Pics - Quick Maint Wash/Seal for a Dirty Civic

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One of my best friends has a 2012 Civic. Unfortunately, her car sits outside 24/7 and she lives in an industrial part of the town. To make matters worse, her car has the Crystal Black Pearl paint -- which is known to be one of the softer paints on the market.

To the best of our recollection, her car has only been washed 4 or 5 times since new. I don't think the car has ever since a coat of sealant, let alone a clay treatment. After washing the car, it was evident that there was very heavy contamination on all of the surfaces. The paint felt like sandpaper, and I think it would have taken many passes with a moderately-aggressive clay bar (which would definitely require a one-step polish after) to remove the contaminants. The clay treatment would have probably taken hours.

I had recently purchased the Nanoskin Autoscrub 6" fine-grade DA pad, and wanted to give it a "torture test" on a heavily-contaminated car. This was clearly the good candidate. The pad performed admirably, and removed nearly all of the contamination in a fraction of the time of a traditional clay treatment. I did not notice any marring, but I attribute this to using lots of Nanoskin glide and rinsing the pad after each panel.

It is amazing what kind of a difference can be made in about 3 hours. I spent about 45 min on the wash, 1 hr with the Autoscrub pad and Flex, and 45 min on the sealant. Here was the process and the results.

Process:

Wash w/Meg's Gold Class Wash
Wash wheels and tires w/Simple Green 1:4
Removed dried sap with Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Cleaner

Nanoskin Autoscrub 6" fine-grade DA Pad w/Flex 3401XRG for paint decontamination. Used speed 3, 3-4 passes per panel, and Nanoskin glide at 1:6 dilution.

Sealant was a heavy coat of Collinite 845, which was applied with a LC Black Pad on the Flex 3401XRG at speed 2.5.

Tires were dressed with Optimum Opti-Bond, but I think my applicator pad was dirty as the tires did not turn out as intended.

Only took a few pics:







Prior to this, the paint felt rough, was very dull and had no shine whatsoever. Now, the paint feels slick and is fairly glossy. By no means is the finish perfect - it has a number of tiny water spots and some light swirls, but I think this is a major improvement compared to before.

BTW - the crankcase has Mobil 1 0w20 and a Fram Ultra filter. OLM still shows 70% remaining after 4000 miles.
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Come on, you took no before pictures?? You can not brag about a great job if you don't show what you started with.

Mind you, the end results speak for themselves though! It looks stunning!!
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Come on, you took no before pictures?? You can not brag about a great job if you don't show what you started with.


Yeah, I should've taken some before pics but I was in a hurry. Just imagine a black car with a matte-like finish.
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Is the Nanoskin considered to be paint correction or only decontamination process? I do not see any polishing process that you have listed. If that is the case, then the original paint must have been in great condition regardless of how it was taken care of.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Is the Nanoskin considered to be paint correction or only decontamination process? I do not see any polishing process that you have listed. If that is the case, then the original paint must have been in great condition regardless of how it was taken care of.


Nanoskin is only used for paint decontamination - there's no polishing effect. And yes, the paint was still in pretty decent shape since very few people have touched it. There was some light swirling on the hood, quarter panels and hood... but it should clean-up nicely with a polishing pad and Meg's D151...if I ever get around to fixing it.

Originally Posted By: SLCraig
I gotta do the same with my Civic..
Although I'll use some different products.. I've sorta always wanted to try Collinite.


Collinite 845 takes a bit too long to do. Going forward, I think I'll apply a coat of Collinite 845 every 6 months and maintain the car with a coat of Blackfire Crystal Seal at every other wash.
 
Not sure if "every other wash" is the right approach...

Sun, rain, etc. all remove the wax coating. So Id imagine it is a time issue more than a wash issue... Unless you wash on a regular interval...

I cant say that Ive been that impressed with the longevity of collinite beading longevity, though its all weve used on the 08 rabbit since new...
 
update...

I had some time after doing a routine service and decided to do another mini-detail.

The car had been washed twice since this original post. After washing the car, the water was just lying on the roof, trunklid and hood. The side panels had some big beads, but that's not a sign of protection.

Upon further inspection, I found a reason for this behavior -- the surface was very contaminated. It was not as bad as the first time, but there was still a lot of contamination built-up. This must be an issue with the surrounding environment.

I applied Iron-X paste to the car and allowed it to dwell for 5 minutes. After rinsing it off, most of the contamination was gone and the panels were all beading water to some extent, but clearly, no protection was left. I finished off with "claying" the car using a Nanoskin Med Wash Mitt and ONR.

This time, I used Menzerna Power Lock as the sealant.

Once the weather warms up, I will polish the car and apply Opti-Coat. Under bright xenon lights, the paint on this car is actually pretty hammered -- lots of water spotting and moderate swirls.
 
When I do a car for a friend or family member I find the ones that don't get washed are my preference. I'd rather deal with a dull contaminated finish than a dull contaminated finish with tons of swirls from poor quality washes.

IMO the best bang for your time and buck is ALWAYS a good wash, decontam., and wax/sealant. Unfortunately for many people and many cars going through the other steps tends to be a waste. Anyway, looks good, Powerlock should help a lot over the 845, and it sounds like you're going to keep it from ever getting too bad.
 
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