Portaband + Swag table for multi-media bandsaw?

[JHZR2]

Ive been interested in a small bandsaw for a variety of minor projects. Every so often I need to cut steel or aluminum as well. Ive happened upon a deal for a portaband saw that is lightly used. It would fit in a swag off-road table. What are the downsides of going this route? Note I never really wanted a $500-1000 floor standing bandsaw. I was looking at the $200ish smaller and weaker models. This would cost a little more in total, but would yield a 10A machine, smaller work area, but the ability to cut metal from a pro-grade machine. Would a 10tpi blade cut wood well? Do they make dedicated wood blades for portaband saws (44 7/8" or something like that)? Any other considerations? Thanks!

 

[Balrog006]

I'd been strongly considering this option to replace an abrasive chop saw but I decided against it. I'll keep looking for a floor model bandsaw. I shopped and watched vids of them and have no clue how any cutting could possibly be done on any square, rectangular, round, or any type of tube on any angle. There is no clamp and absolutely no way to get the saw to bite on the side of a tube held by hand on an angle, it would simply skip down the side and never get cut accurately. Plus, how would one maintain that angle while cutting even if you could start a cut? In short, they have no clamps foe the material being cut and no angle guide that is maintained during a cut, so they are next to useless IMHO.

 

[spasm3]

Would this be something that would fit your needs? A bit bigger but a good brand. Not sure how far away from you this is. https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/tls/d/jet-14-1hp-bandsaw-very-good/6322368315.html

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Balrog006

I'd been strongly considering this option to replace an abrasive chop saw but I decided against it. I'll keep looking for a floor model bandsaw. I shopped and watched vids of them and have no clue how any cutting could possibly be done on any square, rectangular, round, or any type of tube on any angle. There is no clamp and absolutely no way to get the saw to bite on the side of a tube held by hand on an angle, it would simply skip down the side and never get cut accurately. Plus, how would one maintain that angle while cutting even if you could start a cut? In short, they have no clamps foe the material being cut and no angle guide that is maintained during a cut, so they are next to useless IMHO.

Let's pull the thread on this a bit. Id expect that a bandsaw is never the right tool for doing exact mitre cuts on metal. Id expect an abrasive blade on a mitre chip saw would be the appropriate tool for that. Everything I know and have seen for band saws indicate that you take radiused relief cuts, multiple small ones at that, not big exact angles. So in your case might it be a matter of wrong tool for the job? I can see it being good for 90 degree cuts only on wood.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: spasm3

Would this be something that would fit your needs? A bit bigger but a good brand. Not sure how far away from you this is. https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/tls/d/jet-14-1hp-bandsaw-very-good/6322368315.html

Something like that is an option, but it's much bigger and heavier than I'd like. I really don't care for that much shop footprint for the small things I like to do. The portaband goes in a case and the swag base tucks away or unbolts. And since I can get the portaband lightly used cheap, I'm not in for much more than that.

 

[Balrog006]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2

Originally Posted By: Balrog006

I'd been strongly considering this option to replace an abrasive chop saw but I decided against it. I'll keep looking for a floor model bandsaw. I shopped and watched vids of them and have no clue how any cutting could possibly be done on any square, rectangular, round, or any type of tube on any angle. There is no clamp and absolutely no way to get the saw to bite on the side of a tube held by hand on an angle, it would simply skip down the side and never get cut accurately. Plus, how would one maintain that angle while cutting even if you could start a cut? In short, they have no clamps foe the material being cut and no angle guide that is maintained during a cut, so they are next to useless IMHO.

Let's pull the thread on this a bit. Id expect that a bandsaw is never the right tool for doing exact mitre cuts on metal. Id expect an abrasive blade on a mitre chip saw would be the appropriate tool for that. Everything I know and have seen for band saws indicate that you take radiused relief cuts, multiple small ones at that, not big exact angles. So in your case might it be a matter of wrong tool for the job? I can see it being good for 90 degree cuts only on wood.

Are you talking Portabands or floor model swing arm band saws? Every floor model swing arm band saw I have ever looked at specs for states it’s width x height capacity at 90 degrees and at max angle be it 30 or 45 degrees. With their on board clamps/vise for materials and either angling clamping or cutting heads they are all capable and in my experience seeing them used in a shop setting, excellent for straight and angled cuts of numerous profiles of material stock. Now the industrial versions do usually only cut at 90 degrees, but I’m talking about a JET, Kalamazoo, or Bailegh, type home hobby to light fab type.

 

[JHZR2]

I'm talking about a portabands. Ive used a swing arm band saw to cut unistrut at 90, but I'm interested in portabands. Specifically a portaband mounted in a table like this:

 

[Balrog006]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2

I'm talking about a portabands. Ive used a swing arm band saw to cut unistrut at 90, but I'm interested in portabands. Specifically a portaband mounted in a table like this:

You asked for downsides in your OP, I explained in more detail in my first reply but in summary “In short, they have no clamps for the material being cut and no angle guide that is maintained during a cut, so they are next to useless IMHO.” You MAY be able to make 90degree cuts or freehand angles or curves but for precision work I’d look elsewhere.

 

[JHZR2]

But your response if im not mistaken, is specific to cutting metal, right? I don't own a bandsaw and have limited experience with them. Obviously people have some way to use them for wood...

 

[Balrog006]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2

But your response if im not mistaken, is specific to cutting metal, right? I don't own a bandsaw and have limited experience with them. Obviously people have some way to use them for wood...

Correct as your original question mentioned cutting steel and aluminum, and I am not aware of a blade available for such portabands for cutting wood. Upright bandsaws and small tabletop styles with thin blades are meant for it yes, but not Milwaukee or Dewalt style hand held portabands

 

[TMoto]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2

Would a 10tpi blade cut wood well?

The optimum tpi or pitch is determined by the thickness of the material being cut. http://www.starrett.com/docs/saw-resources/blade-selection-in-five-steps.pdf?sfvrsn=2

Quote:

Do they make dedicated wood blades for portaband saws (44 7/8" or something like that)?

For wood, a carbon steel flexback type blade is sufficient but I'm not sure if they have those ready made for portabands. I'm also not sure if there's a reason they couldn't be used on a portaband. A bimetal blade will be readily available off-the-shelf for a portaband and should last a long time in wood though. Blades for industrial band saws are commonly cut and welded to length per order so I don't see any reason why a local weld center couldn't make some up for you in a flexback material if bimetal is cost prohibitive. Any industrial distributor in your area that sells band saws and/or band saw blades should be able to help you. 44-7/8 x ½" is common. I don't have any experience with your idea but it looks like a cool idea for a home shop.

 

[Fitter30]

big downside of port a band is the width of the material 5" or wider will hit the throat of the tool and the blade does have a tendency to twist a little whey forced and not cut straight.