PB Blaster wins again!

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Liquid Wrench over PB Blaster. Tried it on my exhaust system overnight and PB Blaster squealed like a pig. The other end of the flange I used Liquid Wrench and the next morning, came off easy. I sprayed the PB end of the pipe with Liquid Wrench, waited an hour and it too came off easy. Would love to try some Kroil next time.
 
I'm planning to change the turbocharger on my Saab next month. I know the M8 exhaust mounting studs have a reputation for getting frozen. I was thinking about buying some PB to soak them overnight, but maybe I'll try Kroil instead. Or mix up some acetone/ATF.
 
Heat the studs up and use some wax. It's what got my turbo studs out. PB and the acetone/atx didn't help. Bad this was it was stainless steel studs in stainless steel manifold.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Heat the studs up and use some wax. It's what got my turbo studs out. PB and the acetone/atx didn't help. Bad this was it was stainless steel studs in stainless steel manifold.


Please elaborate. Stainless steel is not used in many manifold designs, I would love to hear more of this...
 
If you were to look at the manifold and studs I have they don't look to be SS as there is the typical rust but both are non-magnetic. What happens is either the threads where the nuts are strip off or the stud threads inside the manifold strip out. Sometimes too the stud breaks off. It's a terrible deign as SS on SS will gall with heat. They should have used SS studs in cast iron manifold.

At any rate I heated them up and used some wax. Then carefully worked the nut or stud back and forth. Still managed to get one std stripped out and it will not come out of the manifold.

This is on my 2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2L.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
If you were to look at the manifold and studs I have they don't look to be SS as there is the typical rust but both are non-magnetic. What happens is either the threads where the nuts are strip off or the stud threads inside the manifold strip out. Sometimes too the stud breaks off. It's a terrible deign as SS on SS will gall with heat. They should have used SS studs in cast iron manifold.

At any rate I heated them up and used some wax. Then carefully worked the nut or stud back and forth. Still managed to get one std stripped out and it will not come out of the manifold.

This is on my 2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2L.


That's where I was going, I guess they may have to update that a bit. The line between corrosion resistance and long term functionality got blurred a bit...
 
I use to use SS nut and bolts on my exhaust. Now I use SS bolts but hardened steel nuts. The nuts need to be replaced usually but they come apart easily.

It's interesting the manifold to head bolt are regular steel. The turbo to cat studs are the same [censored] SS. But you can drill these out and just use nuts and bolts. Not so on the manifold as two of the four cannot be drilled through or you have a hole into the manifold interior.
 
I'm a big fan of Open and Shut by Lawson Products.

a few weeks back I had a couple of lug nuts on a trailer that I couldn't break loose, I tried a 1/2" impact (cheap version) and a pull handle with a cheater bar, they wouldn't budge. Just before getting [censored] and throwing a wrench I decided to spray them down and try again the next day. We i gave the a good shot of Open and Shut, walked the can back to my cabinet and said what the [censored] lets give them one more try with the impact, they came off like they weren't even tight. Been using the stuff for a while, but that really impressed me.

If you know a Lawson Rep hit him up for a sample can, that is how I got my first one
smile.gif
 
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