Yes, but bad fan motors and resistor packs puke fuses.
Overheated for the first time since new.
- Thread starter N7Quarian
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Where are the resistor packs located? The fan could be the issue even though it runs perfectly when it does run?
Can you lubricate the motor's bushings?
I think its completely sealed, so no, not at least without taking the whole fan out I think. But the fan spins freely and has no trouble powering up if I turn on the A/C.
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Originally Posted By: N7Quarian
I just want to know what is making my fuse blow.
As any DC motor begins to fail it draws more power.
It also draws more current as it is loaded more. Stall it and it'll blow that fuse, too.
I just want to know what is making my fuse blow.
As any DC motor begins to fail it draws more power.
It also draws more current as it is loaded more. Stall it and it'll blow that fuse, too.
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It may not have a temp switch unique to the radiator fan. Rather the computer turns on the fan via its coolant temp sensor.
In my Jeep they can command the fan to turn on using a fancy scanner connected to the OBDII connector.
Its the fan motor.
Buy a DVM (digital voltmeter). Many places in the USA sell them including Sears, Home Depot. Try and measure the resistance of the fan motor. It needs to be disconnected to do that.
If you get a new fan, measure its resistance.
In my Jeep they can command the fan to turn on using a fancy scanner connected to the OBDII connector.
Its the fan motor.
Buy a DVM (digital voltmeter). Many places in the USA sell them including Sears, Home Depot. Try and measure the resistance of the fan motor. It needs to be disconnected to do that.
If you get a new fan, measure its resistance.
Sorry for so many questions but do I also need a new thermal switch or temp sensor? Because the fan does not turn on when the car reached normal operating temps.
UPDATE:
Its gotta be the fan. I let the car Idle until it reached operating temp and then I put the fuse in place but the fan did not turn on. I let it sit more time until the needle started to creep towards the red zone from the middle. I put the fuse in place again and bingo the fan turned on. BUT when it did the engine lost some RPM and started to shake, I removed the fuse, the fan stopped and the engine smoothed out, I repeated the process and the engine started to shake again.
Its gotta be the fan. I let the car Idle until it reached operating temp and then I put the fuse in place but the fan did not turn on. I let it sit more time until the needle started to creep towards the red zone from the middle. I put the fuse in place again and bingo the fan turned on. BUT when it did the engine lost some RPM and started to shake, I removed the fuse, the fan stopped and the engine smoothed out, I repeated the process and the engine started to shake again.
Fans take substantial power.
It is normal to note an idle change with any fans on.
Massive changes are unusual.
It is normal to note an idle change with any fans on.
Massive changes are unusual.
The engine shakes noticeably though. It almost runs like a diesel when the fan turns on.
If the fuse was a 30 Amp, then the fan probably pulls 20 Amp normally which is a lot when its only idling. Trying turning on anything you can when its idling and see what happens.
Get a new fan.
Get a new fan.
Originally Posted By: N7Quarian
UPDATE:
Its gotta be the fan. .
I already told you that in the first reply. LOL
My guess is when you flooded the fan motor with dirty water it corroded/contaminated the windings or perhaps there were diodes that were damaged as well.
UPDATE:
Its gotta be the fan. .
I already told you that in the first reply. LOL
My guess is when you flooded the fan motor with dirty water it corroded/contaminated the windings or perhaps there were diodes that were damaged as well.
Make sure you also carefully check the wiring to the fan as well, and the connectors to check for broken wire or corroded pins.
Doesn't hurt to check other things before throwing money at the most expensive part lol.
(Sigh) I took the radiator off in order to take the fan off and then I removed the actual motor and smelled it. It smelt really burnt.
(Sigh) I took the radiator off in order to take the fan off and then I removed the actual motor and smelled it. It smelt really burnt.
Good job. If you can measure the current draw there may be a spec to refer to. It's at least got to be comfortably less than the fuse rating.
Diagnosis is always the hard part.
Diagnosis is always the hard part.
Measure the resistance of each fan unconnected. I = E/R.
I only have 1 fan.
Here are some pics of the fan motor. It was filled with a black powder and smelt really burnt.
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The brushes are gone. They cannot move in any more the wire prevents it. How about the area where the brushes contact, is that rough or silky smooth?
A starter rebuild guy could replace the brushes and turn the armature on a lathe.
Maybe you need a spare fan if you are going to go deep in water as a habit.
A starter rebuild guy could replace the brushes and turn the armature on a lathe.
Maybe you need a spare fan if you are going to go deep in water as a habit.
Is there any way that you can retrofit a mechanical fan (i.e. motor driven) to this vehicle? Unless you can get a submersible electric fan this is going to keep happening to you. Water and electrical bits not designed for wet environments tend not to get along very well.
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