Peak Global Extended Life Waffle

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I want to replace the DexCool (yes the real Havoline stuff) that I put in my 1990 GMC a couple of years ago with something that has less potential to cause problems. So far it has worked fine, as I keep the system clean and topped up, and the engine doesn't have any mechanical problems.

I'm thinking about the Peak Global, mainly because I have a truly global garage; American, Japanese, German, and Italian(OK the Italian doesn't count as it's air cooled). I have three different, partial bottles of coolant sitting around. I'd really like to trim that back

The GMC originally called for the plain old green stuff. The BMW specifies a nitrite free coolant, and Subaru doesn't seem to care. The Subaru brand I bought for a top off, if needed, (I won't mix brands) appears to be a silicate free OAT type coolant, as is the Peak Global.

The waffle is that I think that Zerex G-05 may be a better choice for the GMC. It appears to be a heavier duty coolant than the Peak Global. The truck is used mainly for towing in the summer and sits for weeks or even longer at times, especially during the winter. The G-05 contains nitrites and is not suitable for the BMW K and may not be the best choice for the Subaru.

Would you go ahead and use the Peak Global in everything or go ahead with the G-05 in the GMC iron lump? Two bottles hanging around are better than three.

Ed
 
I would not put waffles in your cooling system, as I think it may clog your heater core and radiator tubes.
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I'll shut up now and let someone give you a real answer!
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I'd keep the GMC on a Dexcool compatable coolant to avoid an incompatabilities. (make sure you have a good radiator cap and keep the overflow bottle full)

I think the Prestone 5/150 Dexcool compatable is better than the real Dexcool. Ignore the 5 yr life and change it every 2-3 yrs. Use distilled water.

I've heard good things about G05 but I wouldn't put the GMC thru a change from Green to Dexcool to G05 unless your committed to do very thorough flush.

Peak Global sounds like "snake oil". I would want to see more data before using it.
 
Havoline DexCool has worked well in my Cavalier for now over 100K miles. The water pump did crap out, but it was the bearing complaining. I changed all the hoses and thermostat, along with removing the radiator for a "cleaning in the sink." Everything was clean with no deposits. Not "an orangeman fan," but it seems to have worked well here. And yes, I change it every other year!
 
I think after reading a lot about Dex-cool I'll change it every 3 years (40 to 50k)and change the radiator cap each time. The problem seems to be when air mixes with Dex-cool(hence the new cap each time.) I have an 02' GM 3.1 and hope to avoid problems with leaking Intake manifold gasket. What are your thoughts? Also is there any preventive maintenance or driving style that can minimize chances of i-m gasket leaks? What about using Barsleaks as a PM.
 
Zerex G-05 went into the GMC today (complete flush of course). This is just too good of a coolant not to use if it is appropriate for the application.

The Dex-Cool had been in the truck for three years. It looked to be in perfect shape, completely clear, and what I could see of the radiator core looked spotless. There was no build-up at the radiator cap. The cap also looked as if it had just been put on.

The thing that made me want to change to something besides the Havoline Dex-Cool was the potential for problems. I have seen evidence of this with my truck as formation of heavy, white deposits were it sloshed out of the overflow tank while off-roading, and at a very minor leak at the thermostat housing (hopefully fixed today).

From what I saw, there is probably no reason to change from Dex-Cool as long as you keep the system clean, topped off, and in good condition. I made the change because it was time for a flush/fill anyway, and I think the G-05 is a better chemistry.

I used the following flushing procedure this time , since I was planning on replacing the thermostat housing anyway. I removed the thermostat, replaced the housing, opened the radiator drain, turned the heater to high, put the garden hose in the radiator fill neck and let the truck idle until the water flowing out showed no traces of coolant. I then pulled the lower radiator hose to drain as much as possible from the block, flushed the recovery tank, reassembled everything, added the proper amount of coolant, and then topped off with distilled water. (Whew!)

Ed

[ April 25, 2004, 02:18 AM: Message edited by: edhackett ]
 
Maybe it's overkill, but after I'm done with a garden hose flush I'll drain the system as best I can and then fill it with nothing but distilled water.

Run the truck for awhile and do another drain and refill with distilled water.

Run the truck again and drain. Now add the antifreeze equal to half the capacity of the cooling system and top off with distilled water.

This way, the water in the cooling system will be mostly distilled. The way you did it probably resulted in mostly tap water and then a little distilled water when you topped off. It's my experince that for most vehicles you can only drain about 1/2 the system's total capacity. (maybe more if you can remove the block's drain plugs).


quote:

Originally posted by edhackett:
Zerex G-05 went into the GMC today (complete flush of course). This is just too good of a coolant not to use if it is appropriate for the application.

The Dex-Cool had been in the truck for three years. It looked to be in perfect shape, completely clear, and what I could see of the radiator core looked spotless. There was no build-up at the radiator cap. The cap also looked as if it had just been put on.

The thing that made me want to change to something besides the Havoline Dex-Cool was the potential for problems. I have seen evidence of this with my truck as formation of heavy, white deposits were it sloshed out of the overflow tank while off-roading, and at a very minor leak at the thermostat housing (hopefully fixed today).

From what I saw, there is probably no reason to change from Dex-Cool as long as you keep the system clean, topped off, and in good condition. I made the change because it was time for a flush/fill anyway, and I think the G-05 is a better chemistry.

I used the following flushing procedure this time , since I was planning on replacing the thermostat housing anyway. I removed the thermostat, replaced the housing, opened the radiator drain, turned the heater to high, put the garden hose in the radiator fill neck and let the truck idle until the water flowing out showed no traces of coolant. I then pulled the lower radiator hose to drain as much as possible from the block, flushed the recovery tank, reassembled everything, added the proper amount of coolant, and then topped off with distilled water. (Whew!)

Ed


 
A distilled water flush is not overkill. I would have done the same had I been filling with treated(Chlorine) or high Total Disolved Solids water. In this case I was filling from my private well that has water quality more than adequate for cooling system use.

You are right about the amount of water left in the block after draining. It was nearly half of the system capacity. I was just able to add the proper amount of antifreeze. About a quart of distilled went into the radiator, plus what was used to fill the recovery tank.

Ed
 
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