Parking pad help

Joined
May 16, 2011
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1,518
Location
Greenville, SC via Chicago, IL
Good morning,

I'd like to make a parking pad to the left of my garage (see picture). Water sheds away from the garage where I want to build.

My thought was to use railroad ties, stacked and pegged with rebar in the ground. This would give me a berm on the left of the proposed pad to contain the gravel. I would then backfill the pad space with gravel, leveling out the parking area. I would leave the existing dirt/ground as is, as water sheds away due to pitch. I'm thinking about 14'ft wide and 36'ft deep to match the garage depth.

Thoughts? issues?

IMG_1832_Original.jpg
 
I'm in just because I'm contemplating the same thing. I want a pad to put a 98 to 00 Jag XK8 and a ~18' Bayliner on, to have as cheap toys.

Your idea sounds "sound,", but I'd like to hear from others. The slope makes it clear it's going to drain well.

My other thought is, lift the front of the Tahoe once a year and yank on the tire in two dimensions. Those things like to eat tie rods and ball joints, best to catch it early before it eats the tires, too. ;)
 
I strung a line and there is a 20''in difference from the lowest point on ground level next to garage slab. That means I'd have 3 railroad ties stacked high. I'd need 21 railroad ties in total + lots of gravel!
 
Mine has 6 or 7 on the backside... in a stair step. Also I'm pretty sure it was filled with dirt and then a top layer of a few inches of gravel (vs entirely gravel).

Scruffy.jpeg
 
I think I would build a retaining wall of some sort & put the RR ties behind it, fill the first 18 inches with B-19 or something that could be compacted to pour concrete over. I did something similar at my old house and it held up pretty well until we sold it, looked good the last time I looked (it was put in almost 25 years ago).
 
What is your budget for doing this? I would want some sort of drainage pipe at the bottom next to the railway ties to get any water out of there that will make it's way into this parking pad.

Personally I don't like railway ties. I would want some sort of large retaining wall stones put on the left that will never shift and move with the change in seasons. Of course you need heavy machinery to get these installed, but overall the look IMO would be much nicer.
 
Railroad ties don't last . Use treated timbers . Put some Thompsons or something similar in a garden sprayer and give them another shot before you lay them .
 
I would use large stackable retaining wall stone and sand rock as a filler, then gravel on top. The railroad ties will be a pain to replace, when the bottom ones rot out.
 
Use retaining wall blocks and put a drain pipe at the bottom with clean rock around it as your backfill. You could use some minus as the top level if you want a nice compacted gravel surface. I can’t tell if you have gutters and downspouts on the garage from your pic but I’d put the downspout into 4” SDR pipe and get it under and away from your pad if you do. If you don’t, that is a lot of rainfall running onto your parking pad and makes a drain even more important.
 
My friend did this … guy at church got him some new - but rejected RR ties …
He piled up some gravel against the wood before the dirt fill was placed inside the frame …
 
I'd avoid RR ties altogether. That close to the woods, they would surely draw carpenter ants and termites. I've seen it a million times in home landscaping. A better choice is "Engineered Stone" these are hollow, and they are filled with gravel as the wall goes up. Nylon "emergency fence" material, you know, the orange stuff with the big holes in it, is installed every two layers or so. The gravel also ties all this back, as well as the stone, so that there is no movement over the years.
This stuff is rated for walls over 10 feet high, so you'll never have an issue with slippage. Not sure of the dimensions, but I seem to remember each lift being 10 or 12 inches, one row gets buried as a footer. Rebar can also be driven through the openings to secure the wall even further.

This method will avoid termite damage to your shed too.
 
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If you decide to use concrete, you should know that there are different qualities of concrete you can order. As usual the higher quality cost more.

It has been 40 years since I worked for a cement company so my information may be dated, but back then:

The first thing to look at is how many sacks per yard. A high quality cement would be 8 and 1/2 sacks per yard or even 9. But do not stop there regarding quality, when it is a location where it will end up being exposed to temperature below freezing. There are chemicals that are added to cement that is used for bridges and when all of those chemicals are added it is called bridge mix. There is a chemical that retards how long the cement takes to harden. Making it harden slower results in a stronger concrete. There is a chemical that makes it produce small air bubbles in the concrete that gives the cement room to expand or contract without cracking. And there is a chemical that makes it retain moisture during hardening. If cement becomes too dry as it hardens that reduces it finished strength.

Any cement company that supplies cement to state highway construction probably has supplied cement for construction of a bridge. While the specifications do vary from state to state even with states in the same latitude that have the same winter weather, in general bridge mix is a very good quality cement that will not easily crack because of freeze - thaw cycles, and is stronger in general and less likely to crack. It will also last a very long time. If it were me, I would ask them if they make a bridge mix, and then get into details of how many sacks per yard, and each of the chemicals referring to what those chemicals do when talking about them.

If you go with a high quality bridge mix, be sure to broom in surface texture when you finish leveling it out. With the high sacks to yard ratio it is easy to have it end up with a smooth finish that can be to slippery to walk on in the winter without broom texture.

The other down side is that once it cures if you ever have to remove it, or sand it with a cement finishing machine to reduce the height in some area some, it will be very difficult to work with because it is much stronger.

Sure you want a good base with good drainage. And while laying cement is not something that I got into, rebar arrangements are usually used for a good pad. Talk to someone more knowledgeable than me about the installation. But if you want a cement that will not crack and will last for a very long time, go with a bridge mix.
 
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