Possibly burning oil?

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Hi all,
Recently noticed my Ford Escape 2.5L I4 dipstick level has been down below the full mark lately. This is usually not the case , use to always be right at the full mark. Has almost 85k on it and I've using Super tech FS currently, and motorcraft blend in the past. Time to switch to a high mileage? No leaks either. Looking for ideas for what oil you suggest .
 
Try a new PCV valve first.

Then, if that does not help, maybe Maxlife blend (red bottle) and cruise on
smile.gif
 
Wouldn't worry.

It's a Ford.

Sounds like you have used lower tier oils in the past. No need to change now since you've got it using oil already.
 
BrocLuno is spot on. Try a new PCV valve. Did this start just recently? I would doublecheck for leaks. Any smoke out the back?
 
Your question is so vague, to offer suggestions is pure speculation. How much consumption / miles?????
 
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Originally Posted By: Lubener
Your question is so vague, to offer suggestions is pure speculation. How much consumption / miles?????

I came to this forum for help with my question which others besides you have helped with . To say my question was vaugue is quite the not so intelligent thing to say due to the fact I am coming here to seek help on something I don't know about. You act as if I am a witness in a trial with words like vaugue and speculation? It's an oil forum not a witness stand . To the others thank you.
 
I can give you a little advice-watch out for sludge in that engine! Good friend had a 2.5 Escape since new that had oil changes neglected, timing chain jumped time & took out valves & pistons, it was sent to the boneyard with under 100K. As long as you're not you're not burning over a quart per 1000 miles, I wouldn't be too concerned, just keep it topped up, those little Duratec 4 cylinders get a workout.
 
Originally Posted By: Oilied
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Your question is so vague, to offer suggestions is pure speculation. How much consumption / miles?????

I came to this forum for help with my question which others besides you have helped with . To say my question was vaugue is quite the not so intelligent thing to say due to the fact I am coming here to seek help on something I don't know about. You act as if I am a witness in a trial with words like vaugue and speculation? It's an oil forum not a witness stand . To the others thank you.


Lubener's question was not threatening as you seem to think. What exactly is the consumption? Without that I agree your post is vague. It really depends on how much oil it is using per unit of distance, as bullwinkle mentioned. A lot of things can affect consumption.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Oilied
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Your question is so vague, to offer suggestions is pure speculation. How much consumption / miles?????

I came to this forum for help with my question which others besides you have helped with . To say my question was vaugue is quite the not so intelligent thing to say due to the fact I am coming here to seek help on something I don't know about. You act as if I am a witness in a trial with words like vaugue and speculation? It's an oil forum not a witness stand . To the others thank you.


Lubener's question was not threatening as you seem to think. What exactly is the consumption? Without that I agree your post is vague. It really depends on how much oil it is using per unit of distance, as bullwinkle mentioned. A lot of things can affect consumption.


Agreed. Is it a few ounces in 5k miles or is it 3 quarts in 1k miles. You didn't define it's usage so everyone is left to speculate.

By the sounds of it, it's just a few ounces- and if it is, then carry on and don't worry.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Sorry it's vague but I'm new to this and don't know some of the things to ask that your looking for. Car isn't blowing blue smoke. It's been about 2500k since i changed the oil and noticed this consumption
 
So where about on the dipstick is it reading? If between full and low markers after 2500 miles, that's maybe a 1/2 quart? So in my Aussie conversion that's .5L in 4000kms. Not much if it's that much. You'll have to confirm.

Keep an eye on consumption each week. Sometimes the usage can escalate as you do more miles. It's not linear. I had no usage in my car for 4000kms then it ate up 1.5L in about 1500kms. Always keep an eye on it.

That's what I'd do. Keep looking and estimate how much you need to top off. Get a ball park figure and then decide if it's time for different oil and action to be taken.
 
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I'll definitely keep an eye out for sludge but I've been very good with oil changes every 5k so hopefully it's not sludging up. You are correct about the 4 cylinders and how much of a workout they get that's for sure. So underpowered for an SUV. I feel like accelerating is a chore .

As far as the other question about how low it exactly is, I'd say about 1/4 of the way down from the top full mark, maybe a tad more towards the bottom. Someone suggested pyb conventional. Could you please explain why this would help? I thought FS was "better"
Thanks everyone
 
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I thought you were trying to keep cost low but fs stands for full synthetic so then can try pp or qsud and forget pyb. My ford expy drinks more oil on long highway runs than city and short hwy runs. So gather more data. No reason to panic. My expy has drank a lot of oil since new and 18 years later still runs strong.
 
Somewhere here is a lit of TLA's (three letter acronyms) that are commonly used on BITOG.

At 85,000 miles that little Ford 4 banger is accumulating some wear. Not excessive by any means, but it is approaching the mid-life segment of it's time here. I've never seen that engine go 300,000 - but maybe I just missed the ones that did ...

Saying that, I'd do as the others suggest. Top it off and then start keeping track of mileage to next top-off. My guess from the way things are described is that it'll be about 1 qt in 2,500 miles. Or one top-off per oil change period ... Could be more or less, but that's my first guess ...

Not out of the norm for that little banger. Look carefully around the motor with a flash light. You may see some shiny areas. Or dark areas with wet dust. Slow seeps that only really drop oil here and there occasionally. Also not out of the ordinary.

So some going by the original PCV valve, some weeping, and the odd drop thrown off the front or rear crank seal and you have your consumption. Entirely normal.

What to do? Well, you can switch over to Valvoline Maxlife syn-blend (red bottle) in a 5w30 at the next change. If you have it done in a shop, just take you own oil with you. It's good oil in it's own right. and it has some additives that help with gasket and seal pliability. It has helped many folks slow, or stop their oil consumption.

For 5,000 mile oil changes, any good well made conventional oil will work just fine. Full synthetic is usually for folks either hammering on their motors (track days and "spirited" driving), or for those that want to extend their oil changes. There is no professionally published evidence that we can find that says that FS is actually better at lubricating anything. It's still just motor oil, not magic fluid ...

There are good premium conventional oils like say Chevron Supreme that will lubricate and clean as well as many full synthetics and stand up to 6,000 mile oil changes just fine. So well within your parameters.

You might also want to try adding a can of BG109 (EPR) to your engine as it's down a bit. 109 will slowly take accumulated varnish off moving parts and free up any ring deposits that might be allowing some minor burning. It'll mostly flash off by the time you do the next oil change. But it will have done it's work. An occasional treatment is good as motors start to get closer to 100,000 miles
smile.gif
 
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Great advice thank you so much you have some great insight about my car and the oil. I think I might give a good conventional oil a try since like you said it's a a little 4 banger and not a turbo for the race track. Thanks again well written
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Somewhere here is a lit of TLA's (three letter acronyms) that are commonly used on BITOG.

At 85,000 miles that little Ford 4 banger is accumulating some wear. Not excessive by any means, but it is approaching the mid-life segment of it's time here. I've never seen that engine go 300,000 - but maybe I just missed the ones that did ...

Saying that, I'd do as the others suggest. Top it off and then start keeping track of mileage to next top-off. My guess from the way things are described is that it'll be about 1 qt in 2,500 miles. Or one top-off per oil change period ... Could be more or less, but that's my first guess ...

Not out of the norm for that little banger. Look carefully around the motor with a flash light. You may see some shiny areas. Or dark areas with wet dust. Slow seeps that only really drop oil here and there occasionally. Also not out of the ordinary.

So some going by the original PCV valve, some weeping, and the odd drop thrown off the front or rear crank seal and you have your consumption. Entirely normal.

What to do? Well, you can switch over to Valvoline Maxlife syn-blend (red bottle) in a 5w30 at the next change. If you have it done in a shop, just take you own oil with you. It's good oil in it's own right. and it has some additives that help with gasket and seal pliability. It has helped many folks slow, or stop their oil consumption.

For 5,000 mile oil changes, any good well made conventional oil will work just fine. Full synthetic is usually for folks either hammering on their motors (track days and "spirited" driving), or for those that want to extend their oil changes. There is no professionally published evidence that we can find that says that FS is actually better at lubricating anything. It's still just motor oil, not magic fluid ...

There are good premium conventional oils like say Chevron Supreme that will lubricate and clean as well as many full synthetics and stand up to 6,000 mile oil changes just fine. So well within your parameters.

You might also want to try adding a can of BG109 (EPR) to your engine as it's down a bit. 109 will slowly take accumulated varnish off moving parts and free up any ring deposits that might be allowing some minor burning. It'll mostly flash off by the time you do the next oil change. But it will have done it's work. An occasional treatment is good as motors start to get closer to 100,000 miles
smile.gif
 
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