Low beam passenger side headlight is out. The high beam works. I checked the fuses and they are fine. I also tried replacing the bulb, and checked for any loose connection. The low beam did come back on one time randomly. I'm not sure where to start.
Passenger headlight out
- Thread starter buster
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Get a volt-ohmmeter and go to work. Oh, the younger generation.
It is odd to have wiring issues on a relatively new car. Check all the connectors....
It is odd to have wiring issues on a relatively new car. Check all the connectors....
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Get a volt-ohmmeter and go to work. Oh, the younger generation.
Yes, us "young kids" are completely reliant on DTC trouble codes and what the Technical Service Bulletins say.
Get a volt-ohmmeter and go to work. Oh, the younger generation.
Yes, us "young kids" are completely reliant on DTC trouble codes and what the Technical Service Bulletins say.
Build a relay harness triggered off the 'good' light.
Can't you just change the bulb out? they are like $10 each only.
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Can't you just change the bulb out? they are like $10 each only.
Originally Posted By: buster
Low beam passenger side headlight is out. The high beam works. I checked the fuses and they are fine. I also tried replacing the bulb, and checked for any loose connection. The low beam did come back on one time randomly. I'm not sure where to start.
Time to break out the multimeter! Good luck
Can't you just change the bulb out? they are like $10 each only.
Originally Posted By: buster
Low beam passenger side headlight is out. The high beam works. I checked the fuses and they are fine. I also tried replacing the bulb, and checked for any loose connection. The low beam did come back on one time randomly. I'm not sure where to start.
Time to break out the multimeter! Good luck
So, did you inspect your new bulb to make sure that it didn't blow out already? Where was this new bulb made?
You have a bad bulb or short. Short should be easy enough to trace out. If you pulled to hard on the wire for the bulb connector, start there.
You have a bad bulb or short. Short should be easy enough to trace out. If you pulled to hard on the wire for the bulb connector, start there.
Originally Posted By: NYSteve
Build a relay harness triggered off the 'good' light.
This is exactly the strategery my dad employs when repairing pretty much anything. Who cares exactly what the problem is? He goes straight to a solution!
Personally I would start checking for bad connections and corroded, pushed-back, or otherwise damaged pins. Seeings how this problem is only affecting one bulb, I'd bet the problem is a bent or corroded pin in the socket or the connector at that headlight (depending on how the thing is set up).
It's time to get out the multimeter. But remember one thing: Just because you have 12 volts and a good ground with the circuit disconnected... that doesn't mean you have a good connection. A single, hair-thin and partially corroded strand of wire will give a proper voltage reading if no current is flowing. But as soon as you try to flow current (i.e. complete the circuit), you'll lose all voltage downstream of the bad connection. This is a simple enough concept, but I've seen it confound many an otherwise competent mechanic.
Build a relay harness triggered off the 'good' light.
This is exactly the strategery my dad employs when repairing pretty much anything. Who cares exactly what the problem is? He goes straight to a solution!
Personally I would start checking for bad connections and corroded, pushed-back, or otherwise damaged pins. Seeings how this problem is only affecting one bulb, I'd bet the problem is a bent or corroded pin in the socket or the connector at that headlight (depending on how the thing is set up).
It's time to get out the multimeter. But remember one thing: Just because you have 12 volts and a good ground with the circuit disconnected... that doesn't mean you have a good connection. A single, hair-thin and partially corroded strand of wire will give a proper voltage reading if no current is flowing. But as soon as you try to flow current (i.e. complete the circuit), you'll lose all voltage downstream of the bad connection. This is a simple enough concept, but I've seen it confound many an otherwise competent mechanic.
Originally Posted By: onion
Originally Posted By: NYSteve
Build a relay harness triggered off the 'good' light.
This is exactly the strategery my dad employs when repairing pretty much anything. Who cares exactly what the problem is? He goes straight to a solution!
Personally I would start checking for bad connections and corroded, pushed-back, or otherwise damaged pins. Seeings how this problem is only affecting one bulb, I'd bet the problem is a bent or corroded pin in the socket or the connector at that headlight (depending on how the thing is set up).
It's time to get out the multimeter. But remember one thing: Just because you have 12 volts and a good ground with the circuit disconnected... that doesn't mean you have a good connection. A single, hair-thin and partially corroded strand of wire will give a proper voltage reading if no current is flowing. But as soon as you try to flow current (i.e. complete the circuit), you'll lose all voltage downstream of the bad connection. This is a simple enough concept, but I've seen it confound many an otherwise competent mechanic.
Ha! I should have explained myself better. This happened on my Volvo, and yes I did pull out the multimeter and I'm under 30! Anyway, Volvo has a circuit under the dash with solid state relays for each headlight. Each relay is soldered into the circuit, so you can't just replace them. $800 new circuit vs. $30 headlight harness - winning!
Originally Posted By: NYSteve
Build a relay harness triggered off the 'good' light.
This is exactly the strategery my dad employs when repairing pretty much anything. Who cares exactly what the problem is? He goes straight to a solution!
Personally I would start checking for bad connections and corroded, pushed-back, or otherwise damaged pins. Seeings how this problem is only affecting one bulb, I'd bet the problem is a bent or corroded pin in the socket or the connector at that headlight (depending on how the thing is set up).
It's time to get out the multimeter. But remember one thing: Just because you have 12 volts and a good ground with the circuit disconnected... that doesn't mean you have a good connection. A single, hair-thin and partially corroded strand of wire will give a proper voltage reading if no current is flowing. But as soon as you try to flow current (i.e. complete the circuit), you'll lose all voltage downstream of the bad connection. This is a simple enough concept, but I've seen it confound many an otherwise competent mechanic.
Ha! I should have explained myself better. This happened on my Volvo, and yes I did pull out the multimeter and I'm under 30! Anyway, Volvo has a circuit under the dash with solid state relays for each headlight. Each relay is soldered into the circuit, so you can't just replace them. $800 new circuit vs. $30 headlight harness - winning!
In the real old days we just used a test light. VOM came later and then Codes. Ha
Originally Posted By: NYSteve
Originally Posted By: onion
Originally Posted By: NYSteve
Build a relay harness triggered off the 'good' light.
This is exactly the strategery my dad employs when repairing pretty much anything. Who cares exactly what the problem is? He goes straight to a solution!
Personally I would start checking for bad connections and corroded, pushed-back, or otherwise damaged pins. Seeings how this problem is only affecting one bulb, I'd bet the problem is a bent or corroded pin in the socket or the connector at that headlight (depending on how the thing is set up).
It's time to get out the multimeter. But remember one thing: Just because you have 12 volts and a good ground with the circuit disconnected... that doesn't mean you have a good connection. A single, hair-thin and partially corroded strand of wire will give a proper voltage reading if no current is flowing. But as soon as you try to flow current (i.e. complete the circuit), you'll lose all voltage downstream of the bad connection. This is a simple enough concept, but I've seen it confound many an otherwise competent mechanic.
Ha! I should have explained myself better. This happened on my Volvo, and yes I did pull out the multimeter and I'm under 30! Anyway, Volvo has a circuit under the dash with solid state relays for each headlight. Each relay is soldered into the circuit, so you can't just replace them. $800 new circuit vs. $30 headlight harness - winning!
Nothing wrong with a fix like that. I just don't like to re-wire things as a first option. But it can be cheap and effective as a last resort.
Originally Posted By: onion
Originally Posted By: NYSteve
Build a relay harness triggered off the 'good' light.
This is exactly the strategery my dad employs when repairing pretty much anything. Who cares exactly what the problem is? He goes straight to a solution!
Personally I would start checking for bad connections and corroded, pushed-back, or otherwise damaged pins. Seeings how this problem is only affecting one bulb, I'd bet the problem is a bent or corroded pin in the socket or the connector at that headlight (depending on how the thing is set up).
It's time to get out the multimeter. But remember one thing: Just because you have 12 volts and a good ground with the circuit disconnected... that doesn't mean you have a good connection. A single, hair-thin and partially corroded strand of wire will give a proper voltage reading if no current is flowing. But as soon as you try to flow current (i.e. complete the circuit), you'll lose all voltage downstream of the bad connection. This is a simple enough concept, but I've seen it confound many an otherwise competent mechanic.
Ha! I should have explained myself better. This happened on my Volvo, and yes I did pull out the multimeter and I'm under 30! Anyway, Volvo has a circuit under the dash with solid state relays for each headlight. Each relay is soldered into the circuit, so you can't just replace them. $800 new circuit vs. $30 headlight harness - winning!
Nothing wrong with a fix like that. I just don't like to re-wire things as a first option. But it can be cheap and effective as a last resort.
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