Play in Wheel Movement/Brake Job

[Letter_K]

Ok, so yesterday I tackled my brakes and rotors in my 2004 Buick Rendezvous FWD. It's a 4 wheel disc brake system. Replaced the rear shocks while I had everything apart too.

When I went to put it together the front driver side tire wouldn't snug up completely. Tried twice and exchange tire and there was still play in the wheel (could rock it a little.) Doesn't seem to matter if it 3 and 9 or 12 and 6 o'clock position. There was also a lot of grease on the back of the caliper and in that area too. CV, but would it cause my symptoms, bearings, suspension parts?

Tried pumping up the brakes and torquing to final spec and there still was some play which wasn't present on the other side.

On a separate note, this is the first car I've done brakes on that back that use a shoe-type emergency on the inside of the rotor. How far should one back the adjuster wheel? When I spun the back wheels it seemed like the emergency brake light rubbed against the new rotors. Condition-wise the emergency brake system looked good condition with lots of lining left. Is he acceptable or do I need to back it up more?

 

[JTK]

Sounds like you might have a bearing hub or ball joint issue with that wiggly wheel. I wouldn't drive it much until you get that addressed.

I know when my parents owned a 2003 Rendezvous, both front wheel bearings failed just over 36Kmi. GM did reimburse them for the replacements some time later. It was either a TSB or a re-call, I don't recall!

In regards to the p-brake, ideally they are adjusted so they just rub when you roll the wheel. You'll know you have it too loose when the p-brake wont hold the vehicle still.

Joel

 

[mike7139]

Could be a tie rod?

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: mike7139
Could be a tie rod?
A tie rod would only let it wiggle from 9 to 3 and not 12 to 6. I'd look at your bearings.

 

[Letter_K]

Thanks for the input. This vehicle is known for eating bearings as JTK said. When they fail they groan and sound like an out of round tire, at least from my experience with the one that all ready failed.

Would that much grease come from the bearing if it is sealed unit? Or do I likely have a torn boot. If so, is it worth fixing or is it too far gone/compromised and on it's way out?

 

[Astro14]

Failed CV won't cause this problem (though you may need to replace that too...) There are two possibilities: 1. you've got a failed hub bearing, as suggested, or 2. you've got dirt/junk between the new rotor and the hub.

Time to pull it apart and determine which it is...

If there is very light rubbing on the e-brake...no worries, it will bed in to the new rotor hat...

 

[mechanicx]

Wheel bearings can have excessive play and not make noise and can make noise and have no play. in either case the bearing is still bad.

 

[Letter_K]

To come full circle on this issue I figured I share the final results.

Turned out to need a tie rod and a bushing replaced that was half way gone. The CV boot has a slight hole which let the grease out, but not a big enough that the joint will fail immediately. They basically thought I should just wait for it to go and have it replaced at that time.

He didn't recommend cleaning it out and putting a boot kit on because the cost and chance for failure was still there.

Any thought on putting on split boot kit and filling with grease?

 

[artificialist]

I have never heard of anyone getting more than a few months of use from a split CV boot.

Replacement of the CV axle is the only move that makes sense.