Polyurethane suggestions

[Hokiefyd]

I am restoring a 5-board bench that my dad built 20 years ago. It's been in our attic for the last 10. It's been completely sanded and stained. I'm now applying the protective layers. I started with the bottom. I've had decent luck with the oil-based Minwax before, but for some reason, the wood is really taking the product into the grain. I've applied three coats to the bottom and it has, at best, just a satin sheen at this point.

I've also got Deft in a can, but I'm thinking that I shouldn't apply that on top of the Minwax. Fortunately, none of the top surfaces are coated yet, so I could use that Deft on the top.

Any recommendations for a product that would lay on top of the Minwax (compatible with it), but also have a much higher viscosity. I guess the oil analogy here is I've laid down some 0W-20 and I'm looking for a compatible 20W-50 to lay on top of it.

 

[Astro14]

I wouldn't use that analogy...

What kind of Minwax? Poly? What sheen?

If the base layer is polyurethane, then you need to let it dry for several days, then sand (320 grit to give the new finish a tooth for adherence) and coat.

But the Minwax should provide all the protection you need...I am not following what you mean by higher viscosity...you want a surface coating (polyurethane) vs. a penetrating finish (Danish oil), right?

Personally, I would stick with one brand, one system, for this bench. It's been stained, you're just finishing...

 

[loyd]

I'm not really familiar with Minwax, but, I'd go to their website and see what I could find about their products.

p.s. Minwax has an oil-based poly.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Thanks; let me clarify.

Yes, I am using an oil-based polyurethane from Minwax, in semi-gloss sheen. It does pour like water from the can into my application container. I was hoping that a thicker product would lay on thicker.

I've been working on this for many weeks now. I've done three coats now, with 320-grit abrasive paper between, and the polyurethane really continues to soak into the wood...much more than I'm used to. The Minwax can suggests three coats for maximum protection. So far, three coats has produced what I expected from one heavy coat. I guess I'll stay the course and see how it turns out.

 

[andyd]

This going on pine? Also a piece of furniture baking and freezing in an attic must be really dried out. I used Minwax stains when I was into dark pine trim. But I went for a better line of ureathane for protection. There is way better stuff out there. If it is all oil based , wipe it down with paint thinner, and, scuff the surface up a little , wipe it down and let it dry.

 

[doitmyself]

Something really seems amiss here. It almost seems that you have a can of bad product with very little resin in it. I actually THIN (a lot) Minwax varnish for my wood projects.

Three coats of Minwax polyurethane varnish should result in a very thick, plastic-like finish similar to a gymnasium floor. I actually don't like this type of final appearance for most of my projects.

One of my current favorite quick and dirty finishes for somewhat nice wood projects is a wipe-on varnish. I make my own by diluting regular varnish approximately 50:50. I then wipe on about 3 to 8 "coats" depending on the wood type and my desired outcome. This finish soaks in deep and then you can build it up as much (or as little) as you like.

The wood finish marketing/labeling is really messed up. Most of the wipe-on products labeled as "Tung Oil" wiping finish, etc. are actually just diluted regular varnish. Danish oils, etc. are mostly not what they appear to be.

If anyone cares, here is an excellent treatise on wipe-on varnishes by guru Bob Flexner:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/the_basics_of_wiping_varnish2

Back on topic regarding the OP. I would not mix brands unless you know their composition. For instance, DEFT makes a brush on lacquer that might not be compatible to your project.

 

[dave123]

Finish what you have started and spray the top if you can with a 2K poly.

 

[Kestas]

If the grain texture showing through is a problem, you should have used grain filler. It's too late now.

 

[sleddriver]

I just restored and refinished a large telescope built of Baltic-Birch plywood and used multiple coats of oil-based poly to finish it. The face veneers of the ply are quite hard, so little of the finish soaks in. I didn't see in your replies what type of wood you're bench is made of. From your description, it sounds quite porous & soft.

"Taking the product into the grain.." Are you talking end grain? Is this bench built with the end grain facing up, like a big butcher block? Or does the grain run parallel to the long axis or length of the bench?

For this case, let's assume the later. Oil-based poly is a film finish and as such will build a coat....eventually. When refinishing the telescope, I used a wide foam applicator instead of a brush because it allowed me to lay down a lot more finish in one coat, much more evenly and without bubbles and ridges.

If you're using a brush, particularly a narrow one, you may not be laying down enough finish or if you are, you'll just need A LOT of coats to begin to build a film.

Put a drop of poly on something hard like glass, steel or formica and let it harden. Bring it indoors if necessary as cold weather may interfere. You shouldn't be able to nick it with a finger nail. If you can, it's too old.

If it does cure hard, then it's OK and you just need to put more down on the wood to build a film. Using a foam applicator instead of a brush will help lay down more product.

I have Flexner's first book and it's excellent for understanding the different types of finishes and how to dye/stain wood to look like something else...you really can stain poplar to look like a MUCH more expensive mahagony or cherry.