Pad/Rotor Replacement? Should I go Drilled/Slotted.

[Jetronic]

yes but at the rear it doesn't really matter, especially with a 90/10 forward bias as is. The Brembo are excellent from cold though

 

[Pew]

I suspected as much, thanks. Seems all the better performing pads trade off quiet operation for performance

Heat doesn't cause noise unless the pads got hot enough to overheat or smear the transfer layer. It's usually the opposite, aggressive pads are loud until they have enough heat in them. All track pads have a high amount of iron in them for high temperature stability but is also likely to cause more brake noise. Like edyvw said, you should be good once you bed them in again.

I'd skip the brake air diverters until you can fab up a mount for proper brake ducts and hoses leading to the rotor hub. Air diverters will only cool one side of the brakes and leads to uneven cooling (and eventually cracking) of the rotors.

 

[edyvw]

yes but at the rear it doesn't really matter, especially with a 90/10 forward bias as is. The Brembo are excellent from cold though

What forward bias of 90/10?

 

[Jetronic]

front: 4x40mm piston on a 330mm disc (brembo caliper)
rear: 1x39mm piston on a 278mm disc

 

[Pew]

To Find brake bias (does not take tire width into consideration.))

 

[edyvw]

front: 4x40mm piston on a 330mm disc (brembo caliper)
rear: 1x39mm piston on a 278mm disc

That is not how bias is calculated.
And that is if rotors and pads are same compound.
Different compounds are going to provide different effect during braking, especially in wet. That is why always more aggressive compound is in front. I personally would not be confident having track pad in rear and then go out to drive in snow or ice.

 

[Jetronic]

The brembo up front has a higher friction coefficient actually. And the car has EBD so dials back rear pressure as needed.

Especially when wet or slippery this isn't needed as there's less load shifting to the front.

 

[edyvw]

The brembo up front has a higher friction coefficient actually. And the car has EBD so dials back rear pressure as needed.

Especially when wet or slippery this isn't needed as there's less load shifting to the front.

OK, if front are more aggressive fine, but again, regardless of EBD I personally would go with old fashion rule having more aggressive compound in front.

 

[TiGeo]

OK, if front are more aggressive fine, but again, regardless of EBD I personally would go with old fashion rule having more aggressive compound in front.

Right now I have the EBC Yellowstuff up front and the Redstuff out back - feels great actually this way! I'll likely swap back in my reds to the front here in a few days.

 

[edyvw]

Right now I have the EBC Yellowstuff up front and the Redstuff out back - feels great actually this way! I'll likely swap back in my reds to the front here in a few days.

If you are not on track this winter, by all means.

 

[97prizm]

Drilled and slotted rotors were developed for racing to keep brake pads from "floating" due to outgassing as well as keep the pad face clean. They reduce life significantly.

 

[meep]

this has been a neat thread. I’m surprised this hasn’t been clarified however.

drilled rotors:
1. drilling provides increased cooling
2. Helps outgassing

slotted rotors:
1. Helps outgassing

so, the mods to the rotors have different purposes, they are not the same and were initially chosen for specific reasons when first introduced. If one considers that brakes work best at certain temperatures, one would also want to make sure the amount of cooling is appropriate for their conditions.

outgassing has also been mitigated by pads which simply slice them down the middle.

I have personally viewed hairline cracks starting at the edges of drilled rotors. Flared or rounded holes can reduce the propensity for cracking.

personal opinion: for street use, drilled could cause more problems than gains. Slotted could provide enhanced pedal feel without over cooling or increasing risks of rotor fatigue. Some may not like the noise or the potentially (results seem to vary) shortened pad life.

and a personal thought: if street driven drilled rotors aren’t showing tiny cracks at the holes’ edges after accumulating lots of miles, they may not be thermally stressed enough to indicate the need for additional cooling in the first place.
m

 

[EBC Brakes UK]

The Ferodos DS2500s and PFC PF01s would be one step up above the EBC yellows in feel and heat range. They dust about the same but are far much louder than the Yellows from my experience. In fact in the two sets of EBC yellows I've used for the evo I can only remember them squealing once when it was in the 30s outside.

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