Polybutene Oil? Reduce visible smoke?

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My 94 Land Cruiser with 361,000 mi is a smoker on start up and smokes sometimes when hard on the throttle.
I might me moving to an emission testing area where you wont pass if there is blue smoke.
I read this:
"to stop your engine from smoking as in bluish grey oil smoke ( not black carbon smoke from engine using to much gas) You just mosey over to the place where they make caulking that seals around bathtubs and windows or whatever and ask for "poly butane " about the consistency of 30 weight oil ..Or you can get it by calling the offices of Shell or one of them and asking where they sell it from .My friend got it from both places ..Now,this will not stop your engine from consuming the
same amount as it did before the use of polybutane just that now it burns as clear as the wind ..If you used a liter of oil per 100 km's you will use a liter of polybutane per 100 km's onlt not offend anyone by smoking them out ..This is what STP used as a base years ago and will not hurt your engine .I ran a car on nothing but this for 6 months before selling it..."

Is there any truth to this?
Can you run a car/truck motor on it?

I don't plan on fixing the motor or rebuilding it, when the motor goes, so does the rest of the vehicle.
 
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
I have tried Lucas and Restore with no luck.
Then STP will do no good. How about two cycle oil for the test then drain it out and save it for the next test .
 
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
My 94 Land Cruiser with 361,000 mi is a smoker on start up and smokes sometimes when hard on the throttle.
I might me moving to an emission testing area where you wont pass if there is blue smoke.

It sounds like worn valve-stem oil seals, with the engine sucking too much oil through the valve stems in high-vacuum conditions, such as after idling for a while, or oil seeping through the valve stems after the engine is turned off for a while. I replaced mine myself but a shop would charge a fortune (if they even know how to do it).

Polyisobutylene is used in two-cycle-stroke engine oils to reduce smoke and increase lubricity. So, you can try using an "API TC" rated two-cycle-stroke engine oil. Perhaps it will help somewhat to pass the emissions test.

Chances are that nothing might help with the emissions but try these to help pass the emissions test:

* Use the thickest possible viscosity: 20W-50 or straight 50. Thicker the oil, smaller the amount of oil sucked through the valve stems and other orifices.

* Drive the car for 15 miles or more on the highway before the test (to help clear the oil in the cylinders) and do not turn off the engine before the test -- do the test as soon as possible.

* Just before the test, run the engine at high RPM -- about 4,000 RPM -- for about a minute or two. This will help clear the oil in the cylinders as much as possible.
 
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
I have wondered if you could run a 4 cycle motor on 2 cycle oil???


I'm curious about it too. This would be a great experiment for a worthless oil burner. TCW3 is only $11/gal at WMT.
 
2 Stroke oil burns.
Don't use it in a crankcase. Worse problems will ensue.

Thicker oil is an age old cure for attenuating smoking engines.
Results will vary - it's worth a try. But at 360,000 miles, don't get your hopes too high.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
I have wondered if you could run a 4 cycle motor on 2 cycle oil???


I'm curious about it too. This would be a great experiment for a worthless oil burner. TCW3 is only $11/gal at WMT.
I wouldn't run it except for the smog check it doesn't have the adds for an much of an interval but to milk sone more life out of the engine via passing the smog test why not gamble.
 
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