Pipe soldering question

Status
Not open for further replies.

JHZR2

Staff member
Joined
Dec 14, 2002
Messages
56,184
Location
New Jersey
Hello,

Can damage occur from overheating a pipe? In replacing our toilet, the shutoff valve was shot, both a the fitting to the toilet, and in the valve itself.

We had a hard time getting it off, as the chromed pipe overlaps the feed pipe by over an inch. I didnt want to torque it much, and though we drained the water out, Im sure that didnt help. I had to apply a good amount of heat (it seemed) to be able to twist the two off with two sets of pliers.

After they were of, I cleaned really well, got bright metal, and all seemed OK. THe new USA-made brasscraft pipe slid on smoothly. I took it all off, fluxed it well on all sides, and then applied heat.

Here is where I may have gone wrong... I heated it until solder started to flow. Since it was such a long overlap, it took a LOT of solder, and I kept the heat on. The solder kept flowing, over the 12" that I pulled out in the end all.

I kept the heat on until I applied the 12" of solder, then pulled the heat, and it kept pulling some. I stopped applying when it appeared to me that as many drips were forming as was solder sucking up. After I stopped heat, it still did take some more solder though...

So is there such a thing as aplying too much heat, when soldering or unsoldering?

We turned on the water, bled the pips, and I opened the valve until I got water coming out. I have not seen any moisture.

Should I be worried about "too much heat"?

Thanks!
 
No you cannot apply too much heat, but hopefully the solder didnt go in and clog. Dont be nervous, if you have water flowing and no leaks, your good to go. Ive seen the pipe glow with a torch and the solder just sucked in and it was fine. Sounds like you did a Great job, to me.
 
It takes alot less solder than you think,you might have a nice river of it built on the inside of your line.Should be OK though, no leaky no worry.
 
You can overheat the valve and damage the washers inside. It's easy enough to take it apart and remove the washers while soldering the valve. If the shutoff valve doesn't leak, it's ok. Make sure that it doesn't leak both when it's open and when it's closed.
 
I did take the valve apart, as that was really easy. The brasscraft valves (US made) from HD seem decent. I would have liked a 1/4 turn version, but that's OK.

Hopefully i dont have a solder clog, so long as the toilet fills reasonably fast, I guess Im OK.
 
I cannibalized a Brasscraft valve for the washer to fix another valve that was leaking through the stem. Neither HD nor Lowe's sold a washer that would work. The valve that was leaking could not easily be replaced because it's crimped to polybutylene pipe.
 
The solder is important.
I use bridget solder,sold at most heating supply/plumbing dealers,but not home depot or lowes.
Try using map gas,it's hotter burning than propane.
Use acid brushes to apply more flux as you finish the joint.
makes the joint look better and gets better adhesion.
 
1 foot of solder sure is alot...if it ain't leaking, you're fine My only concern would be the pool of solder (dies the valve seat fine & or the very very slight possibility that with the intense heat...it may have transferred to the fitting *behind that one* depending on the distance *if it was making a 90 degree bend from a vertical pipe* that may have made the solder on that joint wet.....
 
A foot of solder. My plumber buddy uses about an inch. But running the solder into a fitting is kinda mesmerizing, I try to stop at 3-4 inches and it dripps all over the place. I first patched, then totally replaced the plumbing in the original part of my house, some of it twice. I got better the more I did. I just have a few propane torches, some solder and flux , brushes, tubing cutters ,etc. I keep fittings and pipe on hand for emergencies that dont happen much. Recently I re-did my well set up and hot water heater. It really isn't difficult. The addition and the kitchen I had real plumbers do.
 
See, I kind of figured a few inches from what Ive seen for standard fittings like are used in house distribution. However, those have what? a half-inch of overlap between the pipe and fitting? The chrome valve pipe I used overlapped the (brass?) pipe coming from the floor had about 1.5 inches overlap, so I figured it would take a lot more solder.

I kept heat on for a long while, so the next fitting down may have gotten wet. The toilet is a low flow item in reality, and is fed through a small diameter pipe. If there is a clog, I dont notice it... And thevlve seated fine, everything is dry.

So, next question... how long do you keep the heat on for either from cold until the first attempt to wick solder in, or afet it starts going??
 
1st tip -

If you soldering on a pipe that is wet...stick some white bread in there to keep the water *on the inside* of the pipe so it doesn't continually leak out. Don't use multigrain, etc ;-)

It's been awhile since I've soldered but it's usually by instinct Just touch it with the solder and the minute the flux starts sucking in...then it's hot enough.The flux tends to smoke just a lil bit and (usually around 10-15 seconds) and that's a good rule of thumb to test with the solder to see if it's hot enough. When it's hot enough, you don't need more more heat. Just use the solder, let it suck in, MAYBEE apply torch and then touch the opposite 180 side just to let it pull in the solder to make a true 100% 360 joint and that's it. You don't need much . Then just wipe the joint with flux and follow with a dry rag to make the joint look neat.

I'm probably oversimplying the correct method...but
 
Originally Posted By: chefwong
If you soldering on a pipe that is wet...stick some white bread in there to keep the water *on the inside* of the pipe so it doesn't continually leak out. Don't use multigrain, etc ;-)

The white bread trick is one that I've used a lot in the past and it works. Just a small amount to prevent the water from being drawn to the heated area, then shortly thereafter the bread dissolves. Needless to say don't use the crust, just the white bread.
 
Yes, you can apply too much heat.
It breaks down the flux.
You can apply too much solder, as well. Pieces can get inside the pipe and lines.
I have had repairs done in a building, and chunks of solder come out of faucets in other apartments/units afterwards. It damaged the seats of some valves.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom