Post your latest oil change

Yes it is the SP. I’m guessing you have an SN jug? And your use case is in a GM Gen V V8? I think you’d be alright even with an older formula. Especially if half of such is newer SP.

Third change in a row with FS, all is well.
Yes, plus have 5 quarts Mobil 1 Supercar - thinking 50/50 …
Also have LubeGard Turbo that claims to quench LSPI …
(Think it’s ester/moly and no Ca) …
 
Yes, plus have 5 quarts Mobil 1 Supercar - thinking 50/50 …
Also have LubeGard Turbo that claims to quench LSPI …
(Think it’s ester/moly and no Ca) …
I think you'd be more than safe with that mix. Plus they really aren't that susceptible to LSPI. I'd go for it.
 
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Wow! High miles! Does it use any oil? And how’s Valvoline Restore and Protect cleaning? Fill hole view.
There wasn't really much to clean, the valvetrain was already very clean. I suspect there is a lot of carbon deposits on the piston rings, though. It usually uses about a quart every 1000 miles but it seems to be slowing down a bit.
 
In preparation for a Minnesota winter…

Car: 2004 Audi A6 Quattro 2.7T Sport Package, 6-speed manual
Odometer: 208211 miles
OCI: ~3500 miles

Out: 7.5qts Frankenbrew of 5:1 blend of 5W-30 Valvoline Restore and Protect and HPL Engine Cleaner SAE 40.
Off: Donaldson P557780 filter

In: 7.5qts HPL 5W-20 Euro No VII PCMO
On: Mobil 1 M1-301A filter

Notable #1: Yamalube Ring Free Plus “shock treatment” was performed on the last full tank of fuel burned during this OCI.
Notable #2: last 4 OCI have used the noted outgoing Valvoline Restore and Protect + HPL Engine Cleaner Frankenbrew
Notable #3: BG EPR treatment was performed on outgoing oil; 40-mins at 1400rpm.
Notable #4: A “rinse” oil change after the EPR treatment was performed using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 and a Fram oil filter supplemented with BG MOA; idled car for 10-minutes, then dumped the PUP and Fram for the final fill and filter.
 
In preparation for a Minnesota winter…

Car: 2004 Audi A6 Quattro 2.7T Sport Package, 6-speed manual
Odometer: 208211 miles
OCI: ~3500 miles

Out: 7.5qts Frankenbrew of 5:1 blend of 5W-30 Valvoline Restore and Protect and HPL Engine Cleaner SAE 40.
Off: Donaldson P557780 filter

In: 7.5qts HPL 5W-20 Euro No VII PCMO
On: Mobil 1 M1-301A filter

Notable #1: Yamalube Ring Free Plus “shock treatment” was performed on the last full tank of fuel burned during this OCI.
Notable #2: last 4 OCI have used the noted outgoing Valvoline Restore and Protect + HPL Engine Cleaner Frankenbrew
Notable #3: BG EPR treatment was performed on outgoing oil; 40-mins at 1400rpm.
Notable #4: A “rinse” oil change after the EPR treatment was performed using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 and a Fram oil filter supplemented with BG MOA; idled car for 10-minutes, then dumped the PUP and Fram for the final fill and filter.
Do you have a secondary oil cooler? My 2001 S4 has the same engine but stock it is only 6.5 quarts. I use the larger filter from the B6 A4 and I have a secondary oil cooler. Car takes about 8qts now. I had the stock oil cooler leak years ago into the coolant so I put this one in hoping it would alleviate some issues.
 
In preparation for a Minnesota winter…

Car: 2004 Audi A6 Quattro 2.7T Sport Package, 6-speed manual
Odometer: 208211 miles
OCI: ~3500 miles

Out: 7.5qts Frankenbrew of 5:1 blend of 5W-30 Valvoline Restore and Protect and HPL Engine Cleaner SAE 40.
Off: Donaldson P557780 filter

In: 7.5qts HPL 5W-20 Euro No VII PCMO
On: Mobil 1 M1-301A filter

Notable #1: Yamalube Ring Free Plus “shock treatment” was performed on the last full tank of fuel burned during this OCI.
Notable #2: last 4 OCI have used the noted outgoing Valvoline Restore and Protect + HPL Engine Cleaner Frankenbrew
Notable #3: BG EPR treatment was performed on outgoing oil; 40-mins at 1400rpm.
Notable #4: A “rinse” oil change after the EPR treatment was performed using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 and a Fram oil filter supplemented with BG MOA; idled car for 10-minutes, then dumped the PUP and Fram for the final fill and filter.
Wow that's a lot of good work on your part. Has all of this made any noticeable differences?
 
Wow that's a lot of good work on your part. Has all of this made any noticeable differences?

I think so, yes.

Observable signs are:
-The oil fill port is cleaned up considerably (no more varnish, free of carbon/sludge it had when I brought it home in April of 2024).
-Dipstick is much cleaner (but not new looking), dark varnish is gone.
-down to near Zero-(0) oil consumption during an OCI (if it is consuming oil, it is so small I can’t detect it on the dipstick with the naked eye.)
-oil cooler/oil filter mount is spotless, no more varnish or deposits.

Drivability and part throttle response is much improved (smoother and more effortless). However, unrelated to the oil changes, there is a MIL on with a low catalyst efficiency (left bank) it seems like the cat may be disintegrating and blocking flow at full throttle because compressor stall can be felt as that turbo experiences back pressure (from both exhaust side and from the compressor side (from the right bank turbo pressure)). I don’t expect an oil can fix a disintegrating catalyst…it it would be nice, though.
 
Do you have a secondary oil cooler? My 2001 S4 has the same engine but stock it is only 6.5 quarts. I use the larger filter from the B6 A4 and I have a secondary oil cooler. Car takes about 8qts now. I had the stock oil cooler leak years ago into the coolant so I put this one in hoping it would alleviate some issues.
No. A secondary oil cooler is on my short list, however.

To help explain oil capacity differences, starting in 2003 through the 2004 model year,, the A6 cars got the 265hp 2.7T BEL engine code (strengthened block). IIRC factory says 7.3qt oil capacity for the BEL. Like you, I’m using a larger filter, and 7.5qts gets to the top of the dipstick hash markings.
 
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2020 Hyundai Tucson 2.0L Nu. 6,000km on oil, approx. 43,000km on car.

Out: Pennzoil Euro 5w30 L, OEM oil filter
In: Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30, Mann oil filter

I saw a teardown on YouTube of a 2.0L Nu engine that blew up. Pistons looked pretty dirty with a lot of deposits on the rings. I don't have any consumption issues, except when it randomly drank a litre of Castrol Euro 5w30 M a few OCIs ago. Hasn't happened since, but I figure Restore and Protect might be a good idea to use. I'll try it out for the next four OCIs and cut open the filters to see if there's any cleaning being done.
 
No. A secondary oil cooler is on my short list, however.

To help explain oil capacity differences, starting in 2003 through the 2004 model year,, the A6 cars got the 265hp 2.7T BEL engine code (strengthened block). IIRC factory says 7.3qt oil capacity for the BEL. Like you, I’m using a larger filter, and 7.5qts gets to the top of the dipstick hash markings.
Have any mods? I have a full turbo back. Miltek downpipes and AWE Exhaust (the one with 2 mufflers). Also have PSS9s, AWE intercoolers, and the GIAC ECU and TCU programs. Now, with all that said I have a blown turbo (passenger side) and get cat efficiency codes. I forget which ones but it was the ones after the CAT. I have 99k on the car and haven't really driven it in 5 years with the occasional start and run, and very infrequently driving it down the road a few thousand feet and back. The brake fluid reservoir just cracked so I need to replace that. But there are tons of other things to do too. I think the N75 valve is shot too.

Bought 034 adjustable UCAs but they have been on the shelf for 7+ years.

Enjoy the car brother!
 
Have any mods? I have a full turbo back. Miltek downpipes and AWE Exhaust (the one with 2 mufflers). Also have PSS9s, AWE intercoolers, and the GIAC ECU and TCU programs. Now, with all that said I have a blown turbo (passenger side) and get cat efficiency codes. I forget which ones but it was the ones after the CAT. I have 99k on the car and haven't really driven it in 5 years with the occasional start and run, and very infrequently driving it down the road a few thousand feet and back. The brake fluid reservoir just cracked so I need to replace that. But there are tons of other things to do too. I think the N75 valve is shot too.

Bought 034 adjustable UCAs but they have been on the shelf for 7+ years.

Enjoy the car brother!
Thank you for the enjoyment wishes! She’s a great driving car.

Stock ECU (no tune), stock exhaust.

Minor mods:
AWE Intercoolers
Rebuilt 01E transmission using JHM syncros, with WaveTrak front LSD and JHM 4:1 center differential.
Rear WaveTrak Differential is purchased and sitting on a shelf.
Bilstein B6 dampers on stock springs at all 4-corners
 
2025 BMW X5 40i - B58B30M2 (B58TU2) engine
11,837 miles

Out: 7L BMW TPT LL-22FE++ 0W-12 / OEM filter
In: 7L Motul Specific LL-01FE 0W-30 / OEM filter

This is my fourth oil change at just under a year of ownership. I dumped the factory fill 0W-12 (water) at 1070 miles and replaced it with BMW TPT LL-01FE 0W-30. I then changed it at 4500 miles and used the same BMW TPT LL-01FE oil. At 10200 miles it had its first free oil change at the dealership. I asked them to use the BMW LL-01FE oil, but they refused and said they were required by BMW to use the BMW LL-22FE++ water, instead of real oil. So I ran that for the last month, but wanted to put something thicker than water in there, so changed it tonight to the Motul Specific LL-01FE 0W-30. I have been sticking with the LL-01FE oils while the car is still under warranty, as the manual lists LL-22FE++ as the preferred oil, but states the LL-01FE is also acceptable. That said, I am seriously thinking of moving to something like Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 at my next change, as I would prefer an HTHS of >3.5. However, I could also consider a Full SAPS oil since the B58TU2 has port injection, so no worry about carboned up intake valves, and it does not have a GPF on the X5.
 
2021 Toyota Highlander 3.5 AWD 2GR-FKS

134,569km

In use: ~350km

Out: Unknown Oil & Carquest Filter (by part number)

In: Valvoline Restore and Protect 0W20 & FRAM ToughGuard TG9972

New: Metal oil filter cartridge housing. Glad I took my advice and just ordered the housing beforehand as the craptastic plastic housing was leaking by whatever orangutan did the oil change. Was not an original housing, so it was obvious it had been changed recently.

Just purchased and went through the whole vehicle changing all fluids and accesible filters: oil, transmissionfer case, Rear Differential, coolant, transmission (double D&F) and brake fluid evac and flush. PCV, spark plugs, throttle body cleaning and MAF cleaning. All before sending to Krown for rust proofing.

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In preparation for a Minnesota winter…

Car: 2004 Audi A6 Quattro 2.7T Sport Package, 6-speed manual
Odometer: 208211 miles
OCI: ~3500 miles

Out: 7.5qts Frankenbrew of 5:1 blend of 5W-30 Valvoline Restore and Protect and HPL Engine Cleaner SAE 40.
Off: Donaldson P557780 filter

In: 7.5qts HPL 5W-20 Euro No VII PCMO
On: Mobil 1 M1-301A filter

Notable #1: Yamalube Ring Free Plus “shock treatment” was performed on the last full tank of fuel burned during this OCI.
Notable #2: last 4 OCI have used the noted outgoing Valvoline Restore and Protect + HPL Engine Cleaner Frankenbrew
Notable #3: BG EPR treatment was performed on outgoing oil; 40-mins at 1400rpm.
Notable #4: A “rinse” oil change after the EPR treatment was performed using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 and a Fram oil filter supplemented with BG MOA; idled car for 10-minutes, then dumped the PUP and Fram for the final fill and filter.


Was there anything noticeable during normal driving with the shock treatment of Yamalube? I’m trying to understand if it has other ingredients or just high-concentrate PEA.

I’m about to take a 1000 mile cruise in the Northstar caddy (151k) and have a couple bottles of Redline SI1 ready for back to back tanks as I like to run em when I’m doing pure highway all day. Haven’t bought Yamalube yet but will likely soon.
 
Was there anything noticeable during normal driving with the shock treatment of Yamalube? I’m trying to understand if it has other ingredients or just high-concentrate PEA.

I’m about to take a 1000 mile cruise in the Northstar caddy (151k) and have a couple bottles of Redline SI1 ready for back to back tanks as I like to run em when I’m doing pure highway all day. Haven’t bought Yamalube yet but will likely soon.

Unremarkable.

The only thing I will add is that the exhaust, at start up, had a different odor. Nothing objectionable, just “different” than the start-up exhaust smell when the fuel tank did not have the YL RF+ in it.

ETA: I like your plan for the SL1 being used on your road trip. Steady state freeway speeds for hours on end will maximize the benefits you get from the PEA.
 
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