Post your latest oil change

Factory fill of a 26 VW Taos - 1.5 L Turbo motor- was dumped today at 1000 miles after break-in completed. Refilled with Castrol Euro Car 0w20. The old oil looked darker than I would have expected. The engine seems quieter and smoother with the new oil, but it could all be in my head. The new oil goes in a bit dark as it is a darker green colour in virgin form, easy to read on the dipstick.

I was surprised to find out that you need to use a new oil pan drain bolt on each oil change as the washer does not come away from the drain bolt. This is a stupid system, and a waste of good drain bolts, why mess up a good thing by just replacing washers instead of a full bolt. I've read where you can cut off the washer and then use replaceable washers but I didn't want to mess up the bolt as I had no spares to work with. Never seen this in many years of changing oil.
FWIW
A friend of mine has a VW with similar bolt situation. I'm not sure which year/model but he uses a mity vac for OCs and doesn't touch the bolt.
 
I was surprised to find out that you need to use a new oil pan drain bolt on each oil change as the washer does not come away from the drain bolt. This is a stupid system, and a waste of good drain bolts, why mess up a good thing by just replacing washers instead of a full bolt. I've read where you can cut off the washer and then use replaceable washers but I didn't want to mess up the bolt as I had no spares to work with. Never seen this in many years of changing oil.

If that were my car I would just keep reusing that bolt until it started to leak. I bet it will go many oil changes and not leak. I highly doubt that a fast lube place is going to be keeping these bolts in stock and even the dealership will probably not put a new one on either
 
If that were my car I would just keep reusing that bolt until it started to leak. I bet it will go many oil changes and not leak. I highly doubt that a fast lube place is going to be keeping these bolts in stock and even the dealership will probably not put a new one on either

Yeah that's what I am doing. You are right I doubt oil change places will change the bolts or keep them in stock, or they would charge you a large amount if needed. I checked that the bolt is 14 x 1.5 , and I may pick up an aftermarket one in the future which uses copper washers.
 
2025 Subaru Crosstrek 2.0

OUT:
Dealer fill Castrol Edge 0W-16
OEM black filter

IN: Dealer fill Castrol Edge 0W-16
OEM black filter

Only sitting at 12,000 Kilometres currently. I’m going to go back to the dealership for another oil change at 15,000Km and that will be the third oil change since new. Starting at 20,000Km I’m going start servicing it myself at home, bump the OCI up to 10,000Km from 5,000Km, and OEM filters with Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 oil.

This website was great resource in helping me come to that decision. This is my seventh Subaru but my first brand new car so I want to see how long I can make the original powertrain last.
 
5qts of liquid gold before I put 3k miles on over the next month for work.
IMG_0377.webp
 
Wife's new 2026 Honda Pilot. I HATE this car. 2nd least comfortable vehicle I've ever been in, engine sounds like an older VW TDI. Transmission acts like a CVT for the first 3 gears. What crap they're putting out now.

607mi. Used vacuum pump to suck out the 0w-20 factory fill & put in Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30. Left factory filter on.

I'd be happy if this thing spontaneously combusts & can be replaced with something decent like a 10yr old 4Runner or Sequoia.
Why don't you tell us how you really feel? :ROFLMAO:
 
Wife's new 2026 Honda Pilot. I HATE this car. 2nd least comfortable vehicle I've ever been in, engine sounds like an older VW TDI. Transmission acts like a CVT for the first 3 gears. What crap they're putting out now.

607mi. Used vacuum pump to suck out the 0w-20 factory fill & put in Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30. Left factory filter on.

I'd be happy if this thing spontaneously combusts & can be replaced with something decent like a 10yr old 4Runner or Sequoia.
So why did you buy it?
 
2022 Toyota Tundra with the 3.4 TT V6. 49,886 miles on the truck, 17.5k miles on the engine. This OCI was 4,908 miles.

Out: 7.7 quarts Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30
Off: Toyota 90915-10100 filter

In: 7.7 quarts Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30
On: Baldwin B37 filter
How are you liking ESP 0W30? I’ve got a 24 with 25K…original engine. Three months short of the new recall. Runs fantastic. Currently using EP 0W20.
 
It would be a great step up from what you're running and would give those main bearings a shot at not grenading.
I’ve been pouring the old oil into a strainer. So far no fragments that I can see. Tuesday is oil change day and I’ll be cutting open the filter. I’ve heard thicker oils won’t save this engine since it’s a design flaw.
 
How are you liking ESP 0W30? I’ve got a 24 with 25K…original engine. Three months short of the new recall. Runs fantastic. Currently using EP 0W20.
It seems to be a quality oil, and the engine runs a little bit more quiet with a 30 weight. The original engine was running fine at 32,xxx when they swapped it for the recall. I changed out the factory fill at 7xx miles and switched to ESP 0W-30, and have been running it since. How have you liked your '24 and running EP 0W-20 in it?
 
I’ve been pouring the old oil into a strainer. So far no fragments that I can see. Tuesday is oil change day and I’ll be cutting open the filter. I’ve heard thicker oils won’t save this engine since it’s a design flaw.
Yeah it does seem to be a design flaw, but it's just doing the best you can I suppose. Better protection. I'd even consider going up to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40 or Quaker State Euro 5W-40. It has port injection too so your intake valves should be ok.
 
It seems to be a quality oil, and the engine runs a little bit more quiet with a 30 weight. The original engine was running fine at 32,xxx when they swapped it for the recall. I changed out the factory fill at 7xx miles and switched to ESP 0W-30, and have been running it since. How have you liked your '24 and running EP 0W-20 in it?
It’s been running great. Gas mileage for the tank average is right at 20 mpgs. Highest trip average was 26.4 mpgs on a 25 mile drive. Ive tried different octanes 87-93 top tier and they all yield the same mpgs. 87 top tier is all I use. I’ve been changing it every 5K. I bought the prepaid maintenance plan like an idiot till 85K. I do the 5K the dealer does the 10K. As soon as i get home from the 10K service I syphon out the dealer bulk oil and fill the EP…I know it’s a waste of money. At least this way it’s documented it’s been done. The spark plug change is covered at 40K…hoping I make it that long, lol.
 
Yeah it does seem to be a design flaw, but it's just doing the best you can I suppose. Better protection. I'd even consider going up to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40 or Quaker State Euro 5W-40. It has port injection too so your intake valves should be ok.
I may go with the ESP route at some point. I don’t push my truck hard. Normal driving and I don’t tow anything. It gets better mpgs than my beloved 15 Tacoma got.
 
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