Possibly warped rims?

[Brandon1023]

Yesterday, I changed the brakes on my ram 1500 and replaced all 4 rotors. Put it all together and went for a ride to break them in and everything was fine. When I got on the highway, around 80 I could feel a vibration in the gas pedal that I don't believe was there before. The tire shop that worked on the truck before, tightened the lugs ridiculously tight and I even broke a socket removing one.

My question is.. Could they have tightened them to the point where the rims warped and I feel it now that they're not torqued as tight? I can't thank

 

[Lubener]

When I had bent rims, they showed their symptoms at low speeds. At higher speeds, the vibrations settled down. I would suspect a balance issue with a tire. They could have enlarged the holes for the lug nuts, especially if you have aluminum wheels.

 

[supton]

I don't think so. I suspect it is more likely that one of the rotors isn't flat on the hub it mounts to, or that a wheel is likewise not flat to the disc.

 

[Brandon1023]

I don't think so. I suspect it is more likely that one of the rotors isn't flat on the hub it mounts to, or that a wheel is likewise not flat to the disc.

OK cool I'll have to get back in and check it out. Would I have to remove the caliper mount again to adjust the rotor?

 

[supton]

I would remove the caliper bracket, all the hard work is already done by then (jacked up, on stands, wheel removed), four more bolts and you can "start over". For all the work involved might as well check.

That you feel it in the gas pedal makes me think to start in the rear and after doing both wheels, take it for a test drive, before tackling the fronts--you might get lucky and it's just one of the rears.

 

[Brandon1023]

I should add that when doing one of the rear, I put it all back together and the wheel was locked up when I tried putting it in gear ( lifted the truck from the rear axle with jack stands.) and it was bound up. I suspected it was the parking brake binding, so I took that apart again and it was fine. Don't know if this would affect anything.

 

[supton]

Actually... it could be related. When I had a rear caliper seize on me, it did something similar, where the rear of the truck would shake. It was very odd.

I would take it for a short spin, several miles, and then check to see if you have a dragging brake. You may have it all put together correctly, but if the caliper is dragging for any reason, the brake could be getting grabby.

I think some of the members in northern states have had problems with the e-brake on RAM's?

 

[Brandon1023]

Ok I'll have to get back in there when I have some time. I live in Miami, so the ebrake should be fine haha.

 

[JohnnyG]

Ok I'll have to get back in there when I have some time. I live in Miami, so the ebrake should be fine haha.

Yeah, unless it was applied for the first time in 6 years and stuck there!
Calipers tend to stick when they are pushed back into the bore to make way for the new pads.

 

[Brandon1023]

Yeah, unless it was applied for the first time in 6 years and stuck there!
Calipers tend to stick when they are pushed back into the bore to make way for the new pads.

I did have to push the pistons back in quite a bit. I'm just gonna take everything back apart in a bit and see what's going on. Thank you everyone again and again for the replies.

Edit: Upon doing this job yesterday, I realized the front wheel hub bearings don't spin too smoothly with the wheel off and make a bit of a metallic sound when you spin them. I know they need to be replaced soon but I don't know why therewould be a noticeable vibration after doing the brakes.

 

[Dave9]

Although it could be the brakes, I would not dismiss the possibility that it is the rim becoming warped from some careless shop monkey using a torque wrench to overtighten each lug nut completely before moving onto the next one. This is potentially an example of a reason not to do that. Easy enough to check, put the rim on a different location and see if the vibration moves with it, but then also move it back to confirm vibration moves back too in case it was a mounting issue.

 

[odie]

Have similar issue as O.P. . We have heavy vibration and noise when braking . Especially when at the end of an descent . Seems like the front discs are warped and could be the culprit . These are original rotors with 24,000+ miles on an '18 Accent . Possibly due to overtightened lugs over the years .

 

[Brandon1023]

Although it could be the brakes, I would not dismiss the possibility that it is the rim becoming warped from some careless shop monkey using a torque wrench to overtighten each lug nut completely before moving onto the next one. This is potentially an example of a reason not to do that. Easy enough to check, put the rim on a different location and see if the vibration moves with it, but then also move it back to confirm vibration moves back too in case it was a mounting issue.

That's what I'm thinking. For all we know, they tightened it in a circular sequence as well because I've seen that done at the Lexus/Toyota dealership I used to work at. This is actually my brother's truck and he's about to bring it back to my house.

As they say.. No good deed goes unpunished

 

[benjy]

does your brake pedal pulse when applied? how about the rear when if possible put on a little parking brake? brakes are surely very important + not a hard DIY with some tools as finding a good fair priced shop is not always EZE!! lots of tips on-line if you have the time to check things out!

 

[JohnnyG]

Just go for a short drive first, maybe 5 miles or so. When you get back, put your hand NEAR each brake disk or wheel itself. If one or more feel hotter that the others, there's your issue. I personally use a digital laser thermometer to check brake temps. You know, the GUN type like checking for Covid.

 

[Trav]

If these are aluminum rims make sure the back of them where they touch the rotor is spotlessly clean also. What happens sometimes is corrosion build up between the rim and rotor and when you put it back on the buildup is either in a different place or on a new surface.

 

[Brandon1023]

I left out a very important detail I forgot. Each rotor took a few poundings with a sledge hammer to get it off the hub. What are the chances I damaged the wheel bearings? Because that's what it feels like around 80-90 mph

 

[supton]

Well, hitting it with a hammer won't help... maybe you did? IME a bad bearing makes noise before it gets loose, I suppose every bearing failure could be different.

I thought things didn't rust in Florida?

 

[Brandon1023]

Well, hitting it with a hammer won't help... maybe you did? IME a bad bearing makes noise before it gets loose, I suppose every bearing failure could be different.

I thought things didn't rust in Florida?

Haha it's my brother's truck and there was quite a bit of rust on the rotors and drive shaft. I suspect maybe the truck came from a northern state

 

[Brandon1023]

Actually... it could be related. When I had a rear caliper seize on me, it did something similar, where the rear of the truck would shake. It was very odd.

I would take it for a short spin, several miles, and then check to see if you have a dragging brake. You may have it all put together correctly, but if the caliper is dragging for any reason, the brake could be getting grabby.

I think some of the members in northern states have had problems with the e-brake on RAM's?

That's one issue it seems. When I spin both rear wheels, I can hear either the parking brake shoes and maybe the pads too. I checked the hub for run out with a dial indicator on the driver side and there's 0.010" of run out