Piston slap when cold. 2009 Hyundai 2.0L Video

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Hey, so this is my cold 09 Hyundai 2.0L engine piston slap.. Goes away when warm usually within 3 to 5 minutes, or under a mile driving gently.. Has 114K miles and i am using Mobil 1 5W20.

Should i be worried? This is my first car that i can remember with piston slap when cold - but my 5th Hyundai, Will a thicker grade of oil help any, like a 5W30?

It is smooth as glass when warm, pulls hard to redline, and gets 30+ MPG when im not getting on it. Also I consume zero oil, nor does it smoke or leak.

Hood open, exterior, running for 10 seconds before i started video.



This is how it sounds inside.


Thanks all!
 
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I would try 5w30 first to see if it helps , would not be to concerned at this point if it goes away after warm up.
Curious has the timing belt been replaced ? If not i suggest checking it's condition ASAP.
Edit : just read a prior post seeing timing belt has been replaced.
 
Told you M1 is loud oil. LOL!!!!!

I would try thicker first as suggested above. maybe even 10W30 or just to try. buy some cheap Super tech or Chevron supreme with the idea that you wont be leaving it in the engine very long (maybe, full start run, start again next morning. if still there , drain and fill with something else.

My guess is that nothing you can pour into the car will make that go away.

My wifes 07 sienna had teh VVT valves making a horrible clatter on startup then they would quiet down after a minute. Was a lot more muted on a fresh oil change (5W30 Pennzoil plat) but got progressively worse during the OCI. I switch to 10W30 ST syn. and it got better but still there so I traded it in. Read later on that the VVT had a pin that was mechanically wore out which is why it was making the noise. No liquid fix for that.
 
Oil isn't going to help piston slap. To correct the noise, I recommend SiriusXM channel 39 -Hair Nation on volume 10.
Close the hood and continue to enjoy the positive attributes you mentioned.
That's what im going to do!, haha thank you.
 
Oil isn't going to help piston slap. To correct the noise, I recommend SiriusXM channel 39 -Hair Nation on volume 10.
Close the hood and continue to enjoy the positive attributes you mentioned.
Ha ha ha.
My exact thoughts.
Pretend it's a diesel.
OP did not get the memo on OEM oil filters.
 
Unfortunately no oil can cure that. That's some pretty good slap. 3-5 minutes of slap when cold seems pretty excessive. Nothing you can do without a tear down.
 
Ha ha ha.
My exact thoughts.
Pretend it's a diesel.
OP did not get the memo on OEM oil filters.
I did, but i can not see how a oil filter would cause this type of sound.. can someone explain why a high quality aftermarket is worse then OEM for these engines? Im willing to try OEM, but i dont expect much. Will get OEM tomorrow, and put it on. TY
 
I did, but i can not see how a oil filter would cause this type of sound.. can someone explain why a high quality aftermarket is worse then OEM for these engines? Im willing to try OEM, but i dont expect much. Will get OEM tomorrow, and put it on. TY
Patented Korean anti-drain back valve or something like that.

If you can hack this noise, I can tell you from personal expeeience that your engine is durable.

Good luck !
 
Oil isn't going to help piston slap. To correct the noise, I recommend SiriusXM channel 39 -Hair Nation on volume 10.
Close the hood and continue to enjoy the positive attributes you mentioned.
Octane (Channel 37) can also be used. Kinda goes hand-in-hand with driving... :LOL:
 
Update on this. It seems to be getting every so slightly more audible when cold as the OCI goes on - Im assuming the oil is thinning out with use now... The sound still goes away after a couple minutes, to the point of you cant even hear the engine running while standing next to it!(fuel pump hum is louder then the engine lol) Also it pulls very nicely, and is very smooth for a hyundai 4cyl, - i am getting a solid 33.4 MPG with spirited driving. I think i messed up by putting 5W20 in it, so im going to have to drain this perfectly good oil with less then 1K miles on it and step it up to a nice Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W30 with Hyundai OEM filter. Should i do a black stone lab or another report just to make sure? Would black stone be able to tell me "yeah piston slap"? I can hear it so i feel like it would be a waste of money?

For reference it had 5K OCI dealer oil for its life probably in the 5W30 flavor until i got it.. It was never redlined or abused, as it was a older persons car, regular 87 fuel was used but was TT.
I'm now running 91 non-ethanol fuel, 4-6Oz of MMO at every fill up, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w20 and the engine sees the whole RPM range, only when warm though. I live on back roads so can drive very easy with it for miles until i jump out on the highway. MAF was cleaned, along with a new air filter, and ngk iridium spark plugs installed. Transmission fluid 3X3 and coolant was also serviced. Timing belt and other belts, WP, and tensioner changed out at 85K.

And yeah, for a stock factory "upgraded" radio it really "thumps" haha.. It does sound pretty go TBH, and the radio/speakers were never used because the radio had a cold solder issue that the PO lived with for 10 years:oops: I did replace it with another factory upgraded radio and it been perfect since... so the speakers are like new. Thats what i am been doing when its cold (and warm) driving easy after a 1 min warm up, and before you know it, sound disappears usually before the song is over. Volume 10 is just about perfect, on 15, its overkill, and while it sounds really good inside the car, you can hear the bass 100+ feet away on the outside :ROFLMAO:
 
Update on this. It seems to be getting every so slightly more audible when cold as the OCI goes on - Im assuming the oil is thinning out with use now... The sound still goes away after a couple minutes, to the point of you cant even hear the engine running while standing next to it!(fuel pump hum is louder then the engine lol) Also it pulls very nicely, and is very smooth for a hyundai 4cyl, - i am getting a solid 33.4 MPG with spirited driving. I think i messed up by putting 5W20 in it, so im going to have to drain this perfectly good oil with less then 1K miles on it and step it up to a nice Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W30 with Hyundai OEM filter. Should i do a black stone lab or another report just to make sure? Would black stone be able to tell me "yeah piston slap"? I can hear it so i feel like it would be a waste of money?

For reference it had 5K OCI dealer oil for its life probably in the 5W30 flavor until i got it.. It was never redlined or abused, as it was a older persons car, regular 87 fuel was used but was TT.
I'm now running 91 non-ethanol fuel, 4-6Oz of MMO at every fill up, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w20 and the engine sees the whole RPM range, only when warm though. I live on back roads so can drive very easy with it for miles until i jump out on the highway. MAF was cleaned, along with a new air filter, and ngk iridium spark plugs installed. Transmission fluid 3X3 and coolant was also serviced. Timing belt and other belts, WP, and tensioner changed out at 85K
Blackstone probably won't be able to tell you something that you already don't know about it, run the oil you want and keep on driving it, there's not going to be anything that cures the slap. Sounds like the temporary noise doesn't bother you anyway. I had a GM 3.5 and 2.2 that would slap on start up. The engines outlived the cars.
 
Sorry to bring up this thread again but someone local is selling a 2010 Elantra 2.0 Engine with 84k miles, What would you do? I’m going to change to Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 from Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W20 and a Hyundai OEM filter asap, esp after i found out it was missing slightly for this whole time (about 1500 miles) on this M1-5W20 OC ( this thread https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/change-oil-early-after-fixed-misfire-elantra-2-0.345795/ ) but is it possible also by me running the MMO and 91 ethanol free fuel over the last couple thousand miles, it cleaned carbon off the pistons and rings, and now they are cleaner thus looser when cold? It sounds like it is getting not worse, but maybe more audible? Or its all in the head im not even sure at this point lol... But again after 3 minutes it runs so quiet, smooth and feels extremely peppy so i think you guys are right about not to worry about it, it just sounds unnatural to me because i've never had a engine sound like this when cold, but run so well...
Here is a couple videos of how it sounds as of tonight with 115.8K miles.


This is a start up and go, driving up a med incline at less then 5% throttle from inside car.


After a 30 second drive up med incline exterior slight rev.


Thoughts? Am i still over thinking this? Im just worried after reading other post on here and online about the "Hyundai piston slap of death" but its other engines, like the 1.8L NU.. This is a 2.0L BETA II, and maybe im chasing a problem, that does not exist, and am looking for a solution that might not even be a problem, and just the nature of a 116K Hyundai engine....
Thanks!.
 
My old Volvo did that until I added a can of this. Made the engine run real spicy;

shopping
 
Update on this. It seems to be getting every so slightly more audible when cold as the OCI goes on - Im assuming the oil is thinning out with use now... The sound still goes away after a couple minutes, to the point of you cant even hear the engine running while standing next to it!(fuel pump hum is louder then the engine lol) Also it pulls very nicely, and is very smooth for a hyundai 4cyl, - i am getting a solid 33.4 MPG with spirited driving. I think i messed up by putting 5W20 in it, so im going to have to drain this perfectly good oil with less then 1K miles on it and step it up to a nice Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W30 with Hyundai OEM filter. Should i do a black stone lab or another report just to make sure? Would black stone be able to tell me "yeah piston slap"? I can hear it so i feel like it would be a waste of money?

For reference it had 5K OCI dealer oil for its life probably in the 5W30 flavor until i got it.. It was never redlined or abused, as it was a older persons car, regular 87 fuel was used but was TT.
I'm now running 91 non-ethanol fuel, 4-6Oz of MMO at every fill up, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w20 and the engine sees the whole RPM range, only when warm though. I live on back roads so can drive very easy with it for miles until i jump out on the highway. MAF was cleaned, along with a new air filter, and ngk iridium spark plugs installed. Transmission fluid 3X3 and coolant was also serviced. Timing belt and other belts, WP, and tensioner changed out at 85K.

And yeah, for a stock factory "upgraded" radio it really "thumps" haha.. It does sound pretty go TBH, and the radio/speakers were never used because the radio had a cold solder issue that the PO lived with for 10 years:oops: I did replace it with another factory upgraded radio and it been perfect since... so the speakers are like new. Thats what i am been doing when its cold (and warm) driving easy after a 1 min warm up, and before you know it, sound disappears usually before the song is over. Volume 10 is just about perfect, on 15, its overkill, and while it sounds really good inside the car, you can hear the bass 100+ feet away on the outside :ROFLMAO:
Try 5w40 or 10w40.
 
I can’t comment on how Hyundai’s do with piston slap, but the 2.4 k24a8 in my 2006 Accord had piston slap for as long as I owned it and it never gave me an issue. I’ve read K24’s will slap for over 100K and be fine. Hyundai engine engineering isn’t Honda engineering though. I’ll get flack for that but it’s true. Having said that I believe the 2.0 in yours is a solid engine. I wouldn’t worry too much if it is indeed piston slap.
 
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