It intrigues me too. Don't know why, as 0W-30 isn't really necessary in my climate, but that grade has always interested me. I'll probably be looking into their 10W-30 for winter use in the Roadmaster, and keep my Kendall 30wt for summer months. I know that's old school, but hey, its old school oil.
Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oil
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I think they all would do the trick nicely. It is good to see some variety, there.
I heard from Ken today and verified all 11 grades are still going to be available, there will still be two 30wts, a break in oil and a high performance, and the motorcycle 10W-40 is still partial synthetic. I didn't ask about the MC 20W-50, and I didn't ask about the color. He assures me nothing has changed except bottle and name, so it will still be green, and will still be the same formula.
Originally Posted By: Red91
I heard from Ken today and verified all 11 grades are still going to be available, there will still be two 30wts, a break in oil and a high performance, and the motorcycle 10W-40 is still partial synthetic. I didn't ask about the MC 20W-50, and I didn't ask about the color. He assures me nothing has changed except bottle and name, so it will still be green, and will still be the same formula.
I admit to losing track in this thread, but why is the color important again?
I heard from Ken today and verified all 11 grades are still going to be available, there will still be two 30wts, a break in oil and a high performance, and the motorcycle 10W-40 is still partial synthetic. I didn't ask about the MC 20W-50, and I didn't ask about the color. He assures me nothing has changed except bottle and name, so it will still be green, and will still be the same formula.
I admit to losing track in this thread, but why is the color important again?
The green dye is used to indicate Pennsylvania crude base oil. Its just part of the package, and I like it.
New packaging for the Penn Grade 1 product
Originally Posted By: Red91
The green dye is used to indicate Pennsylvania crude base oil. Its just part of the package, and I like it.
Red...........Not meaning to question you, but are you sure about the "green dye"? I had always heard that the Pennsylvania crude oil naturally had a green tint to it, but I could be wrong.
The green dye is used to indicate Pennsylvania crude base oil. Its just part of the package, and I like it.
Red...........Not meaning to question you, but are you sure about the "green dye"? I had always heard that the Pennsylvania crude oil naturally had a green tint to it, but I could be wrong.
Honestly no I'm not. I have a VOA posted of SJ Kendall GT-1 30wt in the VOA section, and fresh from the bottle it shows 136 ppm of copper, which member SonOfJoe theorized may be copper oleate used for dye, but may also be part of the old school antiwear add pack.
Question, as you are a Brad Penn user, does the color change from green to gold to black, or green to black? I ask because I've yet to check the oil in the Roadmaster, and I don't know if it's still green or not. Online research is conflicting, and I didn't think to ask Ken if the color was dye, whether it be partially dyed or fully.
Question, as you are a Brad Penn user, does the color change from green to gold to black, or green to black? I ask because I've yet to check the oil in the Roadmaster, and I don't know if it's still green or not. Online research is conflicting, and I didn't think to ask Ken if the color was dye, whether it be partially dyed or fully.
Originally Posted By: Red91
Honestly no I'm not. I have a VOA posted of SJ Kendall GT-1 30wt in the VOA section, and fresh from the bottle it shows 136 ppm of copper, which member SonOfJoe theorized may be copper oleate used for dye, but may also be part of the old school antiwear add pack.
Question, as you are a Brad Penn user, does the color change from green to gold to black, or green to black? I ask because I've yet to check the oil in the Roadmaster, and I don't know if it's still green or not. Online research is conflicting, and I didn't think to ask Ken if the color was dye, whether it be partially dyed or fully.
Been using Brad Penn in my Chevelle for about 5 years. It continues to have a green tint to it as the miles increase, but it does darken. I attribute the darkening to the fact that the engine runs abit on the rich side, which is probably contaminating the oil some. This isn't a clean running computer controlled EFI car....running a custom built Holley 1000 cfm carb on a BBC 496 making between 675-700 fwhp.
This is mainly a street driven vehicle and I keep the oil change frequently. Reason being, the solid roller lifters I'm running use a bushing style bearing instead of needle bearings. Listening to the experts, they say this type of lifter is very susceptible to dirty oil and manufacturers recommend fresh oil around 1500 miles. I've been changing mine near that interval.
One thing that I have notice with this oil is, several years ago I had to pull the motor and oil pan to check into something. While off and inspecting, I notice there was a thin coat of oil that was clinging to the internals in the engine. Rods, crank, bearing caps, etc. Even when the motor was right side up on the engine stand (and the pan still off), the oil stayed clinging to the internal components. Not sure if this means anything, just never really seen that before.
Honestly no I'm not. I have a VOA posted of SJ Kendall GT-1 30wt in the VOA section, and fresh from the bottle it shows 136 ppm of copper, which member SonOfJoe theorized may be copper oleate used for dye, but may also be part of the old school antiwear add pack.
Question, as you are a Brad Penn user, does the color change from green to gold to black, or green to black? I ask because I've yet to check the oil in the Roadmaster, and I don't know if it's still green or not. Online research is conflicting, and I didn't think to ask Ken if the color was dye, whether it be partially dyed or fully.
Been using Brad Penn in my Chevelle for about 5 years. It continues to have a green tint to it as the miles increase, but it does darken. I attribute the darkening to the fact that the engine runs abit on the rich side, which is probably contaminating the oil some. This isn't a clean running computer controlled EFI car....running a custom built Holley 1000 cfm carb on a BBC 496 making between 675-700 fwhp.
This is mainly a street driven vehicle and I keep the oil change frequently. Reason being, the solid roller lifters I'm running use a bushing style bearing instead of needle bearings. Listening to the experts, they say this type of lifter is very susceptible to dirty oil and manufacturers recommend fresh oil around 1500 miles. I've been changing mine near that interval.
One thing that I have notice with this oil is, several years ago I had to pull the motor and oil pan to check into something. While off and inspecting, I notice there was a thin coat of oil that was clinging to the internals in the engine. Rods, crank, bearing caps, etc. Even when the motor was right side up on the engine stand (and the pan still off), the oil stayed clinging to the internal components. Not sure if this means anything, just never really seen that before.
I think that's one of the benefits of green Kendall GT-1/Penn Grade 1 is the oil has a tendency to stay attached to engine parts and cylinder walls well after shut down.
I'm supposed to be hearing from a distributor next week, and hopefully we can do a trial run of dealing Penn Grade products.
I'm supposed to be hearing from a distributor next week, and hopefully we can do a trial run of dealing Penn Grade products.
Originally Posted By: Red91
I think that's one of the benefits of green Kendall GT-1/Penn Grade 1 is the oil has a tendency to stay attached to engine parts and cylinder walls well after shut down.
I think all oils do that. I've bought a 10-year old transmission for an Accord and although it was drained of all fluid the inside was coated with ATF. I also have bought a 12-year old engine for a Mazda 626 that was drained yet was covered in oil inside. Both of which sat many years at the junk yard.
No oil drains completely off a metal surface. At the very least a monolayer will exist but much more will be there for many years.
I think that's one of the benefits of green Kendall GT-1/Penn Grade 1 is the oil has a tendency to stay attached to engine parts and cylinder walls well after shut down.
I think all oils do that. I've bought a 10-year old transmission for an Accord and although it was drained of all fluid the inside was coated with ATF. I also have bought a 12-year old engine for a Mazda 626 that was drained yet was covered in oil inside. Both of which sat many years at the junk yard.
No oil drains completely off a metal surface. At the very least a monolayer will exist but much more will be there for many years.
Right off the Castrol website it says, "The intelligent molecules in Castrol GTX Magnatec are specially formulated to cling to critical engine parts and to dramatically reduce engine wear". Comes in a green bottle.
I would not run GTX Magnatec in a high performance flat tappet engine. Its OK if you aren't impressed by Penn Grade 1 but there is something to this oil. Its not all marketing and comes highly recommended by numerous camshaft manufacturers and performance engine builders. Member OneEyeJack uses Redline oil in his Honda. Is it needed, doubt it, but his results are impressive and he's had years of great service from it.
I'm not sure if you're lightly gesting me or trolling, but I think its the former. That's fine, but it isn't doing anything positive for the thread. I am impressed by this product and am very interested in it, as are most of the members who have posted here. There are unique clinging properties to this formulation which make it ideal for flat tappet and performance engines. Not to mention the zinc and phosphorus fortification.
I'm not sure if you're lightly gesting me or trolling, but I think its the former. That's fine, but it isn't doing anything positive for the thread. I am impressed by this product and am very interested in it, as are most of the members who have posted here. There are unique clinging properties to this formulation which make it ideal for flat tappet and performance engines. Not to mention the zinc and phosphorus fortification.
What sort of data would lead you to believe that there is something special about the oil? I mean other than believing there is something special.
An honest question and one that should be answered by the marketer.
An honest question and one that should be answered by the marketer.
What sort of data are you looking for? Admittedly my opinion is derived from the minimalistic aspects of the oil, but I think that's enough. Its a simple yet highly effective oil. The formula has been around for five decades. It comes highly recommended by top camshaft manufacturers (which is important considering the delicate nature of flat tappet cam break in and longevity) and has been trusted by engine builders for years.
That's an honest answer.
That's an honest answer.
No problem cven. Its been kind of fun doing this. Learned a lot. Actually now I'm kind of excited to see the new packaging come out.
Yeah really - Brad Penn / Penn Grade 1 has been a trusted go-to oil for decades in the flat tappet built engine world. No one doubts the quality. It's in new cam literature shipped with cams. It's also the obvious alternative to VR-1 if that is not working out for you for some reason...
Generally cheaper than Redline. What's not to like?
Generally cheaper than Redline. What's not to like?
Lol I guess because its not cheap, API SN, and at Wal Mart.
Personally if Isky, Crower, and Howard recommend it, what more do you need?
BTW I've got nothing against VR-1, but personally it would be my 3rd choice, after Penn Grade 1 and Delo.
Personally if Isky, Crower, and Howard recommend it, what more do you need?
BTW I've got nothing against VR-1, but personally it would be my 3rd choice, after Penn Grade 1 and Delo.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
What sort of data would lead you to believe that there is something special about the oil? I mean other than believing there is something special.
Marketing aside, what I find is attractive is that they have a few higher ZDDP options for those interested, in a variety of grades. VR1, one of the better alternatives, is somewhat limited in grades. Other options are often purely racing oils. While this stuff isn't cheap, it's still priced more attractively than other boutiques advertising the higher ZDDP content.
Of all stupid things, VR1 up here is quite cheap, cheaper than most other conventionals on the shelf at regular, quart pricing. Yet, those that carry it only stock 20w-50, which is worse than useless for about half the year.
What sort of data would lead you to believe that there is something special about the oil? I mean other than believing there is something special.
Marketing aside, what I find is attractive is that they have a few higher ZDDP options for those interested, in a variety of grades. VR1, one of the better alternatives, is somewhat limited in grades. Other options are often purely racing oils. While this stuff isn't cheap, it's still priced more attractively than other boutiques advertising the higher ZDDP content.
Of all stupid things, VR1 up here is quite cheap, cheaper than most other conventionals on the shelf at regular, quart pricing. Yet, those that carry it only stock 20w-50, which is worse than useless for about half the year.
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