P/S Flush

I’ve done a Magnefine on the return line of the PS systems on all three Volvos in my signature.

Did they help? Hard to say. They didn’t hurt.

All three have the original rack. The rack is crazy expensive and requires dropping the subframe to replace, so I wanted to ensure a long life for the rack. With over 265,000 on the high mileage one (the XC) I’m glad I installed the magnefine.
I donated my '99 S70 to the local public radio station in July, after 21 years and 276,000+ miles of daily service. They got it with the original PS fluid. Everything was great on that car except the tiny leak in the head gasket and the CAT it poisoned...
 
As posted lift the front wheels, return line off and turn the wheel left to right and back filling the reservoir when it gets low. Forget the turkey baster method, its close to worthless and requires a lot of fluid.

Id agree that Turkey baster with turning wheels is a challenge. Since PSF doesn’t seem to be a terribly stressed fluid, IMO, just removing and topping the reservoir up is “good enough” to give a long life.

The reason I don’t like the line off, wheels turning approach is based upon observations from my MB. You can see all the fluid, and it’s easy to see what happens when the pump pulls just a tiny bit of air. It happens easier than I ever thought. And the PSF gets really bubbly really quick in the reservoir.

The turkey baster or vacuum method changes just enough, and runs zero risk.

Maybe I just don’t fill aggressively enough, or am doing something wrong...
 
I think Trav was suggesting that you just turn the wheel, which moves the fluid out...

But if you idle the engine, oh yeah, that fluid is pumped out quick and the pump sucks air... which can’t be good for it.
 
With rack and pinion wheels lock to lock with engine off is the preferred method by some manufacturers to bleed the air out of the pump and rack.
With the engine off you have total control over the amount coming out and being filled in.
 
I used the Wix 58964 filter on the return PS line of our 2007 V70. Changed it every 30,000 with a reservoir drain and fill every 15,000. As Astro14 said replacing the rack in these cars is time consuming and expensive.

The 240s get a reservoir drain and fill every 5,000. I’ve never had an issue.
 
My 2010 GMC turned fluid black by year 3 … IIRC …
Just removed and filled back 2 pint bottles a month apart - that it ended the oxidation cycle and the fluid looked good. Then I did a pint a year ($8) … had the truck 8 years with no issues.
 
For cars not as easy to service as my MBs, I just use a fluid extractor suction unit to pull the fluid from the reservoir... Wipe out the reservoir to the extent I can, and then refill with new fluid. IMO not necessary to do every OCI, but it can help refresh fluid readily.

I think you are right and this is what I do. I do this every time I service the AT (~25k mi). Just drain or suction out the reservoir and refill. Easy, cheap maintenance. You will refresh about 1/2 the fluid and be good to go another 25k at least.

For the OP - here's another thought. If your Camry is a V6, do this as the engine config. makes the PS system run a lot hotter. I've seen this on Lexus ES/Camry V6 vs. Camry I4. The V6 models have more PS/heat related issues as they age than the I4 models. On an I4, if I wanted to keep the car a LONG time, I'd still do it, but I wouldn't be quite as insistent someone else do it. Make sense?

Here's the Volvo where I put the filter in the return line along the firewall. Installing this and topping up the reservoir took all of 10 minutes or so (not counting the trip to Ace Hardware - see below).

The comment above re: source of a leak is a legitimate one. To eliminate that, I toss the screw-clamps that come with the kit and I go to Ace Hardware and get a pair of Mubea clips (constant tension clamps). If you look at the top side of the filter in this pic, you can see what I mean. They are $0.50 each at my local ace hardware and I use them on all critical fluid fittings like on my transmission cooler, etc. instead of screw/worm clamps.

IMG-2545.JPG
 
Probably wouldn't hurt but hard to say if it helps. PS flushes are easy and pretty cheap to do. Every 50 - 60k miles. Says it calls for DEXRON II or III which is pennies nowadays.
 
I would do a return line flush - raise the vehicle and remove return line and do steering locks and push old fluid out. Replace fresh fluid every 60K and you are good to go. I have 2 Toyos and many friends with Toyos and their racks and PS pumps are pretty good if taken care off. Not doing PS locks under load is by far the best thing one could do for longevity.
 
Not doing PS locks under load is by far the best thing one could do for longevity.

This is a very good point. And it also applies for ball joints (and tie rods?). I read that dirt-tracked Subarus, off road vehicles, etc., wear the ball joints at triple the standard rate because of this - strong acceleration at full lock. If at full lock, easy on the throttle for many reasons unless it's a toy/race car.
 
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PS is a tricky piece of hardware and when it goes kaput is when you realize the bill is very high. My idiooot brother always does (and still does) PS locks under load inside parking lots and elsewhere and had to replace his rack and pump on his RX350. Some racks last a lifetime even without replacing fluids and more got to do with abuse and pushing the envelope of the design. Be nice to them and it will be nice to your wallet - they are bound to fail someday but postponing it to 250K is well worth the initial investment. One thing on the Toyos the HP hose is bound to leak and replace them when doing the rear plugs with the intake out at around 150K (they always leak at 175K with clock wise precision, any car/model), push the plugs replacement to 140K with good gas and then replace the hose at the same time.
 
With rack and pinion wheels lock to lock with engine off is the preferred method by some manufacturers to bleed the air out of the pump and rack.
With the engine off you have total control over the amount coming out and being filled in.

Yes, don't start the engine ever when removing PS fluid. Put the ingnition into ACC (unlocks the PS column) and then raise vehicle and do PS locks, in 4/5 turns everything it out. Put back return line at the reservoir end, fill and do locks to push the fluid into rack and some point it will take no more. Start car and do steering locks and all air is bled via the reservoir. Top it off.!!
 
Yes, don't start the engine ever when removing PS fluid. Put the ignition into ACC (unlocks the PS column) and then raise vehicle and do PS locks, in 4/5 turns everything it out. Put back return line at the reservoir end, fill and do locks to push the fluid into rack and some point it will take no more. Start car and do steering locks and all air is bled via the reservoir. Top it off.!!

I have done exactly what you outline, only I've turned the wheel lock to lock about 20-25 times. With the wheels OFF the ground and the engine OFF, there is NO LOAD on the system. When I'm convinced that it is quiet enough, THEN I start the engine and go lock to lock until ALL noise is gone. 200K+ and the car's steering is buttery smooth and quiet. FWIW, I drive sensibly and conservatively in parking lots and I've never gone to the "lock" under load. Be nice to the machinery and it'll last longer.
 
okay, just to confirm - return line from the reservoir to the PS pump is where everyone is installing their inline PS filter, right?
 
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