What tool are you using to measure voltage?
Parasitic Draw
- Thread starter lapedrera
- Start date
I was not measuring the draw measurement as Amps. I was advised. When I did my own, I measured as volts.
That is what I suspect as well - as even when I had it tested it came ok - but the CCA as noted.
It's a sealed / maintenance free - from May of 2020 (purchase date) I only know it has been in this vehicle since purchase (not myself that put into vehicle)
It also only charegd to 90% in my charger over night... never to full / maintain levels.
A digital multimeter.
Most multi-meters are capable of measuring voltage as well as amperage.
I agree. Does not change anything though.
What kind of meter do you have ? If it's a Multi-Meter it probably has an amp function .
One without. Specifically, GDT-3190.
This is for diagnosis at the fuse box. It has an internal lookup chart that can make the milliamp measurement for different size fuses. Expensive but eliminates the brute force method of pulling fuses. Make sure ur key fob is far far away, and allow all the modules to quiet down.
Amp hound 2 & 3
Amp hound 2 & 3
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Without an ammeter, this will be difficult, as you really want one inline to both verify the draw and when you have pulled the right fuse.
My guess, bad battery. But worthwhile to verify low draw first.
13V running? seems low to me. May have a second problem too. What vehicle is this?
My guess, bad battery. But worthwhile to verify low draw first.
13V running? seems low to me. May have a second problem too. What vehicle is this?
If you’re not measuring current -at all- then this entire thread is meaningless. Parasitic draw is current.
I'm waiting for my friend to borrow their ampclamp, so I see a proper draw. Used a battery tester and results come back ok.
V - Max 14.3 Min 9.4 (when starting)
That is my suspicion too.
On that occurence.. but that may be varying due to the battery being charged last night.. yesterday, it was closer to 14(don't recall the specific number) as the battery was lower so I guess it was charging at the higher voltage and lower on the 13 occassion as it was not in need of a charge.
That varies. 11 Sentra
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I looked up your meter - you're absolutely right - it inexplicably does not measure current (Amperes).
I recommend you pick up a multimeter that measures current also.
With the engine turned off, disconnect the cable from the battery's -ve terminal, and measure the current between the -ve terminal and the -ve cable clamp.
You should see something < 30 mA.
If the current drain is acceptable (i.e. < 30 mA), your battery likely has insufficient capacity.
Yes, I am aware and advised that(think is just a lower model).
As noted, I am waiting for a friends amp clamp.
I am aware of how to test that with a full multimeter, but with the amp clamp I do not.
I undestood anything under 50 is ok. I guess that 30 is better.
How to determine if the battery has insufficient capacity? I'm sure Ill have to prove that and argue with them to get it replaced
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Won’t help if it’s an AC clamp-on ammeter. What make and model of DMM are you using? It’s not a multimeter if it only measures voltage.
You need to either shotgun this with a new battery or pay someone to figure this out for you. You (to put it bluntly) have no idea what you’re doing.
P.S. you don’t need to remove your battery to charge it. Should save you some effort.
You need to pay someone to educate you on what a multi meter is. You (to put it bluntly) have no idea what you are talking about. Multi meters meausre multiple electrical properties, of which it does.
P.S. Yes, I do.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Ok…
Your multimeter is unusual - typically they will measure AC voltage, DC voltage, resistance, AC current, and DC current.
Some will also have a diode-test feature.
Yours can load-test small batteries, but doesn't measure current.
As you say, yours is a multimeter, but it's an incomplete one - I'm reminded of an early electronic calculator a friend bought - it was 3-function (addition, subtraction, and multiplication) - it did not divide.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...attery-low-after-sitting-several-days.386817/
This thread talks about testing a battery's A-hr capacity.
This thread talks about testing a battery's A-hr capacity.
Typically, but not always.
Ok.
It can test larger voltages, but yes, not As.
Not incomplete as per what a multimeter is. It is just fewer metrics. It's not exceeding old, so a bit weird that it doesn't include it.
I've done some other tests, but without the amp clamp, no specifics on any draw. The only thing that reflects any concern to me from the resultant data is the 8.88V on the cranking test.. still within an acceptable range(I belive) but leads me to believe, as you surmised, battery likely on the way out.. as in is towards end of life.. perhaps there are some other metrics I can add but those are all I did with what I have.
From the tests
=========
Cranking Test : Cranking low
3658ms
Max:11.03V
Min 8.88V
Charging Test: No Output
Loaded 13.96V
Unloaded: 12.32V
Ripple 148mV
SOH 100%
R: 4.84 mΩ
STD: 550A
CCA: 619A
VOL: 12.54V
Will have a look.
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