O'Reilly's Disc surfacing

twouvakind

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Anybody have experience with this chain and their rotor surfacing? I am guessing it is computer guided vs. manual settings....so less chance for a sub par job. Correct me if I am wrong. I have 6k on genuine VW rotors and would like to give them a shot vs. going right to Zimmerman.
 
the ones around here just have a Ammco brake lathe essentially identical to the ones we used in the dealer 35 years ago.


Why would you resurface 6K old rotors...
 
the ones around here just have a Ammco brake lathe essentially identical to the ones we used in the dealer 35 years ago.


Why would you resurface 6K old rotors...
Same with my local store. Sits right beside their used oil drum, ours looks fairly unmaintained and unused.

If you're not having brake pulsations and are just changing pads, just pad slap and go. There's not a lot of reason to turn them.
 
CPO, I have already had two rims straightened and am going to have the others checked, it shudders pretty bad when braking. I was just weighing options if the remaining wheels are straight.
 
Brake lathes are incredibly simple devices, and most of them (every one I've ever used or seen) automatically surface the rotor without the need for a computer.

I would only ever resurface a rotor that is the original rotor that came on the car, as they are usually of much higher quality than aftermarket and dealer parts department parts.

Resurfacing anything else is polishing a turd.
 
Brake rotors are not that expensive to replace, in regards to the labor involved in the whole job. I wouldn't even bother getting them turned. Simply buy and install new one's. Save money somewhere else.

Not to mention time saved by removing the old one's, and immediately installing the new ones. Without any turn around time involved. And the risk of having someone turn them with too much runout, or out of spec. Not everyone who works at an auto parts store is a mechanic..... Or a machinist.
 
Just for comparison, a serious truck supply shop in No. Jersey charges $25 to resurface a rotor. The NAPA shop in upstate NY charges $20.
As said here, I'd only resurface the genuine Volvo rotors on my V70. I must try it once.
It would save money if successful and be a reinforcement of a time/money thrift lesson if not.

If dressing a rotor is what you want to do then go for it.
Post your glory or shame here. Nobody will make fun of you. (yeah, right)
 
Rotors for my cars run $65-$100 for the cheapest Autozone pot metal, and significantly more for my truck, the local machine shop charges $20 each and can have all of them ready in an hour or so. Its certainly not "cheaper to replace them" around here.
 
I had the O-Reilly's guys talk me into resurfacing my rotors. They ended up worse than before he did them. He ended up giving me the cost of it off a new set so all was not lost. I'm guessing it has to do with the guy running the machine and how well he know how to run it. I wouldn't do it again.
 
O'Reilly's seems to be the only shop around me that turns rotors, and I don't think all their locations do it either. My local shop has an older guy that only works a couple days a week who seems to be the only one that knows how to do it, so you have to be able to work around his schedule. But he does a great job so I'm not complaining.
 
No one here has ever turned a new rotor or at least chocked it up on a lathe? I do it all the time with new rotors and more than a few need a cleanup.
If you've done it successfully on a lathe without a dedicated jig that doesn't ever get removed from the chuck I'd love to know how.

The key to a brake lathe is that it can do both sides without flipping the rotor around, ensuring the surfaces are dead nuts parallel while clamping against the WMS. Furthermore the conical mounting setup quickly and easily centers and holds just about any rotor so you don't spend 20 minutes jacking around with workholding.

I've thrown around various designs in my head, but it all starts with a jig I would first face every time I've put it in the chuck so I know the WMS is dead nuts square to the travel of my cross slide. I suppose a fixture for a face plate might prevent this, so then I'm loading up my face plate which I never use.

Then, lacking the cones, the jig would likely be drilled and tapped for the bolt pattern of the rotor in question and I'd bolt it up. Studs are out because I have to face that entire surface.

This way I'd feel comfortable facing one side, unbolting and flipping it around and doing the other side.

Some claim they've gotten the compound and tool post to reach around to the back of the rotor without flipping it, but what a PITA and a huge YMMV depending upon lathe and rotor -- I tried years ago with no success.
 
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