Pentastar belt/tensioner

[JHZR2]

Dude-
Lighten up. Responding to OP with a general question. Would you replace a tensioner if it cost $420 ?( and provided an example). It wasn't about his car. Had nothing to do with any individual car or your car. Are you arguing about whether a part really cost $420? Is that important? I'm not going to find part numbers, 10 pictures, videos, prices, multiple responses etc. LOL

You cited a car brand and a part cost. Not me.

I simply asked what car was that pricy, you told me to look the ethereal part up because it was wholesales at $280. There’s nothing to lighten up on. I asked you a question, what’s the vehicle? You’re implying there is one, now it sounds like it was imaginary.

Obviously the determination to change is based upon the price of the replacement (many, many being >$100, and many easy to remove with decent access). Even some that are more nuanced and have hydraulic operation aren’t hugely expensive. Not the $420 you stated.

I provided images of what to look for. That is part of the consideration if OP can see the tensioner and have a look.

A hypothetical $420 tensioner mounted front and center, and easy to get to is different than some magical tensioner device that is packed under some other parts that are impossible to remove.

But short of some exotic design or build I’m not so sure I could see the basis of such a design practice. A belt for auxiliaries is a maintenance item, a failure item, and a safety critical item. The intent is to be able to access and replace. A notional $$expensive tensioner would notionally also be designed to a higher standard because it’s too hard to get and replace and so it has a longer design life than the typical $67 one like I posted an image of above…

Not sure why this is so hard. You said something, I asked a question. It would be good to help OP and have fruitful discussion for others in the future…

 

[JHZR2]

Recommendation is 90k

For a tensioner or a belt?

https://www.gates.com/us/en/industr...-tips-diagnose-epdm-serpentine-belt-wear.html

To me that’s more oriented towards the belt than the tensioner. Belts do elongate as well as wear (Gates used to send a measurement tool to those who ask for it).

My impression was that a tensioner is condemned when the Teflon washer is worn, or the index marks on a new belt isn’t in the right place.

If a new, proper length belt is installed and the tensioner isn’t in the right range of timing marks, I’d suspect that means either the spring is weak from use/time, or wear. I’d say that’s a good time to change it.

I’ve seen weakened tensioners get noisy and move in and out under operation. Then I’ve seen the OE tensioner on my 96 cummins that I could probably run another 100k…

 

[Chris142]

For a tensioner or a belt?


To me that’s more oriented towards the belt than the tensioner. Belts do elongate as well as wear (Gates used to send a measurement tool to those who ask for it).

My impression was that a tensioner is condemned when the Teflon washer is worn, or the index marks on a new belt isn’t in the right place.

View attachment 82890View attachment 82891

If a new, proper length belt is installed and the tensioner isn’t in the right range of timing marks, I’d suspect that means either the spring is weak from use/time, or wear. I’d say that’s a good time to change it.

I’ve seen weakened tensioners get noisy and move in and out under operation. Then I’ve seen the OE tensioner on my 96 cummins that I could probably run another 100k…

 

[JHZR2]

^ Yeah, saw that. But they want to sell the entire system... Of course. I get the belt being on that schedule. The tensioner isnt as cut and dry IMO...

Meanwhile I am replacinga 26yo, 265k mile orignal tensioner that could keep working if I left it....

 

[willbur]

You cited a car brand and a part cost. Not me.

I simply asked what car was that pricy, you told me to look the ethereal part up because it was wholesales at $280. There’s nothing to lighten up on. I asked you a question, what’s the vehicle? You’re implying there is one, now it sounds like it was imaginary.

Obviously the determination to change is based upon the price of the replacement (many, many being >$100, and many easy to remove with decent access). Even some that are more nuanced and have hydraulic operation aren’t hugely expensive. Not the $420 you stated.

I provided images of what to look for. That is part of the consideration if OP can see the tensioner and have a look.

A hypothetical $420 tensioner mounted front and center, and easy to get to is different than some magical tensioner device that is packed under some other parts that are impossible to remove.

But short of some exotic design or build I’m not so sure I could see the basis of such a design practice. A belt for auxiliaries is a maintenance item, a failure item, and a safety critical item. The intent is to be able to access and replace. A notional $$expensive tensioner would notionally also be designed to a higher standard because it’s too hard to get and replace and so it has a longer design life than the typical $67 one like I posted an image of above…

Not sure why this is so hard. You said something, I asked a question. It would be good to help OP and have fruitful discussion for others in the future…

Here ya go, Bro​

​

Tensioner Assembly, Auto - Honda (31170-R40-A01)​

• 
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• MSRP:$419.29
• Discount:$137.53 (32.80% off)
• Sale Price:$281.76

 

[JHZR2]

Sooo, you still didn’t give a car model or date? Is this from some exotic thing like an NSX, or from something pedestrian and accessible?

what are the design considerations that drive price? Known failure modes? Ease of checking it and replacing it?

All these things come into mind, not just the cost.

 

[willbur]

Sooo, you still didn’t give a car model or date? Is this from some exotic thing like an NSX, or from something pedestrian and accessible?

what are the design considerations that drive price? Known failure modes? Ease of checking it and replacing it?

All these things come into mind, not just the cost.

You are really funny! This is absolutelly the most inane post LOL.

Part Fitment​

Year Make Model	Body & Trim	Emission & Transmission
2009 Honda Accord	4 Door EX, 4 Door EX (PZEV), 4 Door EX-L, 4 Door EX-L (PZEV), 4 Door LX, 4 Door LX (PZEV)	KA 5AT, KL 5AT
2008 Honda Accord	4 Door EX, 4 Door EX (PZEV), 4 Door EX-L, 4 Door EX-L (PZEV), 4 Door LX, 4 Door LX (PZEV)	KA 5AT, KL 5AT

 

[MattPersman]

On a pentastar I would do the idler pullies. Seen way more of those fail dont think we have had a tensioner fail. There is a “smooth” and a “ribbed”

 

[GMBoy]

2014 Jeep GC 3.6 146k miles on original tensioner. Changed the belt at 80k. I usually do both the belt and tensioner but seeing what junk is available I decided to keep the OEM on there until it starts to go. It still is quiet and working well.

 

[svtrit]

I’m going to be doing this in the Spring when it warms up. I’ve seen some nice kits that have a tensioner, idler pulley and new belt. Seems like the way to go.

I always put the old belt and tensioner in the jack compartment to have for an emergency repair.

 

[zrxkawboy]

Thanks for all the input...much appreciated!