popping the dying in old snowblower w/Briggs

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My trusty snowblower that I have had for 1 month ran like a champ until today. Now when it gets hot it starts popping then finally dies. I had a new plug so I installed it and found old one loose. Funny I tried to loosen the old one a month ago and could not, so I sprayed some PB Blaster and never got back to it.
I also thought maybe the choke lever was rattling down to full on, so I tightened that screw. I wiped the glass fuel bowl a month ago, pretty clean. The fuel is stabilized with stuff from HD that deals with stabilizing and alcohol and the gas was bought in the fall of last year.

I fooled with the mixture awhile ago and got it running a lot better than at first. But back then it ran rough but no popping, but now popping.

Ideas?
 
well if runs til warm then dies, then cools off starts back up then runs til warm then dies, my guess would be a bad coil/magneto, or points condenser related issue, but since its sat outside so much, id sure clean the flywheel of any rust as a starting point
 
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A glass fuel bowl sounds real 50-ish to me , not just a mere 20yrs old. Popping through the exhaust is too rich a mixture or a weak spark ( bad coil)
 
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
well if runs til warm then dies, then cools off starts back up then runs til warm then dies, my guess would be a bad coil/magneto, or points condenser related issue, but since its sat outside so much, id sure clean the flywheel of any rust as a starting point


Can I just pull the recoil starter and clean the rust? Or do I need to pull the flywheel?

If it ends up being the coil, can I even get a replacement given its many years old?
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
So what year, a 1970?

Model = 170402
Type = 0644 01
Code = 7007271

yep, the first 2 digits of code = yr, as to cleaning flywheel i believe you can just remove the blower housing and accsess alot of the flywheel and turn by hand (i hope) to clean the rest
 
someone mentioned sitting outside a long time-not sure where he picked that up from th OP, but I revived an 82 Briggs which sat untouched in a shed for years. The mice had made a home inside the cowling, and in the process chewed the ignition wire right through. I think you've got ignition issues. From 1970 would be a points ignition system-could be a bad crank seal letting oil or oil mist enter the ignition housing. Ot if your'e lucky a simple points/condensor issue. Parts should be readily available

Steve
 
Yes, while its old, I am not sure it sat outside that often. The
key here is that it runs fine for 15 minutes then the popping starts for 3-4 minutes then it dies. At this point in checking it out, if I wait until it cools down, then it will start fine and then same popping sound after 15 minutes.

I would say it has to be the coil. Replacing that means pulling the flywheel right? Not hard but its very cold around the Albany NY area where I live and garage is not heated.
 
its the coil... sorry i did bring an yard broom alive full throttle at 6k yes 6k rpm 1961 briggs aluminum motor read it up on old briggs before digging in. the flywheel is tricky cuz u can break it in half and s.o.l. of 300 dollars if u can find 1
 
Did you have a tachometer on that engine? A Briggs will not rev that high, valves float at 4500, points float, flywheel blower resistance and the flywheel would likely have come apart killing anything in its path. at the very best, maybe 5k if nothing was on the pto.

Now, the backfiring is likely caused by, in order; a dirty carb, does it improve if you apply some choke? if not, move on to ignition. pull plug and observe spark, it should be a nice blue color, of not you will need to check wires for damage, ensure there is no rust buildup on the outside of the flywheel causing the gap to close at the coil, if needed pull the flywheel and check points. it is not hard, you can purchase a puller at AutoZone or Napa. if you have something to heat the flywheel where it meets the crank, it will come off much easier. Next check for a stuck valve, loose valve seat or broken valve spring.

By the symptoms you describe, my first guess whould be the coil. its running OK when cold so the points are probably fine, however, heat will affect the coil causing the symptoms you have.
 
OK, tonight I ran it for about an hour (in the dark) snowblowing and it did not do any popping/or die. I am now confused. I have the part numbers and prices for the coil, etc, but am now not sure if I have a problem.
 
I'd replace the condenser, re-gap the points, and replace the spark plug. People always want to say the coil is bad, but that is an extraordinarily rare failure. Re adjust the fuel mix, too.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Bad condenser can be temperature related problem.

You can use an un-lit propane torch to check fuel mixture.


Tell me more about the unlit torch check?

I have replaced the plug.

I will try setting the mixture again when its totally warmed up.
 
Regarding using an un-lit propane torch to check the fuel mixture.

First, when you are doing this you must disable any governor.

On a X Y graph, Draw fuel lean or rich on the bottom X line(so very lean is 0 and very rich is far to the right (a high value on X axis)), and draw RPMs on the vertical Y line so very low RPMs are near 0 and very high RPMs are high on the Y axis. Visualize, or draw a curve shaped like a mountain with the Y peak about half way down the X axis.

You will require some means to measure the RPMs of the engine. Some simply use there ear (hearing protection is a real good idea, you are going to be running the engine for a while, and you will be near it).

You can use the propane method to set idle and high end on the carburetor. Set the throttle to the end of the scale you will be working with (idle for idle, high RPMs for main adjust), and leave it at that setting while you are using the propane to test lean or rich, and if adjusting the carburetor, and then re-testing with propane, until you get it to where you are satisfied with the setting.

There are some sites on the internet that give information on how to do this. One recommends that in order to be consistent, you first light the torch, and adjust the flame to about one inch. Then you leave gas valve set for that level of flame and extinguish the flame (usually by placing the tip against the ground for a brief time).

To find out if your engine is running lean or rich, you simply place the un-lit torch tip with the gas coming out at the rate that would make a one inch flame (if it were lit, but it is not lit) near the air intake for the air filter, so that the gas is sucked in the air cleaner along with the air going in while the engine (fully warmed up) is running.

When you do that you have substituted some gas (fuel) for some of the air the engine would normally be getting, and as a result you have increased the fuel mixture temporarily. What is nice about doing it this way is that you have not had to adjust anything on the carburetor to do this. The RPMs will change, either increase, or decrease. If they increase, then the engine was running lean and your engine is running on the left side of the peak of the mountain curve.

If the RPMs decrease when you add the propane, then the engine was running rich and it is on the right side of the mountain curve.

The RPMs of the engine will follow the curve of the mountain. If you start out on the lean side (if you engine is set lean), and increase the fuel in the mix(by adding propane in place of air), the RPMs will increase with an increase in fuel. If you are on the lean side, the increase in RPMs will continue as you add more propane, until you reach a peak. After the peak, if you increase the fuel, the RPMs will fall off.

Ideally you want the engine to be just a very slight amount on the lean side of the peak. It would be nice if the RPMs would increase about 20 or so RPMs as you begin to add some propane, and if you add more propane (get the un-lit torch tip closer to the air intake), the RPMs would stop increasing (be at the peak in the mountain curve), and with even more propane the RPMs would drop (because the engine is now rich in fuel).

There are other examples of how to use a propane torch to check or set the fuel mixture of a carburetor on some sites on the internet. You could google it and read them if you require more information on how to do this.
 
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