Please help me plan to the max...

[rob-the-oil-nut]

Thanks in advance, by the way...
Background: ODO just passed 120,000 KM but the engine had "under 20,000 km on it and it was installed about 5000 KM ago" when I bought it at about 113,000 KM. It's a 3800 Series II from an '01 or '02 LeSabre. It had an oil change during the swap as well as one when it went to the sale lot (?), so that's (probably) two with under 500 miles on them. I did one with under 200 KM on it and the used oil analysis supported the swap-story with hi SI count. You may have noticed my post about 'filter that should fit, doesn't' and something about a bashed-in oil pan. I'll be getting a new pan soon, a used but personally and thoroughly inspected one. Anything to keep in mind? Like rust-proof paint, a dash of Militec, spraying it with Pam? OK, back to being serious: While haggling with them about the pan I made plans to (also) install a by-pass filter (OilGuard EPS-20 which was on my old car & removed prior to trade-in....same mechanic installed it on the old car, removed it 2 years later, and is now booked to install it on this engine).
I'm also proud to help others by being the first (known) guy to use Auto-RX through a Canadian winter. (Host oil was GC with Schaeffer's Moly in it) used oil analysis will be a while to post for several reasons. Frank & I e-chatted about the rinse phase in the event I have these two jobs done in less than 2000 miles (which seems quite likely) Then I plan on having RedLine in for a year or more.
Should I make a point of getting the by-pass unit installed before the new pan? What should I specify on the installation of the new pan (it's being installed by the same service dept that bashed in the existing pan. They also did a thing or two that depending on the outcome, I might argue was illegal, unsafe, or fraudulent, but I'm keeping away from that for now)
FWIW I have plenty of LC, Neutra, and Auto-RX to use but the engine should be as clean as can be by the end of the month.
I welcome advice / suggestions / input.
THANKS!
Rob

[ April 10, 2004, 08:37 AM: Message edited by: rob-the-oil-nut ]

 

[rugerman1]

rob,
Are you using a Self Tapping Hollow Bolt in the oilpan for the bypass return? If so,Ask your mechanic if he'd like to install the bolt before he installs the pan on the motor.Installing the bolt while the pan is on the workbench is a piece-of-cake versus laying under the car.
Since you are transferring your bypass filter onto this vehicle,you are highlighting another benefit of bypass filters.The ability to transfer to subsequent vehicles makes bypass filters a NO-BRAINER when cost analysis factors into their purchase price!Tony has been using some of the same Frantz filters since the 60's!

Check out the new site sponser Topic: Oil Guard Bypass Filter
We will have the OilGuard repreentatives answering questions about their products now!

Mark

 

[rob-the-oil-nut]

As I posted elsewhere, the guy said he'd do it for $200 and came to eat his words, he started on it at 7 am and I drove off around 2:30 pm.
I'm going to do a search for the whole item about Auto-RX to clean (done, and I'm now in rinse phase) and LC to keep it nice. Does LC help with viscosity break-down? I have lots of it (sorry Frank) but I'm not 100% sure what it is supposed to do.

Is there such a thing as too much Moly? Some think RedLine has too much as it is, or is an extreme example, but just suppose I added Schaeffer's Moly to RedLine? What would happen? (Apart from really freaking out the UOA labs)
Thanks
Rob-the-oil-nut

 

[Schmoe]

That came up in a post a while back that someone laid claims that too much moly would act as an abrasive. Baloney. This is soluble moly, it's in suspension. Too much moly wouldn't hurt a thing.