Originally Posted By: 351mustang65
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: 351mustang65
Originally Posted By: Donald
What does your engine call for 5W20 or 5W30? I would have used PP rather than the wrong PU.
Seems like you went overboard with Seafoam. Hold off on the Seafoam until the next decade.
Get a decent laptop so you can see what you write.
It calls for 5w20 and I probably should have just got the PP but I have had people tell me they use 5w30 or even 10w30 or higher all the time in my year range 4.6 without issue so I did not think half 5w30 would be a big deal plus when Walmart is selling PU for less then PP it is kind of hard for me to buy a lower grade of oil for more money.
As far as using to much Seafoam this is the new spray type and when I talked to the people at Seafoam about using it in my dual throttle body LHS they told me to just use the whole can and it worked wonders. With this truck I used a half a can and then the other half in a buddy's 5.0 Explorer.
I work over nights right now as a night watchman for my family's fireworks stand and a PlayStation with a 1970's TV is all I have down there if I what to get on the internet.
What "problem" were you trying to "fix" with this magical pale oil/solvent blend?
Again this is the spray type that you spray into your throttle body. I did not put it in my oil and I even sprayed it a week before this oil change. I am starting to think it's the thicker oil because I did not really notice this before the oil change and it seems to have less noise when the sun is out or the car is warm.
What I was looking to fix was The truck just seemed to idle a bit rough and with what it did for that old LHS I figured why not try it in the SUV.
I didn't say you mixed it into your oil, the product itself is a blend of stoddard solvent/pale oil, that's why I said that.
When was the last time the plugs were changed? PCV valve? Are you able to check the misfire counts with a scanner that could show you a failing COP?
I'm not a fan of spraying/pouring "Peter Pan in a can" into an engine in hopes that it will magically fix whatever "ailment" your engine seems afflicted with.
That being said, there ARE engines that are prone to carbon build-up in the combustion chamber (spoiler: the Modular isn't one of them) and GM, as well as Chrysler both have specific products targeted at this issue. GM's is their Combustion Chamber Cleaner (which I've tested in terms of its carbon removal capability on a Ford IAC against Seafoam.... the GM product is superior.) and I don't recall what the Chrysler product is, but it does the same thing. The GM engines develop a carbon "knock", which is literally the built-up carbon on the piston or the quench area resulting in contact between the piston/carbon and the head/carbon. The cleaner is supposed to be sprayed into the intake until the engine stalls and then you let it sit for a while to dissolve the carbon, which alleviates the issue.