Post Your Latest (Motorcycle) Oil Change!

[TrialKid]

What's the longest miles you've ever ran an oil?


Doubt the chain adjustment has much if any affect. I've never seen any difference in shifting after adjusting a loose chain back to proper slack.

Up down 3000km max on some SS1000 that I run in the past all with oil cooler beneath water radiator

today I change every 1500 on a small scooter I run because no oil filter and 800ml amount and on Tenere 700 every 2000 because I run on dirt roads (Motul 7100 10W60) otherwise if I not go to off road again 3000

For gearbox and smooth gearshifts mostly is the chain, never see a better gear shift because I change the oil from one brand to the other
Even on Honda that have tough gearboxes

 

[ZeeOSix]

For gearbox and smooth gearshifts mostly is the chain, never see a better gear shift because I change the oil from one brand to the other

I see the opposite. Never seen any correlation between chain slack and shifting quality. But I always keep the chain on my bikes correctly adjusted and lubed.

 

[car54]

with this crf250 shifting improved after dumping the factory fill and going to 300v. Its been fantastic ever since and I haven't adjusted the chain once yet in 5000 miles. Its getting loose but I keep it lubed with Schaeffers roller chain lube and its not bad enough to need adjustment yet

 

[Bonz]

I see the opposite. Never seen any correlation between chain slack and shifting quality. But I always keep the chain on my bikes correctly adjusted and lubed.

Agree, I have seen zero correlation between tight or slack.

A chain would really have to be out of alignment to cause issues with loading the counter shaft sprocket to put that much pressure on the gear shaft.

Up down 3000km max on some SS1000 that I run in the past all with oil cooler beneath water radiator.

3000 km correlates to about 1800 miles. That's such a short oil change interval. I would not expect the lowest performing conventional oil to fall off in shift quality in that time. That doesn't compute based on my decades of experience.

When the chain is adjusted and aligned, and oil is changed every 3000km/1800 miles, of course proper chain alignment keeps your shift quality from falling off, lol.

 

[TrialKid]

Agree, I have seen zero correlation between tight or slack.

A chain would really have to be out of alignment to cause issues with loading the counter shaft sprocket to put that much pressure on the gear shaft.



3000 km correlates to about 1800 miles. That's such a short oil change interval. I would not expect the lowest performing conventional oil to fall off in shift quality in that time. That doesn't compute based on my decades of experience.

When the chain is adjusted and aligned, and oil is changed every 3000km/1800 miles, of course proper chain alignment keeps your shift quality from falling off, lol.

What bike do you run ?

 

[Bonz]

2001 Kawasaki ZRX 1200, 140 horsepower, 87 lb/ft at the rear wheel. Engine mods increased power from stock but that's what the dyno says.

 

[TrialKid]

2001 Kawasaki ZRX 1200, 140 horsepower, 87 lb/ft at the rear wheel. Engine mods increased power from stock but that's what the dyno says.

ok

That bike is Genuine Japan and bulletproof , not extreme revving compare to other.

In all years you run it did you compare difference between the different oil brands ?

 

[Bonz]

Check out the UOA's I've posted in the last 9 years. Probably a dozen of them. So, yes, compared many oils to answer your question. Search "ZRX 1200 or ZRX1200" in the Motorcycle UOA section.

-Yes, bullet proof however nothing in common with the shifting subject being discussed, IMO.

-Help me understand "not extreme revving", maybe you do not know the ZRX1200?

Low revving may look different to you?
-ZRX stock 10,500 rpm rev limit.

-Mine has the ZX11 ECU and ignition rotor adapted to the bike, along with double valve springs from the ZX11/ZZR1200.

-Rev limit is safely upped to 11,500 rpm. ECU allows the higher rev limit, double valves springs keep it under control at that rpm.

-A 2026 Yamaha R1 (998 cc) has a rev limit of 13,500. IMO, 11,500 rpm rev limit on a 25 year old super standard that displaces 1164 cc is above the "not extreme revving" threshold.

5000 miles, usually a bit more, is almost 3x the OCI you are doing and OCI's are documented for the last 9 years. OCI's that didn't go 5,000 miles were shift quality falling off, or at different points when I first installed a set of ZZR 1200 pistons (compression 11.0 :1 vs 10.1 :1 stock) and did a shorter oci to break in or the next time when I went all the way with JE 12.5 to 1 compression pistons and again ran a shorter OCI for the first break in run.

Good discussion!

 

[TrialKid]

Check out the UOA's I've posted in the last 9 years. Probably a dozen of them. So, yes, to answer your question. Search "ZRX 1200 or ZRX1200" in the title.

-What are you getting at with respect to "not extreme revving"? Do you know the bike I have or is that a generalization?

-Yes, bullet proof however what does that have to do with the shifting we are talkng about?

Low revving must look different to you... stock 10,500 rev limit.

-Mine has the ZX11 ECU and ignition rotor adapted to the bike, along with double valve springs from the ZX11/ZZR1200.

-Rev limit is safely upped to 11,500 rpm. ECU allows the higher rev limit, double springs keep it all under control at that rpm. A 2026 Yamaha R1 (998 cc) has a rev limit of 13,500.
I'm thinking 11,500 rpm limit on a 25 year old super standard that displaces 1164 cc is above the "not extreme revving" threshold.

5000 miles is almost 3x the OCI you are doing.

Anyway, good discusdion!

So for that baby setup you run and an engine that will never break cause of low performance even with the mods you do OCI 5000 miles

Don’t pay for Mobil 1 and Redline , bike is low performance

Now back to the main subject

You refer oil = butter gearshifts

I said chain alignment

You can keep your opinion , I can keep also mine

no need to say more, boring to say about real race bikes and gearbox houses that extend the case from real race driving and thousands dollars I pay all that years

Here on BITOG exist threat about Walmart increase prices… I read it and can’t hold my belly

 

[SOUNDMAN5000]

For the FIRST TIME os OVER 27 Years I went Mobil 1 V twin Full Synthetic in a Harley Motorcycle ! And to my SURPRISE I'm Happy About it!
27 +/- years ago I had a bad ticking experience when I used Mobil 1 V twin Synthetic in my then new Harley EVO. All these years of owning many a Harley I stick to a mineral base or blend for less top end noise.

With the excessive High Heat my area of the deep South has had and so much stop and go traffic I thought its been over 25 years, perhaps M1 has made some improvements and with this outdoor temps my newer M8 bike can use all the high heat protection I can give it!

So out goes mineral Valvoline VR1 and in goes the M1 V twin 20w-50 in my 2023 Stage 2 M8 107 Street Glide at 10K miles.

To my surprise my bike loves the stuff. No new top end noises, perhaps a tiny bit more noise than the outgoing mineral Valvoline Vr1, but IF so, not enough to notice. The high zinc of the M1 V twin Synthetic made me feel better about things...

M1 V twin may become my new engine oil in the newer bikes but I will still use Bel-Ray Primary and trans fluid in my 2023 and I will continue mineral Bel-Ray engine oil in my 30 year old Heritage EVO.

 

[Bonz]

@TrialKid,

You made the segway and the transition from oil and shifting to chain alignment. Don't run away when the discussion doesn't necessarily line up with what you say. That's okay, different strokes for different folks.

What's your thought on shaft drive bikes, where shift quality falls off over the course of an oil change interval? I have two of those.

-How is shift quality drop off, in your opinion, related to only chain alignment when there's no chain.

What is your definition of an engine that is high revving.
-Yamaha R1 would be a baby set up as well?

You talk about low revving, can you put a number to it, so there's better understanding.

You have a Tenere 700 and a scooter correct?

 

[Bonz]

For the FIRST TIME os OVER 27 Years I went Mobil 1 V twin Full Synthetic in a Harley Motorcycle ! And to my SURPRISE I'm Happy About it!
27 +/- years ago I had a bad ticking experience when I used Mobil 1 V twin Synthetic in my then new Harley EVO. All these years of owning many a Harley I stick to a mineral base or blend for less top end noise.

With the excessive High Heat my area of the deep South has had and so much stop and go traffic I thought its been over 25 years, perhaps M1 has made some improvements and with this outdoor temps my newer M8 bike can use all the high heat protection I can give it!

So out goes mineral Valvoline VR1 and in goes the M1 V twin 20w-50 in my 2023 Stage 2 M8 107 Street Glide at 10K miles.

To my surprise my bike loves the stuff. No new top end noises, perhaps a tiny bit more noise than the outgoing mineral Valvoline Vr1, but IF so, not enough to notice. The high zinc of the M1 V twin Synthetic made me feel better about things...

M1 V twin may become my new engine oil in the newer bikes but I will still use Bel-Ray Primary and trans fluid in my 2023 and I will continue mineral Bel-Ray engine oil in my 30 year old Heritage EVO.

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View attachment 350785

Good work, way to get out of the comfort zone and find something that works for you. M1 20w50 V-Twin is good oil and versatile.

IMO/IME, works great in many bike styles not just Harley's/V-Twins.

The great price is icing on the cake, and experience as proven boutique oils don't do any better.

To be clear, boutique oils don't do worse either however experience and numbers tell the story, not bench racing which it seems from time to time is where debate is coming from.

 

[TrialKid]

M1 20w50 V-Twin is good oil and versatile.

Works great in any bike not just Harley's/V-Twins.

The great price is icing on the cake, and experience as proven boutique oils don't do any better. To be clear, they don't do worse either however experience and numbers tell the story, not bench racing which we see a lot.

I understand

This one 15/50 Mobil1 use same formulation as 20/50 V-Twin ?

Is the only I can find in Greece close to 23$/1litre to your currency

 

[Bonz]

We do not have 15w50 4T over here in the states. I would suspect it is more like the 10w40 4T racing in additive package than it is the 20w50 V-Twin.

15w50 4T has basically the same zinc and phosphorus has 10w40 4T racing. I'm not saying that is an exact comparison but they seem pretty similar. As well, it matches up real closely with the standard 15w50 non motorcycle oil.

My thought would be more robust and durable base oils that help resist viscosity loss for the motorcycle version.

 

[TrialKid]

We do not have 15w50 4T over here in the states. I would suspect it is more like the 10w40 4T racing in additive package than it is the 20w50 V-Twin.

15w50 4T has basically the same zinc and phosphorus has 10w40 4T racing. I'm not saying that is an exact comparison but they seem pretty similar. As well, it matches up real closely with the standard 15w50 non motorcycle oil.

My thought would be more robust and durable base oils that help resist viscosity loss for the motorcycle version.

Can’t find the 10/40 Racing version only 15/50 Racing

NOVITRON Greece only 15/50 import and a lower specs 10/40 called Extra 4T for motorcycle

 

[TrialKid]

@TrialKid,

You made the segway and the transition from oil and shifting to chain alignment. Don't run away when the discussion doesn't necessarily line up with what you say. That's okay, different strokes for different folks.

What's your thought on shaft drive bikes, where shift quality falls off over the course of an oil change interval? I have two of those.

-How is shift quality drop off, in your opinion, related to only chain alignment when there's no chain.

What is your definition of an engine that is high revving.
-Yamaha R1 would be a baby set up as well?

You talk about low revving, can you put a number to it, so there's better understanding.

You have a Tenere 700 and a scooter correct?

Was out for coffee and miss that post

Hi revving I start say real zone under 14.000rpm

the only Hi revving bike own and still working until today in my garage is one HONDA CB250F Hornet 16.000rpm gear driven camshafts

previously for some years I run on SS400 championship (rules was 400cc 4T & 250 2T production bikes (not HONDA RS250 or similar) was a Kawasaki ZXR400R (ZX400M VIN) rev limiter on spark plugs 15.200rpm with the Mitsubishi CDI that also offer TPS connection for the Keihin FCR carbs from the factory (evolution that time)

a YAMAHA R6 2012 model with GYTR ECU close to 16.000rpm (15.800) for private track use

SUZUKI GSXR K4 was the most expensive bike ever buy and hold over my life with all the YOSHIMURA race kit (JSB specs) 14.200-14.500rpm (useful until 13.500) only for the straight lines of the track

other Hi revving bikes never owned

I ride once on UK a BSB Kawasaki ZX7RR engine specs (A) with gear driven camshafts (close to 15.000 clock says, don’t open it so Hi bike cost a small apartment)

Today I see Ducati V4R with 16.500 and say like GoKart

I don’t want to insult you and if you take it like this

I apologise

Just I have some bikes over my mind

YAMAHA Tenere 700 I run now is complete stock not a single change same HONDA SH150 for the city