Mine is a Mazda MPV, year 2000, had it new, it has now 160K. I replaced the brakes in 2010, and recently took the wheels off to inspect the brakes, re-lube the caliper pins etc. What I found was that the passenger side inner pad is worn faster then the inner pad on the drive side. The driver side pad worn evenly. I had NAPA Adaptive One, and they were installed properly. I understand the inner pads usually worn faster then outer pads, but why my drive side is OK, but passenger side inner pad took the hit? The brake caliper upper pin is metal to metal, the lower pin is metal to rubber (it has a rubber sleeve inside of the bore). Pins were working OK, no rust, seize, etc. Any idea why? Thanks.
passenger side brake pad wear
- Thread starter windeye
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Were the pads free in the caliper mount. If there is any resistance at all to pad movement, then the pads will drag. This could be your problem. Possible sticking caliper, or proportioning valve. Also, what are you using to lube the caliper pins. I find that grease dries out. I only use silicone paste now, and it works great.
+1 STICKY CALIPER
Originally Posted By: Eddie
+1 STICKY CALIPER
+1. Also replace the brake line for that side. The part that attaches to the caliper. The inside of the rubber can come loose and cause the fluid to be restricted and continue pressure on the caliper.
+1 STICKY CALIPER
+1. Also replace the brake line for that side. The part that attaches to the caliper. The inside of the rubber can come loose and cause the fluid to be restricted and continue pressure on the caliper.
At that mileage/time, replace both calipers.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Eddie
+1 STICKY CALIPER
+1. Also replace the brake line for that side. The part that attaches to the caliper. The inside of the rubber can come loose and cause the fluid to be restricted and continue pressure on the caliper.
has anybody actully seen that happen? I read about it but have never seen it in my 20+ yrs doing autp repair
Originally Posted By: Eddie
+1 STICKY CALIPER
+1. Also replace the brake line for that side. The part that attaches to the caliper. The inside of the rubber can come loose and cause the fluid to be restricted and continue pressure on the caliper.
has anybody actully seen that happen? I read about it but have never seen it in my 20+ yrs doing autp repair
The crown that is built into roads for rain water management makes the passenger side wear faster. Anyone in the brake business will always check your passenger side brakes first, as that is where more wear occurs.
Thanks for chiming in for the root cause. I did replace both calipers two years ago when I replaced the rotor and pads. The rotors were NAPA Ultra Premium. Calipers were NAPA's Eclipse. They are all refurbished (same with other stores/brand). I did not however replace the rubber brake line. The pads were easy to remove, not bound to rotor. The lube I used was Premax brake lube (purple in color), and it dried up. So this I used moly grease on top pin (metal to metal), and rubber grease (pink color from toyota) on the lower pin where there's rubber sleeve over the pin. I'll have to check the caliper action with a helper. Thanks again.
+1. Just about every car I have ever owned has worn the passenger side faster. Unless it is a huge difference between sides you probably don't have a mechanical problem.
Originally Posted By: hate2work
The crown that is built into roads for rain water management makes the passenger side wear faster. Anyone in the brake business will always check your passenger side brakes first, as that is where more wear occurs.
interesting perspective....but why (not that I don't believe the theory), could you explain?
The crown that is built into roads for rain water management makes the passenger side wear faster. Anyone in the brake business will always check your passenger side brakes first, as that is where more wear occurs.
interesting perspective....but why (not that I don't believe the theory), could you explain?
Originally Posted By: windeye
Thanks for chiming in for the root cause. I did replace both calipers two years ago when I replaced the rotor and pads. The rotors were NAPA Ultra Premium. Calipers were NAPA's Eclipse. They are all refurbished (same with other stores/brand). I did not however replace the rubber brake line. The pads were easy to remove, not bound to rotor. The lube I used was Premax brake lube (purple in color), and it dried up. So this I used moly grease on top pin (metal to metal), and rubber grease (pink color from toyota) on the lower pin where there's rubber sleeve over the pin. I'll have to check the caliper action with a helper. Thanks again.
Moly Grease will dry up and cause the slide pin to stick.
I've seen it multiple times. Next time you do a tire rotation, clean upper and lower slide pins and apply silicone paste, or sil-glyde. Then you wont have a problem with sticking slide pins. Sil-Glyde is about 5 bucks at Napa.
Thanks for chiming in for the root cause. I did replace both calipers two years ago when I replaced the rotor and pads. The rotors were NAPA Ultra Premium. Calipers were NAPA's Eclipse. They are all refurbished (same with other stores/brand). I did not however replace the rubber brake line. The pads were easy to remove, not bound to rotor. The lube I used was Premax brake lube (purple in color), and it dried up. So this I used moly grease on top pin (metal to metal), and rubber grease (pink color from toyota) on the lower pin where there's rubber sleeve over the pin. I'll have to check the caliper action with a helper. Thanks again.
Moly Grease will dry up and cause the slide pin to stick.
I've seen it multiple times. Next time you do a tire rotation, clean upper and lower slide pins and apply silicone paste, or sil-glyde. Then you wont have a problem with sticking slide pins. Sil-Glyde is about 5 bucks at Napa.
Originally Posted By: windeye
Originally Posted By: hate2work
The crown that is built into roads for rain water management makes the passenger side wear faster. Anyone in the brake business will always check your passenger side brakes first, as that is where more wear occurs.
interesting perspective....but why (not that I don't believe the theory), could you explain?
Because of the road crown, the right side brakes have to stop a larger proportion of the car's weight than the left side brakes.
Originally Posted By: hate2work
The crown that is built into roads for rain water management makes the passenger side wear faster. Anyone in the brake business will always check your passenger side brakes first, as that is where more wear occurs.
interesting perspective....but why (not that I don't believe the theory), could you explain?
Because of the road crown, the right side brakes have to stop a larger proportion of the car's weight than the left side brakes.
I have never seen that passenger side brakes wear more than the driver's side.
BTW, road crowns can work both ways, depending on what lane you are in.
And what about the driver's weight on only the OTHER side?
Why does this not make the driver's side wear faster?
If braking or wear was biased, then the car should exhibit a pull to one side or the other.
But on paper, there is some shift in weight to that low side.
BTW, road crowns can work both ways, depending on what lane you are in.
And what about the driver's weight on only the OTHER side?
Why does this not make the driver's side wear faster?
If braking or wear was biased, then the car should exhibit a pull to one side or the other.
But on paper, there is some shift in weight to that low side.
Originally Posted By: JustinC25
Originally Posted By: windeye
Thanks for chiming in for the root cause. I did replace both calipers two years ago when I replaced the rotor and pads. The rotors were NAPA Ultra Premium. Calipers were NAPA's Eclipse. They are all refurbished (same with other stores/brand). I did not however replace the rubber brake line. The pads were easy to remove, not bound to rotor. The lube I used was Premax brake lube (purple in color), and it dried up. So this I used moly grease on top pin (metal to metal), and rubber grease (pink color from toyota) on the lower pin where there's rubber sleeve over the pin. I'll have to check the caliper action with a helper. Thanks again.
Moly Grease will dry up and cause the slide pin to stick.
I've seen it multiple times. Next time you do a tire rotation, clean upper and lower slide pins and apply silicone paste, or sil-glyde. Then you wont have a problem with sticking slide pins. Sil-Glyde is about 5 bucks at Napa.
Thanks for the tip. I do have a tube of syl-glide, as well as a bottle of Permax silicone grease. Will try the syl-glide in the fall.
Originally Posted By: windeye
Thanks for chiming in for the root cause. I did replace both calipers two years ago when I replaced the rotor and pads. The rotors were NAPA Ultra Premium. Calipers were NAPA's Eclipse. They are all refurbished (same with other stores/brand). I did not however replace the rubber brake line. The pads were easy to remove, not bound to rotor. The lube I used was Premax brake lube (purple in color), and it dried up. So this I used moly grease on top pin (metal to metal), and rubber grease (pink color from toyota) on the lower pin where there's rubber sleeve over the pin. I'll have to check the caliper action with a helper. Thanks again.
Moly Grease will dry up and cause the slide pin to stick.
I've seen it multiple times. Next time you do a tire rotation, clean upper and lower slide pins and apply silicone paste, or sil-glyde. Then you wont have a problem with sticking slide pins. Sil-Glyde is about 5 bucks at Napa.
Thanks for the tip. I do have a tube of syl-glide, as well as a bottle of Permax silicone grease. Will try the syl-glide in the fall.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I have never seen that passenger side brakes wear more than the driver's side.
BTW, road crowns can work both ways, depending on what lane you are in.
Maybe if you drive on the wrong side of the road lol Do you mean the freeway? We don't apply our brakes nearly as much there as on slower county/city roads.
And what about the driver's weight on only the OTHER side?
Why does this not make the driver's side wear faster?
It just contributes to the cars overall weight.
If braking or wear was biased, then the car should exhibit a pull to one side or the other.
Not really, even braking is determined by the relativity of the piston to the pad, not the thickness of the pad.
But on paper, there is some shift in weight to that low side.
Not only on paper, but in practice as well. It was much more noticable on older, heavier cars.
I have never seen that passenger side brakes wear more than the driver's side.
BTW, road crowns can work both ways, depending on what lane you are in.
Maybe if you drive on the wrong side of the road lol Do you mean the freeway? We don't apply our brakes nearly as much there as on slower county/city roads.
And what about the driver's weight on only the OTHER side?
Why does this not make the driver's side wear faster?
It just contributes to the cars overall weight.
If braking or wear was biased, then the car should exhibit a pull to one side or the other.
Not really, even braking is determined by the relativity of the piston to the pad, not the thickness of the pad.
But on paper, there is some shift in weight to that low side.
Not only on paper, but in practice as well. It was much more noticable on older, heavier cars.
I have experienced excess wear from wheel to another before. In one case it ended up being a lazy ABS speed sensor. In another bleeding the caliper of old fluid helped. I no longer force the old fluid back into the caliper/MC without a bleed.
My 2c is betting on the new calipers you installed is bad. It may not be the piston, but the pins. This is the reason I bought rebuild kit and replace all the rubber on my own at my 200kM cars.
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