Post your latest oil change

Pennzoil motor oil
2026 XC40. One of the last early oil changes, just shy of 3k miles on oil, just shy of 6k miles on engine. Castrol Euro M out and in, no filter change this time. Feels nice to whittle down the oil stash

IMG_2994.webp
 
2022 Toyota Tundra with 55,045 miles (Almost 23k on engine recall/replacement). Oil was in use for just under 4.5 months and 5,159 miles.

My plan was to use Mobil 1 ESP exclusively in this engine, but I bought some Valvoline Restore & Protect because it had been on sale and rebate. So next two runs will be Valvoline and then back to Mobil 1 ESP.

Out: Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30
Off: Baldwin B37 filter

In: Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W-30
On: Toyota YZZN3 filter
 
2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 ext. cab 4x4 with a 4.3L V6 and 169,755 miles.

Oil was in use for 5,035 miles, 125.4 hours and 4.5 months. This was the 5th run of Valvoline Restore & Protect. Still a decent amount of cleaning going on, though the truck was not consuming oil before Restore & Protect. I just recently cut open the oil filter from the last OCI and saw that there's still a fair amount of black carbon bits between the filter pleats.

Out: Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W-30
Off: Baldwin B7449

In: Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W-30
On: AC Delco PF-63
 
2016 Mazda 6. 2.5L 138,700 miles. 11k OCI 🤣🙄. Dumped whatever the local Ford dealer put in and replaced with GTX high mileage synblend with a carquest red filter. Set the oil reminder as it was turned off. 4000 miles I’ll see it again. Drain plug wouldn’t budge, not factory plug. Couldn’t get it to budge and rounded it a bit (Dorman). Had to pound a socket onto it and then hit the end of the ratchet with my hand a few times to get it to move. Peeled out some black rubber gasket and ran to AA for a new factory style plug. Plug was leaking when I removed the access cover. Still can’t understand why oil monkeys have to tighten everything with a 1/2 breaker bar.


IMG_1470.webp
 
After buttoning up a valve lash change at 76,000 miles, where the cams had to come out, I also replaced 12 out of the 16 manual cam cups with changes. I installed both new CVVT cam phasers, timing chain, chain tensioner, all guides, new timing cover that contains the new oil pump and a new water pump. I also install one at a time, 10 ARP head studs as Hyundai OEM head bolts are known to stretch. I went from stock 17 psi to 23-24 psi, for the last 5 years.

Dumped all fluids in the car since all are opened up on a timing cover pull. When it was buttoned up I installed 5 qts Pennzoil 5w-30 10,000 mile $23 jug. Ran it for 4 minutes with the previous oil filter (CarQuest Premium) . Dumped the oil and added Valvoline 5w-40 Euro and 1/2 a qt of HPL EC 40 wt. Ran that around town for 25 miles and pulled the CQ Premium and added a NAPA Platinum oil filter and will dump again when I get 500 miles with this oil, but will keep the Platinum on. The CVVT sprockes/chain have a weird fit togeather, so I will let a break-in fit for bit and dump this oil.

Mainia

Thread 'Digging in "big time" into my Hyundai this week'

2018 Hyundai Kona 1.6T AWD tuner car ( look at my signature link below) 76,000 HARD miles. Hyundai put in mechanical lifters in the 1.6T JUST because they are CHEAP, they say performance engine HA HA. GTI and Golf R have hydraulic lifters. Enough said. They spec to check at 60,000 some have seen a need to adjust at this point too. I also want to stick in some ARP head studs and dump the OEM head bolts that are known to stretch. One for one replacement, to keep the head gasket seal, I hope. I also want to replace the high pressure fuel pump roller cam as a preventative maintenance issue...

.
 
Mainia said:
After buttoning up a valve lash change at 76,000 miles, where the cams had to come out, I also replaced 12 out of the 16 manual cam cups with changes. I installed both new CVVT cam phasers, timing chain, chain tensioner, all guides, new timing cover that contains the new oil pump and a new water pump. I also install one at a time, 10 ARP head studs as Hyundai OEM head bolts are known to stretch. I went from stock 17 psi to 23-24 psi, for the last 5 years.

Dumped all fluids in the car since all are opened up on a timing cover pull. When it was buttoned up I installed 5 qts Pennzoil 5w-30 10,000 mile $23 jug. Ran it for 4 minutes with the previous oil filter (CarQuest Premium) . Dumped the oil and added Valvoline 5w-40 Euro and 1/2 a qt of HPL EC 40 wt. Ran that around town for 25 miles and pulled the CQ Premium and added a NAPA Platinum oil filter and will dump again when I get 500 miles with this oil, but will keep the Platinum on. The CVVT sprockes/chain have a weird fit togeather, so I will let a break-in fit for bit and dump this oil.

Mainia

Thread 'Digging in "big time" into my Hyundai this week'

2018 Hyundai Kona 1.6T AWD tuner car ( look at my signature link below) 76,000 HARD miles. Hyundai put in mechanical lifters in the 1.6T JUST because they are CHEAP, they say performance engine HA HA. GTI and Golf R have hydraulic lifters. Enough said. They spec to check at 60,000 some have seen a need to adjust at this point too. I also want to stick in some ARP head studs and dump the OEM head bolts that are known to stretch. One for one replacement, to keep the head gasket seal, I hope. I also want to replace the high pressure fuel pump roller cam as a preventative maintenance issue...

.
Click to expand...
What oil(s) were you using and what kind of OCIs. Any times where oil temps were getting pretty high? Seems like some varnish residue for only 76K on the engine.

Was it burning any oil from possible gummed up piston rings?

Edit - I found this post in that thread. Very strange you'd have this varnish based on that post. Maybe due to very high oil temperatures at times?

Mainia

Post in thread 'Digging in "big time" into my Hyundai this week'

So I was kinda surprised I still had varnish inside my engine with all the boutiques, Valvoline Restore and Protect (VRP), and HPL Engine Cleaner, ALL at 3,000 miles or less OCI. It was mostly a micro layer I would classify as a stain. The place I dump in oil was clean, but were I can't see has varnish staining. This winter were I normally run VRP I will be running Mobil 1 Advanced Clean one time. Not that I am going to see it, as I hope everything is still running ok so I don't want to see the inside of my valvetrain. An abused/thrashed Hyundai/Kia engine has got to be at the top 3 of...
  • Like
 
ZeeOSix said:
What oil(s) were you using and what kind of OCIs. Any times where oil temps were getting pretty high? Seems like some varnish residue for only 76K on the engine.

Was it burning any oil from possible gummed up piston rings?

Edit - I found this post in that thread. Very strange you'd have this varnish based on that post. Maybe due to very high oil temperatures at times?

Mainia

Post in thread 'Digging in "big time" into my Hyundai this week'

So I was kinda surprised I still had varnish inside my engine with all the boutiques, Valvoline Restore and Protect (VRP), and HPL Engine Cleaner, ALL at 3,000 miles or less OCI. It was mostly a micro layer I would classify as a stain. The place I dump in oil was clean, but were I can't see has varnish staining. This winter were I normally run VRP I will be running Mobil 1 Advanced Clean one time. Not that I am going to see it, as I hope everything is still running ok so I don't want to see the inside of my valvetrain. An abused/thrashed Hyundai/Kia engine has got to be at the top 3 of...
  • Like
Click to expand...
ALWAYS 3,000 or less OCI.

Never burned a drop of oil, just as 1.5Qt fuel dilution gain in 3,000 miles. Until Redline Performance cracked the rings jamb open. I no longer have fuel dilution, but a hair when it is -0 in Minnesota winters.

Mobil 1 Extend
Mobil 1 Euro
AMSOIL Signature Series
Pennzoil Platinum, Euro L
Pennzoil Ultra
Motul 5w-40 8100 Clean Gen 1 and Gen 2
Motul 5w-30 X-Clean
Quaker State 5w-40 Euro
Old est/pao Mobil1 5w-30 ESP
Redline Performance 5w-30 Euro
1 sump Motul V300 ester 5w-40
Mobil 1 0w-30 ESP
Valvoline Restore and Protect
Valvoline Euro 5w-40

Multi brand used with HPL Engine Cleaner 40wt

Yes, a thrashed turbo car, no tracking because I knew it can't because of oil temps #1 and it a Hyundai daily driver #2. It is not sustained either. No idea of temps because there are no PIDs in the ECU for it in this car, like the N-Series Hyundai's that have PIDs in the ECU and the Ns have oil temps displayed.
 
Last edited:
ZeeOSix said:
:oops: ...Kind of wild considering that OCI and list of oils.
Click to expand...
It's a turbo Hyundai, they are VERY hard on oil. I have black oil in winter and summer at 3,000 miles. It might help to get an air to oil cooler but the car is maxed with the radiator too, so it can't go in front of that. So maybe low and behind the large aftermarket intercooler. I will have to check if my XTool D8W tablet has been updated with oil temp, they did not have it 2 years ago when I checked.
 
Mainia said:
...No idea of temps because there are no PIDs in the ECU for it in this car...
Click to expand...
Are you sure?
Torque Pro is (almost) no longer supported, but their Hyundai EX add-in (which is also probably no longer supported) works great for the stuff that's already supported. This is what models it lists on mine:

1785723097022.webp
1785723126407.webp


1785723147840.webp
1785723167162.webp


1785723185390.webp




This is the add-in:
Screenshot_20260802_215335_Google Play Store.webp


And this is Torque Pro:
Screenshot_20260802_215412_Google Play Store.webp


All in all it's probably less than 20 bucks combined.

There's a way to enable the add-in in Torque Pro, and to specify the model.

After that, the trick is to look not for Engine Oil Temperature (which Torque Pro will list as an option no matter what as it's a standard OBD2 option), but "CVVT temp" or was it "CVVT Oil Temp".

Works great on my V6. Took me a while to figure out.
Of course, if the ECU doesn't support the PID - it doesn't, but you never know. Maybe it's there.
 
Last edited:
goblin said:
Are you sure?
Torque Pro is (almost) no longer supported, but their Hyundai EX add-in (which is also probably no longer supported) works great for the stuff that's already supported. This is what models it lists on mine:

View attachment 351078 View attachment 351079

View attachment 351080 View attachment 351081

View attachment 351082



This is the add-in:
View attachment 351073

And this is Torque Pro:
View attachment 351074

All in all it's probably less than 20 bucks combined.

There's a way to enable the add-in in Torque Pro, and to specify the model.

After that, the trick is to look not for Engine Oil Temperature (which Torque Pro will list as an option no matter what as it's a standard OBD2 option), but "CVVT temp" or was it "CVVT Oil Temp".

Works great on my V6. Took me a while to figure out.
Of course, if the ECU doesn't support the PID - it doesn't, but you never know. Maybe it's there.
Click to expand...
I will check tomorrow if they the XTool can get oil temp data now. There have been many updates since then. It did not 2 years ago/with an Xtool D7 ( same data capabilities between them) . D8W is a $600 tablet. Also my Banks iDash can scan my ECU for available PIDs ports and if I remember right it failed to find the oil PID port. That doesn't mean Xtool did not find a work around, I hope. There is always another way, as I can pull the pan, and TIG weld in a threaded port if I want. I do that on transmission pans with no drains. The wife's Rav4 has a trans pan drain I TIG welded in.
 
Last edited:
Mainia said:
I will check tomorrow if they the XTool can get oil temp data now. There have been many updates since then. It did not 2 years ago/with an Xtool D7 ( same data capabilities between them) . D8W is a $600 tablet. Also my Banks iDash can scan my ECU for available PIDs ports and if I remember right it failed to find the oil PID port. That doesn't mean Xtool did not find a work around, I hope. There is always another way, as I can pull the pan, and TIG weld in a threaded port if I want. I do that on transmission pans with no drains. The wife's Rav4 has a trans pan drain I TIG welded in.
Click to expand...
I distinctly remember that when I scanned mine for available pids it was reporting no oil temp. Yet I got the cvvt temp option once I got the plugin.

If your engine is in the list above, I'd give torque pro + plugin a shot. It's old and stuck in time, but is great for dashboards.

Screenshot_20251230_075317_Torque.webp


Screenshot_20260122_074404_Torque.webp


It can be personalized in plenty of ways, including start with the vehicle, all the way to inverted view if you want to project it to a HUD. Works with BT and Wi-Fi dongles, etc.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Superbuick96
  • Locked
Oil recommendations
Replies
12
Views
4K
Spector
N
  • Locked
Castrol High mileage or Valvoline Maxlife
2
Replies
20
Views
5K
NH73
stchman
  • Locked
%synth %conv on AC Delco 5W-20 and 5W-30
Replies
4
Views
2K
RamFan
G
  • Locked
Kendall GT 1 Synthetic Blend 5w-30
Replies
4
Views
7K
Gunatics_Adler
0
  • Locked
7500mile Honda 3.5L OCI
Replies
5
Views
3K
FZ1
Back
Top Bottom