Is there any downside, other than cost and time, to changing you vehicles oil too soon? Is there a 'break in' of oil that makes it more effective after its had some miles?
Other that cost, problem with changing too soon?
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There are some threads about this. As I recall, there is an initial period where wear is supposedly higher with new oil, or is the new oil initially suspending a lot of left behind junk? So, I don't know. I don't think it is significant. As I see it, the worst from too frequent oil changes is more chance to strip drain plug, but should get a Fumoto or Sure Drain if doing freq oil changes. Also could wear out the twist on "710" device.
It is said the additives require a period of heat and pressure to activate, but since you ask about changing the oil "too soon", then that means you know it's too soon. So why change it? Define too soon for us?
I've heard the old wives tale about 'break in' for oil.
Sounded fishy then and still does. BUT, I'm inclined to think there is something to it; a fresh oil change seems to cause a hit in mileage for a thousand miles or so. After that, the mileage seems to go back up to 'normal for me' level.
My 2¢
Sounded fishy then and still does. BUT, I'm inclined to think there is something to it; a fresh oil change seems to cause a hit in mileage for a thousand miles or so. After that, the mileage seems to go back up to 'normal for me' level.
My 2¢
That's why I heat up the new oil on the stove to 200F before I pour it into the engine. I get less wear out of the new oil that way.
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By "too soon" do you mean after you purchase a new car/truck, or frequent oil change intervals?
With a rebuilt (non factory) motor it is recomended (20+ years ago) to change the oil and filter after the first 100 miles to remove and debrie left in the mtor from the rebuild. Also to change it again after 500 miles.
The large auto manufacturers have a very clean place where they assembly the motors and there shouldn't be any dirt or other garbage left in the motor from machining or assembly.
The large automakers (engine makers) may have used a break-in oil back in the 1950's or earlier because the machining and metalurgy (sp?) wasn't as good as it is today and the parst needed to "wear-in". this was especially true for the old style piston rings
And you can run synthetic in a new motor with no problems.
With a rebuilt (non factory) motor it is recomended (20+ years ago) to change the oil and filter after the first 100 miles to remove and debrie left in the mtor from the rebuild. Also to change it again after 500 miles.
The large auto manufacturers have a very clean place where they assembly the motors and there shouldn't be any dirt or other garbage left in the motor from machining or assembly.
The large automakers (engine makers) may have used a break-in oil back in the 1950's or earlier because the machining and metalurgy (sp?) wasn't as good as it is today and the parst needed to "wear-in". this was especially true for the old style piston rings
And you can run synthetic in a new motor with no problems.
Waste of natural resources. If everyone started changing oil every 1000 miles - what a huge waste.
And it is true there is a initial slight hump in wear metals.....will this cause premature death? Probably not. But the point is that total wear metals per mile are at least the same, if not better with extended drains.
And it is true there is a initial slight hump in wear metals.....will this cause premature death? Probably not. But the point is that total wear metals per mile are at least the same, if not better with extended drains.
Nowadays, it's good to leave the factory oil in the engine for 1000 miles or so. You can go a few thousand further if you like.
After that, even the cheapest oil should get you 3,000 miles between changes.
Premium synthetics can go triple that.
After that, even the cheapest oil should get you 3,000 miles between changes.
Premium synthetics can go triple that.
There is no problem at all.If the oil is recycled there is no waste in resources in the big picture. With a new Engine there is more wear metals etc look at the used oil analysis. but the oils last 5,000 miles if there is no problems look at the used oil analysis.
Well, I just picked up a 98 Crown Vic PI, and the guy who sold it to me siad that the engine NEEDS(he stressed this) to be changed at 3000.
The car was a cop car with a good maintainance program. Had the 4.6 engine and transmission replaced at 120K 4 years ago. Currently it has 226K on the car as a whole(106K on the current engine and transmission). I probably will still opt for my normal 5K interval though. I can't imagine that V8 with an aux cooler would be stressed that badly with my simple commute.
The car was a cop car with a good maintainance program. Had the 4.6 engine and transmission replaced at 120K 4 years ago. Currently it has 226K on the car as a whole(106K on the current engine and transmission). I probably will still opt for my normal 5K interval though. I can't imagine that V8 with an aux cooler would be stressed that badly with my simple commute.
I think this link may shed some light on this matter for all.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html
Your friend NEEDS to join this site and see the error of his ways.
That's why I heat up the new oil on the stove to 200F before I pour it into the engine. I get less wear out of the new oil that way.
I just tried that, but I keep melting the bottle and making a mess. Whats your secret?
I just tried that, but I keep melting the bottle and making a mess. Whats your secret?
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That's why I heat up the new oil on the stove to 200F before I pour it into the engine. I get less wear out of the new oil that way.
I just tried that, but I keep melting the bottle and making a mess. Whats your secret?
How about pouring it into a Turkey fryer. is there a time required at 200 degrees or is it done when it hits the mark? How about a surrogate motor to run the oil in, to get it over the hump before the oil change.
Recycling takes energy and resources. Oh the irony.
It's still better to consume less.
If the used oil wasn't burned virgin oil would be used.
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That's why I heat up the new oil on the stove to 200F before I pour it into the engine. I get less wear out of the new oil that way.
It is not heating up the oil it is the oil heating up in the engine which allows the additives to attract to the metal."Just in case somebody thinks about heating the oil before putting it into the engine will activate the additives".
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Your friend NEEDS to join this site and see the error of his ways.
Indeed. He told me the police force always was tight about getting them in the shop to change it at the 3k interval.
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That's why I heat up the new oil on the stove to 200F before I pour it into the engine. I get less wear out of the new oil that way.
Typical newbie nonsense worthy of banishment to the newbie forum, Merk. Good job.
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