, replaced filter and pan gasket, replaced tail shaft seal and front seal
Out: unknown oil
In: Fram Dex/Merc
 
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2019 Sierra AT4 104k miles 6.2L 10l80
Co-Worker complained of a shutter and the dealer told him he needed a new torque converter. i told him to bring it to me.

out/off: factory fill and factory filter

in/on: lubequard red, Lube guard shutter fix and approximately 9 quarts of Valvoline ULV fluid.

also took care of spark plugs, wires, serpentine belt, idler pulley, cleaned his throttle body and reset the adaptive idle table.

he said his truck has never driven so good (he bought it at 65k miles).

dealer quoted $2500-3000 for TC only. i was in and out with labor for $960 on everything else i did aswell.

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2019 Sierra AT4 104k miles 6.2L 10l80
Co-Worker complained of a shutter and the dealer told him he needed a new torque converter. i told him to bring it to me.

out/off: factory fill and factory filter

in/on: lubequard red, Lube guard shutter fix and approximately 9 quarts of Valvoline ULV fluid.

also took care of spark plugs, wires, serpentine belt, idler pulley, cleaned his throttle body and reset the adaptive idle table.

he said his truck has never driven so good (he bought it at 65k miles).

dealer quoted $2500-3000 for TC only. i was in and out with labor for $960 on everything else i did aswell.

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Did the exhaust have to drop down? I have debated whether the pan will really clear the exhaust on my Yukon.
 
1993 C1500 5.7l 4l60e, not sure when the last time was, maybe 20-30k miles. Siphon and refilled, fluid was nice and bright.
Out~ Maxlife atf
In~ Valvoline MV Import Syn ATF
 
Did the exhaust have to drop down? I have debated whether the pan will really clear the exhaust on my Yukon.
if you have a 8 or 10 speed the cross over pipe has to come down. drop the 3 flange bolts on each side and it will hang down enough to do the job. best done with a couple extensions, deep impact sockets, a universal joint and impact.
 
if you have a 8 or 10 speed the cross over pipe has to come down. drop the 3 flange bolts on each side and it will hang down enough to do the job. best done with a couple extensions, deep impact sockets, a universal joint and impact.
Thanks, I have the 10 speed, so I was afraid of that.
 
Two drain and refills. AC Delco Dexron VI. Used my West Marine oil extractor. Five qts. Each time with a drive in between. 102,000 miles. Third time doing the fluid exchange. Same amount out/in as a pan drop which requires dropping the exhaust. What a stupid design. 2017 GMC Sierra. If the filter is clogged, the damage has already happened……
 
2002 Impala, 178K miles.

Out: Factory fill, six quarts using the Mity-Vac.
In: Valvoline ATF from the parts store.

This was my parent's car; I am sure this was the factory-fill fluid because my dad was never one to spend money on maintenance. To him, that was "nickel-and-diming", so he just didn't do it.

I'll do it again in a few months, at which time I'll drop the pan and change the filter too.
 
2006 Acura TSX, 233K, 25K service
MityVac extract; fluid looked fine.
In: 2.5 qts DW-1 and 4 oz Lubegard Syn

Also inspected, cleaned and lubed front pads; they have over 80K. Wearing even. One slider pin was tight.
Tire rotation for the expensive Michelin Pilot AS rubber. This car is perfect.
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2013 Honda Civic LX, 179K, 3,700 OCI
Out and in: 2.3 qts DW-1 and about 4 oz Lubegard

Also swapped plugs; previous NGK Iridium had 98K. Looked perfect. I did the last plugs when I got the car for my grand niece when she was stationed at Fort Pendleton Base in San Diego. It was so easy to remove the coils and plugs. I used dielectric grease on the coils and a small swab of anti-seize and 13 # ft of torque for the plugs.
 
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