Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
I don't think there are any Euro SN+ oils period
Which is a moot point anyway because the approvals are much more robust than API
We don't live in Europe. We don't drive their highways or some of their vehicles. Many there are light diesel. Even our gasoline is different.
The best specs to follow are what's in your owners manual - for the USA. Want to go up a grade?..... most manuals allow it. Want to go up two grades?..... a few manuals allow it. If not, then clean the wax out of the ear and listen to your engine. Watch for smoke or consumption traits. Odds are, things will improve going up the grade ladder, versus down.
The best engine doctor is the vehicle owner. Not a BITOG Oil scientist here that can only tell you the math formulas. They cannot tell you how your engine will react to their math. All our driving habits and engine brake-in habits are different. Some of the engines were built on hangover withdrawl days. Some were built properly (when totally alert and sober) and act accordingly.
Our spouses make better engine nurses than someone on the internet two thousand miles away, that can only relate the national average on engine symptoms.
Well that was an interesting rant. If you drive a Euro vehicle, typically it calls for a Euro spec oil, regardless of where it is sold.
The OP asked what was the difference between a "regular" oil and a Euro oil. The former typically meets API/ILSAC specs and the latter typically meets a Euro manufacturer spec based on ACEA. That is the difference.
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
I don't think there are any Euro SN+ oils period
Which is a moot point anyway because the approvals are much more robust than API
We don't live in Europe. We don't drive their highways or some of their vehicles. Many there are light diesel. Even our gasoline is different.
The best specs to follow are what's in your owners manual - for the USA. Want to go up a grade?..... most manuals allow it. Want to go up two grades?..... a few manuals allow it. If not, then clean the wax out of the ear and listen to your engine. Watch for smoke or consumption traits. Odds are, things will improve going up the grade ladder, versus down.
The best engine doctor is the vehicle owner. Not a BITOG Oil scientist here that can only tell you the math formulas. They cannot tell you how your engine will react to their math. All our driving habits and engine brake-in habits are different. Some of the engines were built on hangover withdrawl days. Some were built properly (when totally alert and sober) and act accordingly.
Our spouses make better engine nurses than someone on the internet two thousand miles away, that can only relate the national average on engine symptoms.
Well that was an interesting rant. If you drive a Euro vehicle, typically it calls for a Euro spec oil, regardless of where it is sold.
The OP asked what was the difference between a "regular" oil and a Euro oil. The former typically meets API/ILSAC specs and the latter typically meets a Euro manufacturer spec based on ACEA. That is the difference.