Ordered a pedal commander (review and thoughts)

[hemioiler]

Actually, it does change how fast it opens for a given amount of pedal travel...that "pretty" graph shows it clearly. I didn't make this up - that "pretty" graph is actual data I logged on my car. Also the video I posted somwhere here also shows this (re-posted below). What are you not seeing? And a big "huh?" to the voltage and "playing wiht your life"...seriously? BITOG level 11.

We know it doesn't change the ECU speed because of how it's implemented; the pedal is a simple potentiometer, all these devices do is change the voltage on the line (with some redundancy), a higher voltage = "more pressure" on the pedal, lower voltage = "less pressure". There is nothing in the pedal sensor circuitry that handles/detects speed, at least not in my truck, so these devices can't possibly tell the ECU to do something that your foot on the pedal can't also tell it to do.

There are all kinds of people having issues with these things:

 

[1 SX]

I am willing to take that "risk" with check engine ect. I have logged thousands of miles so far with the PC and not the single slightest hiccup, check engine ect. BUT I am obsessive about grounds and correct voltage because of the amplifiers so have installed additional grounds to the frame even after cleaning every single factory connection from the alternator, battery, battery to frame, and battery to hot wires, plus all ground points (about 30 of them) even behind panels and inside of vehicle..

I definitely could see pedal commander given an issue if you had a so-so electrical system kinda unsteady with spike and dips of voltage outputs.

ALSO: I never change modes either on the fly when running. When I do, this is the sequence that I follow : Turn the vehicle off. Remove key. Open and close drivers door for 10 secs. Reinsert key. Turn to "on" position. Select the mode, but then turn the ignition off. Remove the key. Open/close the door for 10 secs. Then proceed with the normal starting sequence.

I can confirm it DOES change how fast the throttle opens, Without PC connected a quick blip to floor on throttle the factory setup barely raises the RPMS. When trying to rev match ect that massive delay makes driving the car some what challenging.

With PC connected and doing the same blip, the RPMS raise a couple thousand before I can even release the throttle.

 

[hemioiler]

I am willing to take that "risk" with check engine ect. I have logged thousands of miles so far with the PC and not the single slightest hiccup, check engine ect. BUT I am obsessive about grounds and correct voltage because of the amplifiers so have installed additional grounds to the frame even after cleaning every single factory connection from the alternator, battery, battery to frame, and battery to hot wires, plus all ground points (about 30 of them) even behind panels and inside of vehicle..

I definitely could see pedal commander given an issue if you had a so-so electrical system kinda unsteady with spike and dips of voltage outputs.

ALSO: I never change modes either on the fly when running. When I do, this is the sequence that I follow : Turn the vehicle off. Remove key. Open and close drivers door for 10 secs. Reinsert key. Turn to "on" position. Select the mode, but then turn the ignition off. Remove the key. Open/close the door for 10 secs. Then proceed with the normal starting sequence.

I can confirm it DOES change how fast the throttle opens, Without PC connected a quick blip to floor on throttle the factory setup barely raises the RPMS. When trying to rev match ect that massive delay makes driving the car some what challenging.

With PC connected and doing the same blip, the RPMS raise a couple thousand before I can even release the throttle.

FCA vehicles are particularly sensitive to this it seems, these devices use the power on the pedal circuitry to power themselves, causing power shortages which messes up the sensor/ECU. There may be other brands with this issue, I've just been in the mopar world for the last few years so that's all I'm aware of right now.

To my knowledge only the banks pedal monster is designed correctly, as it takes power from the OBD2 port and doesn't use power from the pedal circuitry.

And again, you can't possibly be doing anything to the throttle that your right foot can't also do. The gas pedal is a simple voltage based sensor, for example "2 volts = pedal 1/4 way down, 4 volts = 1/2 way down" or whatever. The booster simply boosts the voltage to fool the ECU into thinking your pedal is farther down than it really is. When you're 1/4 way down, the pedal says "2 volts" and the booster changes that to "4 volts". Or whatever.

But it's not affecting the speed that the throttle body opens, thats all controlled by the ECU and is part of the tune (eco mode vs sport vs sand mode etc etc if you have such modes). You can't change any of that by boosting the output of the pedal sensor.

 

[TiGeo]

Am I taking crazy pills? Have you guys watched the Pedal Commander video I've posted a link to? He clearly demonstrates that "just step on the pedal harder" isn't the same as using this. I concur after having a pedal tuner, it's giving you more voltage faster (again...have you looked at the logging graph I posted?) which translates into the throttle plate opening sooner AND faster which is not the same as "just step on it harder".

 

[hemioiler]

Am I taking crazy pills? Have you guys watched the Pedal Commander video I've posted a link to? He clearly demonstrates that "just step on the pedal harder" isn't the same as using this. I concur after having a pedal tuner, it's give you more voltage faster (again...have you looked at the logging graph I posted?) which translates into the throttle plate opening sooner AND faster which is not the same as "just step on it harder".

Anything can be faked or enhanced in a video to make it easier to see how something works or why it works.

The pedal sensor is so completely basic, there is nothing the device can change in that circuit other than output voltage (which translates to "how far is the pedal pressed down").

There is nothing in the pedal circuitry (in my truck anyway) that records how fast you depress the pedal, therefore no device in the world can speed it up either. In theory a device could slow it down as it could simply inject a pause before outputing the real voltage, but you can't speed something up faster when it's a direct wire; that's like asking to turn a lightbulb on faster after you hit the switch, you can't speed that up you can only slow it down by taking time before putting the power on the wire.

The device can only mimic what your right foot can do.

There might be some very minute differences that are due to physical limitations of your foot moving, but that isn't the issue since we know drive by cable systems are extremely responsive (more so than drive by wire with induced lag).

The ECU is just purposely slow to react, programmed that way either due to fuel economy or torque management or traction control reasons etc.

No doubt it feels faster to a human, my banks pedal monster certainly did when I had it installed, but once I had this explained to me how it works and that I could get the same result by pushing harder on the pedal, and now I prefer the softer response especially while towing and just can't be bothered to muck around with something like this anymore.

 

[CanAmAndMore]

Full throttle, is full throttle, doesn't matter if that happens by pushing the pedal down halfway, or to the floor.

These things add 0 power.

My Can am Outlander ATV has multiple throttle response settings that change with the flick of a switch.
Sure sport mode makes it feel peppier, but its not.
It is actually my least favorite mode, makes the throttle lever too touchy. But then I'm also not too lazy to just push the throttle wide open in normal mode.

 

[TiGeo]

Full throttle, is full throttle, doesn't matter if that happens by pushing the pedal down halfway, or to the floor.

These things add 0 power.

My Can am Outlander ATV has multiple throttle response settings that change with the flick of a switch.
Sure sport mode makes it feel peppier, but its not.
It is actually my least favorite mode, makes the throttle lever too touchy. But then I'm also not too lazy to just push the throttle wide open in normal mode.

I don't think anyone here is saying it adds any power. It's a drivability mod, that's it.

 

[1 SX]

I did say I would update if any changes, good, bad or otherwise, and well my opinion changed 180°. I loved this device up until the very moment I didn't. It has never even hiccuped once, or gave any red flags or warnings on what was about to transpire.

At the very worst possible moment while in 3rd gear passing another vehicle.... the throttle became 100% in-operableI as I was pulling back into the lane - the car had zero response to throttle inputs as it coasted to the side of the road and tried to restart it and it would not start... After a couple minutes to catch my composure, it dawned on me about this device that is installed. a quick unplug and placing the factory hardness back into the pedal I anxiously tried to restart the engine. after about 10 seconds the engine caught and it fired up but would not rev above 1100 RPM. a few key cycles later the throttle became responsive again (turned on? lol) The check engine light immediately lit up also.

Currently the p/c is uninstalled, and it will FOREVER stay uninstalled, I have too much fear to even contemplate reinstalling it, also I cannot and will not recommend a device like this now after this experience. to note... it never went into "fail safe" mode which retains the factory throttle as a back up. This absolutely could've been life-changing if the situation was under different circumstances, such as merging onto the New York State Thruway.

So please take my advice, and do not even think about installing something like this into any modern vehicle. it operated flawlessly for over 50,000 miles and a couple years up until it failed.

 

[Doc8404]

I did say I would update if any changes, good, bad or otherwise, and well my opinion changed 180°. I loved this device up until the very moment I didn't. It has never even hiccuped once, or gave any red flags or warnings on what was about to transpire.

At the very worst possible moment while in 3rd gear passing another vehicle.... the throttle became 100% in-operableI as I was pulling back into the lane - the car had zero response to throttle inputs as it coasted to the side of the road and tried to restart it and it would not start... After a couple minutes to catch my composure, it dawned on me about this device that is installed. a quick unplug and placing the factory hardness back into the pedal I anxiously tried to restart the engine. after about 10 seconds the engine caught and it fired up but would not rev above 1100 RPM. a few key cycles later the throttle became responsive again (turned on? lol) The check engine light immediately lit up also.

Currently the p/c is uninstalled, and it will FOREVER stay uninstalled, I have too much fear to even contemplate reinstalling it, also I cannot and will not recommend a device like this now after this experience. to note... it never went into "fail safe" mode which retains the factory throttle as a back up. This absolutely could've been life-changing if the situation was under different circumstances, such as merging onto the New York State Thruway.

So please take my advice, and do not even think about installing something like this into any modern vehicle. it operated flawlessly for over 50,000 miles and a couple years up until it failed.

View attachment 231798

Let us know what PC says when you reach out!

Glad you’re safe.

 

[KrisZ]

Thanks @1 SX for the update, not too many people would do that.

It’s not really surprising, these devices and pretty much all aftermarket stuff, with very few exceptions, is never tested to the same standard as the OEM parts. These aftermarket companies simply don’t have the time and budget for long term tests.

 

[D60]

I'm typically opposed to such devices but if ever there was a vehicle that could benefit it's my buddy's '13 Express. GM's throttle programming was so dismal I honestly wonder if they ever drove it before releasing it.

It feels as though you have to tip into the pedal at least 25% of available (perceived) travel before it even STARTS to move off the line. And on the highway it feels like you have to be 90% to the floor before it considers downshifting.

My numbers are obviously made up but the driving experience is horrendous because the throttle is so lazy.

That said, he ordered a Bully Dog programmer. I have no idea how much it can change on the vans (shrug)

 

[SHOZ]

I have a TROS booster on my Gen Coupe. Best and first mod anyone should do to that car. Had it on for a few years and generally only change it down a notch for winter, then up for summer. Can't run it more than level 5 out of 8. The eco mode is nice for a valet like mode.

 

[TiGeo]

I run one by BMS (Burger Motor Sports) in my Sportwagen, I love it and run it on max. My wife and middle son, not really so happy with it when they drive it and forget how sensitive the throttle is Our Atlas could greatly benefit from one.