Plan for My Engine's Longevity - Please Critique

[tjdean01]

Vehicle's History I have a 1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl 2.4L with 260k on it. For the past 50k (3 years) that I've owned it, it's been run with conventional Quaker State Oil and Purolator PureONE Oil Filters. I work about 7-8 miles from home, in a fairly dry area in the northern US. Engine has always ran smoothly. Always had a few leaks but more on those below. I throw Seafoam or Techron in the gas tank once every 6 months or so. Due to financial reasons of suddenly not being able to afford a second vehicle, I have a new interest in keeping this car for several more years. Recent Work Done Newer Monroe Quick Struts. Newer Michelin tires on steelies but got some very nice wheel covers on order complete with Toyota badges. Patched up a hole in the exhaust recently and now she's smooth as butter again (whole new OEM exhaust next year). Also, recently, I paid $700 for new gaskets on the crank shaft and oil pump. He did the timing belt too. I did the easier valve cover myself and saw no sludge and a relatively small amount of carbon build-up. Since this will be my only vehicle, I completely removed the back seat cushions and backs and made a sleeping platform where my legs go into the trunk. It's quite spacious and I plan to do some weekend getaway camping. I was driving a much smaller car while this was in the shop and I've come to appreciate my full-size Camry much more than before. It runs great now too. I'd say it runs better than half the vehicles half its age. Current Preventative Maintenance If it ain't broke don't fix it is one thing--"Mystery Motor Oil could dislodge some crudge and get up in the cylinders..." or "Switching to synthetic might hurt rather than help..."--but then again, I want the absolute best for the 260k miles old, still smooth, strong engine. I read about Auto-RX and pretty much everything I can read about the topic. I'm on the Toyota forums as well but I figured I need to be on the OIL forum for some of this! I came up with a plan based on reading way too many forums (pretty much nothing is agreed upon by everyone). So far I've added 5 oz Marvel Mystery Oil (only 15% of what's recommended) in the conventional Quaker State Oil. In the future, I think I'll do this around 3-500 miles before each oil change. I don't want to do too much at once to have a lot of micro carbon particles floating around in there. I put the recommended amount of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank; and instead of regular gas, I put premium in. This is all to decarbonize, as a preventative measure. I used only 15% of the recommended dose of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil because I didn't want to suddenly dislodge anything large. Future Plan Since I have new seals I will NOT use High Mileage Oil! It's up for debate, but from what I've read it's my belief that the high mileage oils' seal conditioners will unnecessarily expand my brand new rubber gaskets that I just had replaced. Not worth the risk. Also, at next oil change I'm thinking to drop the oil pan, inspect and manually clean it, and change the seal while I'm under there. I do feel I should switch to full sythetic oil. First, however, as to not clean the engine too quickly which could do harm, I'm thinking to follow this plan: 1) 5 oz Marvel Mystery Oil in current oil for the next 300 miles then oil change to... 2) Conventional Quaker State oil, PureOne filter, with ONE QUART of QS full synthetic mixed in for about 2000 miles then add... 3) 10 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil for 300 miles 4) Sythetic Blend (Valvoline or Pennzoil, not Mobil 1), PureOne filter, go 1000 miles then... 5) add 10 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil for 500 miles 6) Full Synthetic, PureOne Synthetic filter, run for 2000 miles or so. 7) Pretty much continue with this regimen, but eventually go 3-4000 miles like I've been doing. I'd eventually phase out the Marvel after running full synthetic. I'd still do SeaFoam or Techron in the gas on occasion. Questions Does Marvel Mystery Oil damage my new gaskets? Is this Auto-RX stuff a bunch of junk? Should this or SeaFoam replace the better-proven MMO? Does regular synthetic "condition" my new seals that definitely don't need conditioning? I don't want them expanding. Should I even switch to synthetic at all? I do want to for better protection. Should I use Purolator's 99.0% "synthetic" filter after going to synthetic oil when the PureOne filter says 99.9%? It is my understanding the oly PureOne is more efficient but the synthetic ones hold twice as much debris for 8000-mile oil change intervals, which definitely won't be me. Mobil 1? Mobil 1 Super? Valvoline? Pennzoil? Amsoil worth it? Anyway, sorry for the long post. I've much made up my plan. I'm hoping it's a good one. I just came here to get some experts' opinions to make sure it's right for my engine. Thanks a bunch!

 

[Quest]

I don't use MMO and the likes in any of mine/my clientele's cars, period. Definitely not in gas, and not in engine oil, period. Only an occasional dose of techron in gas (once or twice in a year) to keep the injectors clean and worry-free. cars last very long in my case, and still pass emission inspections. Q.

 

[OneEyeJack]

Auto-Rx works but it's slow and steady. It's a bit different so a lot of people here won't use it and know things about it even though they have either no experience with it or have heard something or other. Planning like you're doing is a good idea. Keeping a car that appears to be a "good car" now, works as long as you can stand the stigma of driving an older car. You will loose out on paying financing charges and loosing value through new car depreciation and you of course won't have the latest gadgets but you'll enjoy having more money for something else. My daily driver in my sig is 31 years old and I have no plans to ever sell it. Keep up the good work and worry not about a long posting.

 

[dishdude]

I can do this in a lot less words. All the additives you've listed are a waste of money, since money is tight don't waste what you have on stuff that you don't need and won't do a thing. Use the cheapest name brand conventional you can find on sale and change it every 5k. Even this is conservative! Check the oil level regularly. Wix/Napa Gold is the best filter.

 

[bvance554]

Originally Posted By: dishdude

I can do this in a lot less words. All the additives you've listed are a waste of money, since money is tight don't waste what you have on stuff that you don't need and won't do a thing. Use the cheapest name brand conventional you can find on sale and change it every 5k. Even this is conservative! Check the oil level regularly. Wix/Napa Gold is the best filter.

^^ This. Don't 'switch' to synthetic, just use the cheapest reputable oil you can buy. supertech would work fine as well.

 

[bbhero]

I have the EXACT same car Except the car has only 75,000 miles on it. My lady and I got it and it had only 67,000 on it. Perfectly maintained. So my plan has been very similar to dishdudes. I decided to run a quality conventional oil in it and change it every 4k miles. I've run Pennzoil yellow bottle in it. It runs outstandingly well with zero leaks anywhere. I agree with their plan ideas. Run Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Havoline and or Supertech conventional in it. I hope our car lasts that long Good luck

 

[expat]

Originally Posted By: bvance554

Originally Posted By: dishdude

I can do this in a lot less words. All the additives you've listed are a waste of money, since money is tight don't waste what you have on stuff that you don't need and won't do a thing. Use the cheapest name brand conventional you can find on sale and change it every 5k. Even this is conservative! Check the oil level regularly. Wix/Napa Gold is the best filter.

^^ This. Don't 'switch' to synthetic, just use the cheapest reputable oil you can buy. supertech would work fine as well.

Fully agree, As you say, if it an't broke..... Leave the additives for people that need them, or those with too much money. Conservative oci's with reputable (not expensive) oil, and just some tlc.

 

[Brad_C]

Ugh. That sounds overly complex. When I picked up my 740 @ ~250k/miles I did this. 1. Replace seals on motor with new factory parts (Cam/Crank nose/Aux shaft/Rear main/distributor/breather/valve cover gasket). 2. Fill up with M1 5w30. 3. There is no 3. 5 years later it still does not leak a drop. Took best part of an afternoon and cost the price of the seals (somewhere in the vicinity of $100). I understand the Camry is WWD so you'll probably have to pull the motor to do the rear main, but if you're going to spend so much time faffing around with snake oil to try and stretch the life of the existing seals, why not do it properly and never worry about it again? With the 740 I dropped the trans from under the car to do the rear main. While I had that of I spend another $70 and replaced all the box seals too. After all if it's out you might as well. The last WWD I pulled the motor on saw the best part of a weekend between in and out, but there was a lot of stuff in the middle related to the owner doings something dumb that required some expensive bits. Or just do what everyone else is suggesting and leave it on conventional oil until it dies. If your Toyota is built to the standards we tend to get down here, at 260k it's probably only just run in and ready for the rest of its life.

 

[Merkava_4]

Engine longevity is easily obtained by keeping the oil changed often and don't let the engine overheat - which means - keeping the coolant passages clean by changing the coolant often too.

 

[19jacobob93]

First off congrats on deciding to keep a high mileage car going! It's awesome seeing other people doing it and I plan on doing the same. Since the car has a lot of miles and still runs well and you haven't had any major problems in the past 50k it seems like you have found a good basis to start on, a well looked after example. I've had nothing ever go wrong in the past 100k in my car so that's why I also decided I'm going to keep running it and see how high I can get the oddo! If you have already bought everything in your plan then go for it, it should do good and definitely won't hurt anything. I agree with not going for a full synthetic though, you really won't reap any benefits apart from maybe a lighter wallet in your pocket! I have only used dino/blends in mine and it still runs like clockwork even despite me having a fair old lead foot! Pick a cheap but good quality syn blend, change it every 5-7k and your engine will stay clean and last forever! Ps a high milage oil shouldn't have any negative effects on new seals, some people run them in new engines because they generally have a lot more anti wear additives and have other benefits. Since you have had the seals replaced though I wouldn't worry either way

 

[riggaz]

Honestly pal, stick to the recommended grade of oil in the manual (5w-30 API SJ,SL) and cut the drain interval in half. If you do that you will have a really clean engine in no time (it may already be spotless inside). Fuel system cleaners are a good idea once or twice a year, they do work. As you do short journeys a high TBN oil would suit you well. Modern synthetics are having reductions in anti wear additives for the sake of CAT compatibility so your engine will probably suit the older spec better.

 

[A_Harman]

What is the oil consumption rate? Is it burning it or leaking it? I say nix on the MMO regimen, and stick with a good, name-brand oil and filter change every 5000-6000 miles. That has gotten the car to 260k, and you say the engine is still clean inside, so stick with it. Treat the fuel system with Chevron Techron or Redline SI-1 every 6 months. And some PM items: Change the coolant every 100k miles. Bleed the brakes every year. Change the accessory belts if they are missing chunks out of the ribs. Change the thermostat.

 

[Donald]

You can move up to a full synthetic at any time, it will do more cleaning than conventional oil. Even Walmart Super Tech synthetic would be fine. Forget MMO in anything. If its an automatic trans you need to be concerned with that also. Amsoil ATF, Magnefine inline filter, Auto-Rx in the transmission are all worth considering. Spraying the vehicle with Fluid Film or Carwell will help with rust.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: tjdean01

Vehicle's History I have a 1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl 2.4L with 260k on it. For the past 50k (3 years) that I've owned it, it's been run with conventional Quaker State Oil and Purolator PureONE Oil Filters. I work about 7-8 miles from home, in a fairly dry area in the northern US. Engine has always ran smoothly. Always had a few leaks but more on those below. I throw Seafoam or Techron in the gas tank once every 6 months or so. Due to financial reasons of suddenly not being able to afford a second vehicle, I have a new interest in keeping this car for several more years. Recent Work Done Newer Monroe Quick Struts. Newer Michelin tires on steelies but got some very nice wheel covers on order complete with Toyota badges. Patched up a hole in the exhaust recently and now she's smooth as butter again (whole new OEM exhaust next year). Also, recently, I paid $700 for new gaskets on the crank shaft and oil pump. He did the timing belt too. I did the easier valve cover myself and saw no sludge and a relatively small amount of carbon build-up. Since this will be my only vehicle, I completely removed the back seat cushions and backs and made a sleeping platform where my legs go into the trunk. It's quite spacious and I plan to do some weekend getaway camping. I was driving a much smaller car while this was in the shop and I've come to appreciate my full-size Camry much more than before. It runs great now too. I'd say it runs better than half the vehicles half its age. Current Preventative Maintenance If it ain't broke don't fix it is one thing--"Mystery Motor Oil could dislodge some crudge and get up in the cylinders..." or "Switching to synthetic might hurt rather than help..."--but then again, I want the absolute best for the 260k miles old, still smooth, strong engine. I read about Auto-RX and pretty much everything I can read about the topic. I'm on the Toyota forums as well but I figured I need to be on the OIL forum for some of this! I came up with a plan based on reading way too many forums (pretty much nothing is agreed upon by everyone). So far I've added 5 oz Marvel Mystery Oil (only 15% of what's recommended) in the conventional Quaker State Oil. In the future, I think I'll do this around 3-500 miles before each oil change. I don't want to do too much at once to have a lot of micro carbon particles floating around in there. I put the recommended amount of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank; and instead of regular gas, I put premium in. This is all to decarbonize, as a preventative measure. I used only 15% of the recommended dose of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil because I didn't want to suddenly dislodge anything large. Future Plan Since I have new seals I will NOT use High Mileage Oil! It's up for debate, but from what I've read it's my belief that the high mileage oils' seal conditioners will unnecessarily expand my brand new rubber gaskets that I just had replaced. Not worth the risk. Also, at next oil change I'm thinking to drop the oil pan, inspect and manually clean it, and change the seal while I'm under there. I do feel I should switch to full sythetic oil. First, however, as to not clean the engine too quickly which could do harm, I'm thinking to follow this plan: 1) 5 oz Marvel Mystery Oil in current oil for the next 300 miles then oil change to... 2) Conventional Quaker State oil, PureOne filter, with ONE QUART of QS full synthetic mixed in for about 2000 miles then add... 3) 10 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil for 300 miles 4) Sythetic Blend (Valvoline or Pennzoil, not Mobil 1), PureOne filter, go 1000 miles then... 5) add 10 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil for 500 miles 6) Full Synthetic, PureOne Synthetic filter, run for 2000 miles or so. 7) Pretty much continue with this regimen, but eventually go 3-4000 miles like I've been doing. I'd eventually phase out the Marvel after running full synthetic. I'd still do SeaFoam or Techron in the gas on occasion. Questions Does Marvel Mystery Oil damage my new gaskets? Is this Auto-RX stuff a bunch of junk? Should this or SeaFoam replace the better-proven MMO? Does regular synthetic "condition" my new seals that definitely don't need conditioning? I don't want them expanding. Should I even switch to synthetic at all? I do want to for better protection. Should I use Purolator's 99.0% "synthetic" filter after going to synthetic oil when the PureOne filter says 99.9%? It is my understanding the oly PureOne is more efficient but the synthetic ones hold twice as much debris for 8000-mile oil change intervals, which definitely won't be me. Mobil 1? Mobil 1 Super? Valvoline? Pennzoil? Amsoil worth it? Anyway, sorry for the long post. I've much made up my plan. I'm hoping it's a good one. I just came here to get some experts' opinions to make sure it's right for my engine. Thanks a bunch! I have 340K on a 99 I4 with NO snake oil. Put the cost of the snake oil toward good synthetic oil. Change the transmission fluid every 30K or so. I use the Walmart stuff in the transmission and Rotella T6 for the engine.

BTW I have used Pure Ones since they first became available. Puro air filters as well. You might want to replace the ATF in the power steering bottle (just empty and refill) about every 30K as well. Brake fluid should also be changed on a regular basis, at least when the front pads are replaced.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: tjdean01

Anyway, sorry for the long post. I've much made up my plan. I'm hoping it's a good one. I just came here to get some experts' opinions to make sure it's right for my engine. Thanks a bunch!

Wow. Check with your doctor to see if he can prescribe you anything for this. Sometimes I feel like we all could use some meds to fight this oil OCD obsession. Welcome to BITOG!

 

[Leo99]

As you've experienced, it's the elastomer seals that cause problems as cars age. You've taken care of the important seals so you should be good to go for a while. I'll echo the thoughts above and say to just stick with conventional oil every 5000 miles and hope for the best.

 

[CELICA_XX]

I would skip the Purolator and go for a Fram Ultra with your choice of synthetic. and forget the additives like everyone else said

 

[ExMachina]

Originally Posted By: tjdean01

Vehicle's History I have a 1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl 2.4L with 260k on it.

I like your approach to this overall, especially where you don't use full doses of additives, since its not needed to over-do it here. One basic plan is to just run one or two 2-month oil change intervals and let the oil dissolve away what might be in there. And maybe an engine flush where you idle the engine 5 minute just prior to an oil change with the flush stuff in there, which can be diesel fuel, kerosene, MMO, Kreen used as an engine flush there.

Originally Posted By: tjdean01

Questions Does Marvel Mystery Oil damage my new gaskets?

No, its made up of mineral spirits and pale oil, with a small amount of anti-wear and detergents, from a VOA I saw a while back. Should be OK on seals.

Originally Posted By: tjdean01

Is this Auto-RX stuff a bunch of junk? Should this or SeaFoam replace the better-proven MMO?

Go with Gumout Multi-System that has PEA, a better cleaner by all accounts. I think Kreen too. Also, on bitog, LC20 at lubecontrol.com is considered a good cleaner.

Originally Posted By: tjdean01

Does regular synthetic "condition" my new seals that definitely don't need conditioning? I don't want them expanding.

No, all oils meeting specs have to meet a seal swell min-max, so synthetics are fine.

Originally Posted By: tjdean01

Should I even switch to synthetic at all? I do want to for better protection.

Yes, synthetics gum up rings at a lower rate than lesser basestock oils. Syns have lower rates of oxidation, more stable. Syns can pass the higher dexos1 all the way through MB229.5 because of this fact.

Originally Posted By: tjdean01

Should I use Purolator's 99.0% "synthetic" filter after going to synthetic oil when the PureOne filter says 99.9%? It is my understanding the oly PureOne is more efficient but the synthetic ones hold twice as much debris for 8000-mile oil change intervals, which definitely won't be me.

Correct that an all-synthetic fiber oil filter will hold more dirt. As for using Purolator, they have earned the nickname "Tearolator" because in the recent past they have been seen to tear their media (PureOne and Classic), so I'd use an all-synthetic-fiber Fram Ultra, since its readily available and filters better (smaller grit) than anything else I know of except for the MicroGreen, and Ultra is not much more expensive than lesser paper cellulose oil filters.

Originally Posted By: tjdean01

Mobil 1? Mobil 1 Super? Valvoline? Pennzoil? Amsoil worth it?

Any name-brand synthetic will work great. Amsoil is good, not sure if worth the extra $$. Even use the walmart SuperTech synthetic, as its a Warren-blended oil. If you want the best, look for the Castrol Edge gold jug Extended Performance or the same in the M1 Ext Perf.

 

[GenaFishbeck]

Originally Posted By: tjdean01

Vehicle's History I have a 1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl 2.4L with 260k on it. For the past 50k (3 years) that I've owned it, it's been run with conventional Quaker State Oil and Purolator PureONE Oil Filters. I work about 7-8 miles from home, in a fairly dry area in the northern US. Engine has always ran smoothly. Always had a few leaks but more on those below. I throw Seafoam or Techron in the gas tank once every 6 months or so. Due to financial reasons of suddenly not being able to afford a second vehicle, I have a new interest in keeping this car for several more years. Recent Work Done Newer Monroe Quick Struts. Newer Michelin tires on steelies but got some very nice wheel covers on order complete with Toyota badges. Patched up a hole in the exhaust recently and now she's smooth as butter again (whole new OEM exhaust next year). Also, recently, I paid $700 for new gaskets on the crank shaft and oil pump. He did the timing belt too. I did the easier valve cover myself and saw no sludge and a relatively small amount of carbon build-up. Since this will be my only vehicle, I completely removed the back seat cushions and backs and made a sleeping platform where my legs go into the trunk. It's quite spacious and I plan to do some weekend getaway camping. I was driving a much smaller car while this was in the shop and I've come to appreciate my full-size Camry much more than before. It runs great now too. I'd say it runs better than half the vehicles half its age. Current Preventative Maintenance If it ain't broke don't fix it is one thing--"Mystery Motor Oil could dislodge some crudge and get up in the cylinders..." or "Switching to synthetic might hurt rather than help..."--but then again, I want the absolute best for the 260k miles old, still smooth, strong engine. I read about Auto-RX and pretty much everything I can read about the topic. I'm on the Toyota forums as well but I figured I need to be on the OIL forum for some of this! I came up with a plan based on reading way too many forums (pretty much nothing is agreed upon by everyone). So far I've added 5 oz Marvel Mystery Oil (only 15% of what's recommended) in the conventional Quaker State Oil. In the future, I think I'll do this around 3-500 miles before each oil change. I don't want to do too much at once to have a lot of micro carbon particles floating around in there. I put the recommended amount of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank; and instead of regular gas, I put premium in. This is all to decarbonize, as a preventative measure. I used only 15% of the recommended dose of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil because I didn't want to suddenly dislodge anything large. Future Plan Since I have new seals I will NOT use High Mileage Oil! It's up for debate, but from what I've read it's my belief that the high mileage oils' seal conditioners will unnecessarily expand my brand new rubber gaskets that I just had replaced. Not worth the risk. Also, at next oil change I'm thinking to drop the oil pan, inspect and manually clean it, and change the seal while I'm under there. I do feel I should switch to full sythetic oil. First, however, as to not clean the engine too quickly which could do harm, I'm thinking to follow this plan: 1) 5 oz Marvel Mystery Oil in current oil for the next 300 miles then oil change to... 2) Conventional Quaker State oil, PureOne filter, with ONE QUART of QS full synthetic mixed in for about 2000 miles then add... 3) 10 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil for 300 miles 4) Sythetic Blend (Valvoline or Pennzoil, not Mobil 1), PureOne filter, go 1000 miles then... 5) add 10 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil for 500 miles 6) Full Synthetic, PureOne Synthetic filter, run for 2000 miles or so. 7) Pretty much continue with this regimen, but eventually go 3-4000 miles like I've been doing. I'd eventually phase out the Marvel after running full synthetic. I'd still do SeaFoam or Techron in the gas on occasion. Questions Does Marvel Mystery Oil damage my new gaskets? Is this Auto-RX stuff a bunch of junk? Should this or SeaFoam replace the better-proven MMO? Does regular synthetic "condition" my new seals that definitely don't need conditioning? I don't want them expanding. Should I even switch to synthetic at all? I do want to for better protection. Should I use Purolator's 99.0% "synthetic" filter after going to synthetic oil when the PureOne filter says 99.9%? It is my understanding the oly PureOne is more efficient but the synthetic ones hold twice as much debris for 8000-mile oil change intervals, which definitely won't be me. Mobil 1? Mobil 1 Super? Valvoline? Pennzoil? Amsoil worth it? Anyway, sorry for the long post. I've much made up my plan. I'm hoping it's a good one. I just came here to get some experts' opinions to make sure it's right for my engine. Thanks a bunch!

Hey tjdean01- Synthetic motor oils have seal conditioners in them to help balance out the effects that the synthetic base oil will have on your seals. However, high mileage synthetic formulations have an added amount of seal conditioners to help stop leaks from seals and oil consumption in older, more worn engines. Your 1998 Camry calls for a 5W-30 viscosity grade motor oil, so we’d recommend picking up some Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5W-30. And you’re in luck, we’re currently offering a $10 off instant download coupon for Pennzoil Synthetics purchases: http://www.pennzoil.com/pennzoil-synthetic-oil-ten-dollar-coupon/. Make sure to use the location selector to find participating stores near you! – The Pennzoil Team

 

[stchman]

It is highly unlikely that the chassis will outlast the engine on that car. Just keep changing the oil regularly and do the other routine maintenance and the engine will probably be the only thing left on that car. You could switch to a full synthetic, but since QS oil has done you well, no need to change. Fully synthetic oil doen not CLEAN quicker so you should be able to use it no problem. As far as oil filters, with all the Purolators tearing (I don't know if the Pure One is as affected as well), there are a lot of options out there. If you wish to make the switch to full synthetic, Walmart has 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 and you could use a Fram Ultra oil filter XG4967. FYI, according to Toyota the 1998 Camry had two engines, a 2.2L and a 3.0L.