Performance Brake Pads

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rewote500

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The forum has brake in the Title though I do not see many threads on them. Thought I would go ahead anyway.

Okay I want to improve the braking performance on my 2002 Dodge Intrepid SE. I would like to shorten the braking distance. I am considering EBC Redstuff and Hawk HPS. I have the Hawk Ceramics on it now and do not like them. Seems like it takes them a bit to get a grip. So any thought on best brake pad rotor combo to shorten braking distance? Noise and Dust not an issue....
 
Tires, not brakes will have a greater effect on the stopping distances of your car.

Hawk HPS pads may be a better choice. If they are available for your application, Stoptech 301 and PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads are your best bet. Another choice would be Bendix CT-3, if you can find some.
 
I bought a set of performance brakes for a car some time ago and I'll never do it again. At that time, I didn't realize that it took the brakes it's heat up time in order to perform. And the performance that I received was unnoticable. When the brakes were cold, I almost couldn't stop. Had to get rid of those performance brake pads and put on normal pads. Im sure there are some performance brake pads that have good stopping power from the get go and can handle the heat of repeated stops but, most need a warm up time.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads are your best bet.

These are OK, not more. Nissan OEM (in my particular case, don't know about Dodge/Chrysler) is much better. Axxis Ultimate are very noisy, and I could not make them better even after two days of autocross. I would vote for Hawk HPS, but again, my first choice is OEM. One more idea - try Mintex Red - they are chip, but suitable.

P.S. For example, Subaru OEM (what I had on my Outback) are awful. So it depends.
 
Ceramics are very good street pads, but often are not the best for grab and grip. I sure like their lack of dust!

There is a rating on the side of the pad. EE,EF,FF,FG, etc..
These letters correspond to the coefficient of friction. F is better [more grab] than E , and G is better than F, and so on.
These ratings are kinda like oil - a cold and hot performance rating. The first is warm operation friction, and the second is hot performance.
So check this out on your pad choice. Add to this that full metallic pads can be made to grab very well, but will eat rotors a bit faster on the street.
They are more prone to noise and dust.
 
Noise/Dust not an issue..... my feelings the same.

HPS are 1 step above the ceramics that you're using. So, when your Hawk Ceramics are 'done', move up to the HPS.

I also like MetalMaster pads. I think they call them "XPG" now. There is something about metallic pads that ceramic, kevlar, carbonfiber, graphite, "gimic material here".... can't replicate when it comes to feel and braking performance.

I've used EBC Greenstuff as OE replacement for years. If you're not happy with the Hawk Ceramics, you won't be happy with "Green". Consider the EBC Redstuff.

And, always use new or turned rotors. I prefer solid blanks. Never did care for the slots or holes in rotors. ANY blank can be made better with a cryo treatment.

Mintex pads can be tough to find. Have a 5 year old set on one of my cars and have no complaints. Good ol' redbox Mintex!

Better pads will take a bit to bite and a little more pressure. The pressure helps with modulating brake pedal feel and makes ABS obsolete. I still have a strong leg and working knee so I don't mind using a little more pressure, and can still tolerate the warm up that some pads need. Girlie drivers can stick with OE!

Critic, if your brake pads are smoking and the rotors toasting, whether you have fancy radials or bald bias-plied re-threads makes no difference! So, tires DO NOT necessarily have a greater effect on stopping distance. Either the tire or the pad are an 'equal' fuse to the situation. If either fuse blows, you're all done regardless. No mountains to drive down in your area?????
 
Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads do an excellent job for me on my truck. AutoZone can order them. I recommend them highly.

"Ceramic" is somewhat misleading...many pads of all performance levels may contain some ceramic, but mainly the ceramic pads are for low noise.

Be sure you have fresh brake fluid with all the air fully bled out for the best performance. And, sometimes, some car models just don't have a braking system that is possible to upgrade to the highest level.
 
Performance Friction Carbon Metallic. PFC's A clearly better choice and they won't cost you as much as the others mentioned. nor will they have side effects such as squeeling or excessive rotor wear and will have great cold performance.
 
Last edited:
Performance Friction all the way.....Amazon has some GREAT prices on Performance Friction for your vehicle

Carbon Metallic® pads are our most popular brake pads. With NO CLAY fillers, they'll outlast the competition 2 to 3 times, and will be the pad best suited for most people's daily driving needs. Carbon Metallic® offers superior braking, pedal feel, and longer life without fade at high temperatures. There are over a dozen varieties of Carbon Metallic®, each custom manufactured for a specific vehicle application.

Product Name Location Product Number
Carbon Metallic
REAR ONLY;DISC/DISC Rear 0782.20
http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Fricti...9981&sr=1-1

Carbon Metallic
FRONT ONLY;DISC/DISC;DISC/DRUM Front 0591.20
http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Fricti...9933&sr=1-1


Z-Rated® pads are an extension of the Carbon Metallic® brand, specifically engineered for high-performance and/or severe-duty usage. Whether you drive a BMW, Corvette, Honda or Mustang, or you tow tons of weight with an F350, Z-Rated® is engineered to deliver safety and performance under even the most severe conditions.

Product Name Location Product Number Z-Rated

FRONT ONLY;DISC/DISC;DISC/DRUM Front 0591.10

Not sure this price is low..Just for comparison
http://www.woodys-auto-supply.com/mobile/mobile-auto-part-details.asp?prod=PFC-0591.10
 
Lately I've been using PBR Metal Master/ Axxis XPG pads with great results. Much less dust than Ultima Ceramics, and almost as much bit as the HPS pads I used to run.

The weight of the car is the main factor to look at when trying to reduce braking distance. As the heavier the car the more heat the brakes will produce resulting in higher temps and fading. A larger rotor and more performance based brake pad with help trmedously with fading and stopping power.

Not sure if there is a larger brake setup from another LH platform that may bolt right up. But it might be worth a look to help you reach your goal.
 
Originally Posted By: rewote500
The forum has brake in the Title though I do not see many threads on them. Thought I would go ahead anyway.

Okay I want to improve the braking performance on my 2002 Dodge Intrepid SE. I would like to shorten the braking distance. I am considering EBC Redstuff and Hawk HPS. I have the Hawk Ceramics on it now and do not like them. Seems like it takes them a bit to get a grip. So any thought on best brake pad rotor combo to shorten braking distance? Noise and Dust not an issue....


Did you use new rotor when you switch to Hawk Performance Ceramics ? I find the Hawk Ceramics materials are very hard, so the best is to use new pad with new blank rotor.
My experience also confirms that once the Hawk Performance Ceramics is worn, the low temperature performance really bad and it is a bit dangerous to drive high-speed, because it will not brake until it reach moderate heat temperature.
 
All but forgot about the CarbonMetallics from the lcoal autoparts store. My ol' Nissans ran them. Great pad. Also depends on the driving style. Zrated might be the way to go!
 
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Originally Posted By: rewote500
The forum has brake in the Title though I do not see many threads on them. Thought I would go ahead anyway.

Okay I want to improve the braking performance on my 2002 Dodge Intrepid SE. I would like to shorten the braking distance. I am considering EBC Redstuff and Hawk HPS. I have the Hawk Ceramics on it now and do not like them. Seems like it takes them a bit to get a grip. So any thought on best brake pad rotor combo to shorten braking distance? Noise and Dust not an issue....


Did you use new rotor when you switch to Hawk Performance Ceramics ? I find the Hawk Ceramics materials are very hard, so the best is to use new pad with new blank rotor.
My experience also confirms that once the Hawk Performance Ceramics is worn, the low temperature performance really bad and it is a bit dangerous to drive high-speed, because it will not brake until it reach moderate heat temperature.



Yeah, I put new blanks on when I installed the Hawk Ceramics. Used WearEvers from AAP. That's why I want to try a different combo of pads and rotors next time. The braking just isn't there when these pads are cool.
 
Originally Posted By: unDummy
Noise/Dust not an issue..... my feelings the same.

HPS are 1 step above the ceramics that you're using. So, when your Hawk Ceramics are 'done', move up to the HPS.

I also like MetalMaster pads. I think they call them "XPG" now. There is something about metallic pads that ceramic, kevlar, carbonfiber, graphite, "gimic material here".... can't replicate when it comes to feel and braking performance.

I've used EBC Greenstuff as OE replacement for years. If you're not happy with the Hawk Ceramics, you won't be happy with "Green". Consider the EBC Redstuff.

And, always use new or turned rotors. I prefer solid blanks. Never did care for the slots or holes in rotors. ANY blank can be made better with a cryo treatment.

Mintex pads can be tough to find. Have a 5 year old set on one of my cars and have no complaints. Good ol' redbox Mintex!

Better pads will take a bit to bite and a little more pressure. The pressure helps with modulating brake pedal feel and makes ABS obsolete. I still have a strong leg and working knee so I don't mind using a little more pressure, and can still tolerate the warm up that some pads need. Girlie drivers can stick with OE!

Critic, if your brake pads are smoking and the rotors toasting, whether you have fancy radials or bald bias-plied re-threads makes no difference! So, tires DO NOT necessarily have a greater effect on stopping distance. Either the tire or the pad are an 'equal' fuse to the situation. If either fuse blows, you're all done regardless. No mountains to drive down in your area?????


What exactly will the cryo treatment do for rotors?
 
Cryo treating them hardens them big time. Also, makes them less likely to warp.

I had Hawk Racing pads and some cryo slotted rotors on my last car. They worked great together. I even tried to warp them a few times just to see if I could. Wasn't able to warp them. Also, after almost a year the rotors sill looked as if they had just been turned. Pretty much no wear.

check out frozenrotors.com. That's where the ones I had came from.
 
Originally Posted By: AdRock
Cryo treating them hardens them big time. Also, makes them less likely to warp.

I had Hawk Racing pads and some cryo slotted rotors on my last car. They worked great together. I even tried to warp them a few times just to see if I could. Wasn't able to warp them. Also, after almost a year the rotors sill looked as if they had just been turned. Pretty much no wear.

check out frozenrotors.com. That's where the ones I had came from.


I think your racing pads shed a lot of dust, so the rotor did not warp. My experience with cryo rotor and ceramic pad, is otherwise, there is one time my pad overheated and the rotor warp. I turned the rotor, but the noise is unbearable like braking on sandpaper, and when the rotor heated up the vibration is coming back.

Currently I use Akebono ACT with OEM rotor, so far good braking, only quirk is the pad quite grabby when it is cold, so need to brake softly.
 
I think most people know how I feel about brakes. I've made much-a-do about Hawk and Powerslots. I'll just say that they get my recommendation everytime and that's what I use without any issue.
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I bought a set of performance brakes for a car some time ago and I'll never do it again. At that time, I didn't realize that it took the brakes it's heat up time in order to perform. And the performance that I received was unnoticable. When the brakes were cold, I almost couldn't stop. Had to get rid of those performance brake pads and put on normal pads. Im sure there are some performance brake pads that have good stopping power from the get go and can handle the heat of repeated stops but, most need a warm up time.


I see a great responce for Performance Friction Brake Pads. It was these brakes the I used(but did not mention) and was talking about in my above post. They didn't work for me and has turned me against performance type pads. My 1980 Firebird FORMULA V8 was build with performance pad from the factory. These brakes sucked for the first 5 years. I still have the original brakes on the car(30 years now) and they're now great and have been for the last 25 years. My daughter has an 06 Mazda3 that she just pruchaced in Aug,09. The used car dealership she purchaced the car from had installed new brakes all around and Im assuming that they're some kind of performance pads because they need heat to perform normal. First mile of driving in the morning, she used CAUTION! With 10K since my daughter took delivery of her Mazda3, the brakes are much better she claims but, still noisy and dusty. The brakes are comming off as soon as she gives me the go ahead.

I guess that high performance brake pads aren't for my type of driving. Deffinately not for normal driving. I need the brakes to feel the same from the first stop to the last stop. I don't do repeated hard stops even though I may do stop & go driving. The brakes that I use on my vehicles are usually the normal factory replacement type pads/rotors/shoes or I'll upgrade to ceramic which I like very much.
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby

I guess that high performance brake pads aren't for my type of driving. Deffinately not for normal driving. I need the brakes to feel the same from the first stop to the last stop. I don't do repeated hard stops even though I may do stop & go driving. The brakes that I use on my vehicles are usually the normal factory replacement type pads/rotors/shoes or I'll upgrade to ceramic which I like very much.


I bet you will love Akebono ProACT with your driving style.
It is ceramic OEM formula, very less dust, very quiet and great initial bite.
 
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