Performing a flush and fill this weekend
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I would recommend doing a complete cooling system rebuild. New hoses, thermostat, water pump and radiator, since the system is over ten years old.
Any of the universal coolants should work fine in the Mitsubishi, which I don't think had any specific coolant requirements aside from plain 'ol EG.
Any of the universal coolants should work fine in the Mitsubishi, which I don't think had any specific coolant requirements aside from plain 'ol EG.
Ifin ya don't want to get fully involved like The Critic recomends, at least change the bottom rad hose along with the top.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I would recommend doing a complete cooling system rebuild. New hoses, thermostat, water pump and radiator, since the system is over ten years old.
I disagree with replacing the majority of your cooling system without doing a little homework first.
I'd agree that the bottom hose should be replaced since the top one is bulging, cheap enough. Instead of buying the generic hoses from your local auto parts store see if you can find the OEM hoses for cheaper online. Thermostat and water pump should be CAREFULLY inspected (and reused if your Mitsu is low millage). If your Mitsu is higher millage then thermostats are cheap. Maybe your erratic temps are coming from a thermostat that's gone bad. Water pumps can be pricey, so of course inspect for bad bearings, leaks, shredded fins, etc. Check the radiator fins for leaks or rusty spots. After a couple of flushes the water should come out clear. If you're getting chunks then maybe your radiator is too far gone.
Flush the system using WalMart (or other cheap) distilled water. By flush I mean drain, replace hoses, refill with distilled water, drive for 15 min, come home, drain, refill with distilled water, etc. Finally refill with appropriate anti-freeze/coolant.
I'm not suggesting using bad or suspect parts or half-baked anything. But throwing new parts at an undiagnosed problem seems wasteful to me.
I would recommend doing a complete cooling system rebuild. New hoses, thermostat, water pump and radiator, since the system is over ten years old.
I disagree with replacing the majority of your cooling system without doing a little homework first.
I'd agree that the bottom hose should be replaced since the top one is bulging, cheap enough. Instead of buying the generic hoses from your local auto parts store see if you can find the OEM hoses for cheaper online. Thermostat and water pump should be CAREFULLY inspected (and reused if your Mitsu is low millage). If your Mitsu is higher millage then thermostats are cheap. Maybe your erratic temps are coming from a thermostat that's gone bad. Water pumps can be pricey, so of course inspect for bad bearings, leaks, shredded fins, etc. Check the radiator fins for leaks or rusty spots. After a couple of flushes the water should come out clear. If you're getting chunks then maybe your radiator is too far gone.
Flush the system using WalMart (or other cheap) distilled water. By flush I mean drain, replace hoses, refill with distilled water, drive for 15 min, come home, drain, refill with distilled water, etc. Finally refill with appropriate anti-freeze/coolant.
I'm not suggesting using bad or suspect parts or half-baked anything. But throwing new parts at an undiagnosed problem seems wasteful to me.
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I agree. The radiator could go another 10 years without leaking. The hoses are what you have to replace at that mileage. Heater hoses and the top hose especially. As far as coolant type besides OE, a lot of people used Green in them. G-05 would be a good choice despite the silicates. Zerex has asian vehicle formula, which might be hard to find and is premix but it would be the most correct coolant chemistry.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I agree. The radiator could go another 10 years without leaking. The hoses are what you have to replace at that mileage. Heater hoses and the top hose especially. As far as coolant type besides OE, a lot of people used Green in them. G-05 would be a good choice despite the silicates. Zerex has asian vehicle formula, which might be hard to find and is premix but it would be the most correct coolant chemistry.
I agree, the first to fail are heater and upper hoses.
I agree. The radiator could go another 10 years without leaking. The hoses are what you have to replace at that mileage. Heater hoses and the top hose especially. As far as coolant type besides OE, a lot of people used Green in them. G-05 would be a good choice despite the silicates. Zerex has asian vehicle formula, which might be hard to find and is premix but it would be the most correct coolant chemistry.
I agree, the first to fail are heater and upper hoses.
Originally Posted By: santov
I disagree with replacing the majority of your cooling system without doing a little homework first.
On the majority of the few ten year old vehicles I see, either a good portion of the cooling system has been replaced or will be needing replacement in the very near future. Considering that if a not auto savvy person is driving the car and a cooling system component fails, chances are the vehicle will not be stopped immediately and serious damage will result. So, the cost of a complete cooling system rebuild is cheap insurance compared to the effects of an overheated vehicle.
Also, a complete cooling system overhaul is not an uncommon or unheard of practice. On most late-model BMWs, it is recommended by a number of independents to perform a complete cooling system overhaul every 75k, which is about when most of the cooling systems show significant degradation.
http://sandiegobmw.wordpress.com/2008/06/06/the-cooling-system-killing-your-bmw/
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...;catalogid=4462
I disagree with replacing the majority of your cooling system without doing a little homework first.
On the majority of the few ten year old vehicles I see, either a good portion of the cooling system has been replaced or will be needing replacement in the very near future. Considering that if a not auto savvy person is driving the car and a cooling system component fails, chances are the vehicle will not be stopped immediately and serious damage will result. So, the cost of a complete cooling system rebuild is cheap insurance compared to the effects of an overheated vehicle.
Also, a complete cooling system overhaul is not an uncommon or unheard of practice. On most late-model BMWs, it is recommended by a number of independents to perform a complete cooling system overhaul every 75k, which is about when most of the cooling systems show significant degradation.
http://sandiegobmw.wordpress.com/2008/06/06/the-cooling-system-killing-your-bmw/
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...;catalogid=4462
"a complete cooling system overhaul every 75k" - ouch!
Cooling system on my Jeep is 12 years old with almost 105k miles. Radiator and fan were replaced about a year ago (before I got it) at 95k and 96k (fan failed, radiator started leaking).
I don't think the rad hoses were replaced, and they're still in good shape. The water pump is original, turns freely with no bearing noise (if belt is removed), and doesn't leak. Heater core and hoses are original, still in good shape.
If you keep an eye on the condition of the parts, just replace each as they get worn out, or show signs of impending failure (bulging radiator hoses, leaky water pump, etc).
I don't think the rad hoses were replaced, and they're still in good shape. The water pump is original, turns freely with no bearing noise (if belt is removed), and doesn't leak. Heater core and hoses are original, still in good shape.
If you keep an eye on the condition of the parts, just replace each as they get worn out, or show signs of impending failure (bulging radiator hoses, leaky water pump, etc).
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