Orange sludge in radiator

[The motor guy]

It's rust from the iron block due to no maintenance.

Yay

 

[Nick1994]

Did you pull the drain in the block? It's easy to do in that jeep.

Didn't know it had one, I'll have to look into it next time

 

[CDX825]

Cummins/ Fleetguard makes a product specifically for this type of problem called Restore Plus. I'd suggest trying to flush out what you can with just water and then run the Restore Plus to finish the job.

 

[The motor guy]

So I can't post pics on here? I compressed it and the file is still too large

 

[The motor guy]

Cummins/ Fleetguard makes a product specifically for this type of problem called Restore Plus. I'd suggest trying to flush out what you can with just water and then run the Restore Plus to finish the job.

I'm going to pull the lower hose and see what comes out. It's not overheating, runs right at 180

 

[nthach]

Cummins/ Fleetguard makes a product specifically for this type of problem called Restore Plus. I'd suggest trying to flush out what you can with just water and then run the Restore Plus to finish the job.

It’s hard to find unless you have a Cummins store(company owned) or dealer. Ford sells an Engine Iron Cleaner in quart bottles that can work, GM recommended Prestone Heavy Duty Cooling System Flush which was 10oz of oxalic acid with 2oz of sodium carbonate as the neutralizer.

If you can’t find either or can’t work up the courage to use oxalic acid wood bleach/concrete etch(UGL Drylok brand) from the hardware store, go on Amazon and get citric acid, the Mercedes-recommended flush.

 

[The motor guy]

looking at pics on the internet of dexcool bottles, they say ford, gm, and chrysler. No wonder it's such a mess.

 

[Bailes1992]

Could it just be rust build up from the block? Maybe it was ran on plain water for a period?

 

[Greasymechtech]

RMI-25

Add a dose now, add as needed with each drain/refill, which will initially be more frequent.

https://www.rmi25.com/

Use a photo hosting site to link to your pictures.

 

[The motor guy]

https://ibb.co/MStLjLD

 

[The motor guy]

https://ibb.co/PrgkX37

 

[The motor guy]

https://ibb.co/PrgkX37

This filler neck was completly closed shut when I first removed the cap. I poked at it with my finger and a screw driver to see how deep it was. It was nice and soft and there was liquid about an inch below it. The radiator was full, only took a few ounces to fill it up. The overflow bottle was empty. I'm kind of hoping it only collected right there at the cap.

 

[The motor guy]

RMI-25

Add a dose now, add as needed with each drain/refill, which will initially be more frequent.

https://www.rmi25.com/

Use a photo hosting site to link to your pictures.

Pics posted, thanks

 

[Nukeman7]

This filler neck was completly closed shut when I first removed the cap. I poked at it with my finger and a screw driver to see how deep it was. It was nice and soft and there was liquid about an inch below it. The radiator was full, only took a few ounces to fill it up. The overflow bottle was empty. I'm kind of hoping it only collected right there at the cap.

The air space below the radiator cap (and often the bottom of the overflow reservoir) is where it always starts. Again, if the system is kept 100% full of coolant, the DEX-COOL won't oxidize like that. It was much worse on the GM 3800 V-6 engines which frequently had compromised lower intake manifold gaskets that caused consumption of the antifreeze. You may have caught it in time where the sludge is only at the top of the radiator; however, a long, thorough flush with a chemical cleaner is needed at this time.

Again, I suggest refilling with Zerex G05 (available at NAPA) or Final Charge antifreeze as both are compatible with the Cummins diesel.

 

[zzyzzx]

He may not have flushed it out either.

That is also my suspicion.

 

[The motor guy]

So is that rust or just the coolant breaking down turning to goop?

 

[Kira]

Time warp issue:
OP said, "Just bought a new truck....... the guy said new radiator..... how quickly does incompatible coolant sludge up? Looks like a rusty brown paste".

How long before your purchase did he replace the radiator? Was he present when you sampled the rusty paste? He had nothing to say?

Also beware of accumulations of leak-stop products if the system was treated (perhaps repeatedly) before real repairs.

You job, should you decide to accept it, is to get the system clean first.

 

[The motor guy]

Time warp issue:
OP said, "Just bought a new truck....... the guy said new radiator..... how quickly does incompatible coolant sludge up? Looks like a rusty brown paste".

How long before your purchase did he replace the radiator? Was he present when you sampled the rusty paste? He had nothing to say?

Also beware of accumulations of leak-stop products if the system was treated (perhaps repeatedly) before real repairs.

You job, should you decide to accept it, is to get the system clean first.

I wonder if he said all that to get me to avoid looking at the radiator? It looked newish, but I didn't actually open the cap until I bought it.

 

[1foxracing]

If I was doing the job I would use a power flush gun to try and get all the gunk out.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6043-Blast-Vac-Multipurpose-Cleaning/dp/B000F5ECRW
It looks like it worked well for Eric O in this old Pontiac.

 

[Donald]

I think Dex-Cool is fine if your car came from the factory with it. Otherwise no.

I avoid the universal coolants and use a coolant designed for my engine although I am fine with a brand like Xerex.

Of course skip Dollar Tree brand oils and coolants.