Thanks for the info qship1996
Platinum might be the bomb then.
Platinum might be the bomb then.
Optima Red top leaking????
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Originally Posted By: oilboy123
Talked to the local sears on the phone. They say they stopped selling Optima because of of all the problems. So what does that tell you.......
Time for something new.
Optima is a Johnson Controls product too...
Talked to the local sears on the phone. They say they stopped selling Optima because of of all the problems. So what does that tell you.......
Time for something new.
Optima is a Johnson Controls product too...
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Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
Talked to the local sears on the phone. They say they stopped selling Optima because of of all the problems. So what does that tell you.......
Time for something new.
Optima is a Johnson Controls product too...
Yup, you are 100% correct sir.
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
Talked to the local sears on the phone. They say they stopped selling Optima because of of all the problems. So what does that tell you.......
Time for something new.
Optima is a Johnson Controls product too...
Yup, you are 100% correct sir.
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
Talked to the local sears on the phone. They say they stopped selling Optima because of of all the problems. So what does that tell you.......
Time for something new.
More like, they stopped selling Optima because DieHard came out with an equivalent.
Talked to the local sears on the phone. They say they stopped selling Optima because of of all the problems. So what does that tell you.......
Time for something new.
More like, they stopped selling Optima because DieHard came out with an equivalent.
Voltage or OCV (open current voltage) can be used on a battery to measure its health but you better adhere to some set standards so that you get a consistent read each time. As pointed, right after a full charge, a battery will display a higher voltage than normal due to the surface charge. I’ve found that usually 4 to 6 hours of rest will get rid of surface charge where you can get a reliable reading. By a standard, I mean that if you park and unload the groceries, then walk away and measure the battery you will get a completely different reading that parking, and taking a reading say 6 or 12 hours later.
To have a regimented procedure means that you are putting the battery through the same paces each time, thus you will get more consistent readings. What I like to do is park home, turn off all electronics including all cabin lights, pop the hood, shut down the engine and get out of the car ASAP. This allows the smallest drain on the battery giving a true reading. Sometimes I do the true OVC test where upon arrival I disconnect the battery so that there is not a parasitic draw, and take my measurements at the 6 and 12 hour intervals. Over time, as the battery ages, you will see the OCV dropping ever slightly.
I do like to take a hydrometer and a voltage reading as the hydrometer looks at each individual cell and gives a much advanced early warning system. Not possible in my situation as I use AGM batteries thus the hydrometer reading is out. I have seen situations where voltage will read normal, while the hydrometer will show a premature cell failure. That premature cell failure can be further tested by calculating the resistance across the entire battery. In the old days we could measure resistance for each individual cell, today that is no longer possible, but trending internal resistance for the entire battery can also give a good indication of premature failure. That is what I am currently doing with my AGM batteries.
To have a regimented procedure means that you are putting the battery through the same paces each time, thus you will get more consistent readings. What I like to do is park home, turn off all electronics including all cabin lights, pop the hood, shut down the engine and get out of the car ASAP. This allows the smallest drain on the battery giving a true reading. Sometimes I do the true OVC test where upon arrival I disconnect the battery so that there is not a parasitic draw, and take my measurements at the 6 and 12 hour intervals. Over time, as the battery ages, you will see the OCV dropping ever slightly.
I do like to take a hydrometer and a voltage reading as the hydrometer looks at each individual cell and gives a much advanced early warning system. Not possible in my situation as I use AGM batteries thus the hydrometer reading is out. I have seen situations where voltage will read normal, while the hydrometer will show a premature cell failure. That premature cell failure can be further tested by calculating the resistance across the entire battery. In the old days we could measure resistance for each individual cell, today that is no longer possible, but trending internal resistance for the entire battery can also give a good indication of premature failure. That is what I am currently doing with my AGM batteries.
Critic you could be right.......
007
" In the old days we could measure resistance for each individual cell, today that is no longer possible, but trending internal resistance for the entire battery can also give a good indication of premature failure. That is what I am currently doing with my AGM batteries."
With an ohm meter? Won't you fry it........
007
" In the old days we could measure resistance for each individual cell, today that is no longer possible, but trending internal resistance for the entire battery can also give a good indication of premature failure. That is what I am currently doing with my AGM batteries."
With an ohm meter? Won't you fry it........
Originally Posted By: mrsilv04
Bought it last month.
I was able to use my battery date reading skills to decode exactly that. Do I win a medal? Or a cookie?
Or a dead Exide battery?
Bought it last month.
I was able to use my battery date reading skills to decode exactly that. Do I win a medal? Or a cookie?
Or a dead Exide battery?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
With an ohm meter? Won't you fry it........
Never use an ohmmeter to measure battery resistance, besides burning up your ohmmeter, you will short the battery which may cause it to explode!
Ahh… we all remember the days when our batteries could not start our cars. It could be due to a discharged battery, old battery, or a completely fine battery but the cable leads may be loose or sulfated, just happened on my sister’s car last week. In each case we are fighting internal resistance which will determine whether we will be able to start our vehicles.
You cannot use an ohmmeter because an ohmmeter supplies a constant current through a circuit, measures the voltage drop and calculates the resistance (R=V/I) We can borrow this equation, the battery in this case becomes the current supplier, we draw a certain amount of current, measure the voltage drop difference and calculate its internal resistance. Unlike a piece of wire, a battery will have a constantly changing resistance. As discharge happens electrolyte chemicals migrate towards the plates, the specific gravity of electrolyte drops, as both produce ever larger resistance. This is the same reason why old batteries or batteries with sulfated connections will have enough power to power your accessories, yet they will be unable to start the car. It is the same exact principle that your local mechanic uses to perform a load test on the battery.
Remember that over time, resistance in a cell or across a series of cells (a battery) will increase as no reaction is 100% complete. Due to this fact, each battery will sulfate over time and its electrolyte solution will decrease from the ideal 1280 specific gravity. This is the reason why we here all obsess about buying fresh batteries from vendors that have high battery turn around.
After a battery has been sitting for a while (4 to 6 hours) to remove surface charge, we can record its voltage, apply a specific current, record the voltage drop, then take the difference in the two voltages, divide by the current applied and we have our internal resistance. We are basically doing the same thing as our local mechanic, and are doing the same calculations as our ohmmeter would do on a circuit.
R=I/V
Lets say that a battery has OVC (open current voltage) of 12.60v. I take a 12w bulb which will consume (12w/12.60v)= roughly 0.99A. If the battery voltage drops to 12.55v then our difference is (0.05v/0.99a)= roughly 0.05 ohms of internal resistance.
Older batteries will produce a greater voltage drop with the same current applied than newer batteries as the internal resistance is much higher, and that is why older batteries have a tougher time starting engines on cold mornings. The prolonged starting is usually the first sign for most people that their battery is about to give out.
With an ohm meter? Won't you fry it........
Never use an ohmmeter to measure battery resistance, besides burning up your ohmmeter, you will short the battery which may cause it to explode!
Ahh… we all remember the days when our batteries could not start our cars. It could be due to a discharged battery, old battery, or a completely fine battery but the cable leads may be loose or sulfated, just happened on my sister’s car last week. In each case we are fighting internal resistance which will determine whether we will be able to start our vehicles.
You cannot use an ohmmeter because an ohmmeter supplies a constant current through a circuit, measures the voltage drop and calculates the resistance (R=V/I) We can borrow this equation, the battery in this case becomes the current supplier, we draw a certain amount of current, measure the voltage drop difference and calculate its internal resistance. Unlike a piece of wire, a battery will have a constantly changing resistance. As discharge happens electrolyte chemicals migrate towards the plates, the specific gravity of electrolyte drops, as both produce ever larger resistance. This is the same reason why old batteries or batteries with sulfated connections will have enough power to power your accessories, yet they will be unable to start the car. It is the same exact principle that your local mechanic uses to perform a load test on the battery.
Remember that over time, resistance in a cell or across a series of cells (a battery) will increase as no reaction is 100% complete. Due to this fact, each battery will sulfate over time and its electrolyte solution will decrease from the ideal 1280 specific gravity. This is the reason why we here all obsess about buying fresh batteries from vendors that have high battery turn around.
After a battery has been sitting for a while (4 to 6 hours) to remove surface charge, we can record its voltage, apply a specific current, record the voltage drop, then take the difference in the two voltages, divide by the current applied and we have our internal resistance. We are basically doing the same thing as our local mechanic, and are doing the same calculations as our ohmmeter would do on a circuit.
R=I/V
Lets say that a battery has OVC (open current voltage) of 12.60v. I take a 12w bulb which will consume (12w/12.60v)= roughly 0.99A. If the battery voltage drops to 12.55v then our difference is (0.05v/0.99a)= roughly 0.05 ohms of internal resistance.
Older batteries will produce a greater voltage drop with the same current applied than newer batteries as the internal resistance is much higher, and that is why older batteries have a tougher time starting engines on cold mornings. The prolonged starting is usually the first sign for most people that their battery is about to give out.
Ah I see calculating resistance. I missed the calculating part.
I realize it will smoke a meter, or at least any thin gauge meter leads I have ever used.
I think the leads will become a fusable link long before the battery even thinks about exploding. But you won't catch me trying it.
Good explanation though, I might try it sometime. What type of AGM do you run.
I realize it will smoke a meter, or at least any thin gauge meter leads I have ever used.
I think the leads will become a fusable link long before the battery even thinks about exploding. But you won't catch me trying it.
Good explanation though, I might try it sometime. What type of AGM do you run.
the midtronics tester does measure the battery internal resistance.
it does it with an ac signal.
just like an esr tester.i use this one.
http://www.flippers.com/esrktmtr.html
its great for checking my nimh aa cells when i suspect they are going bad.without exception bad ones have greatly increased internal resistance.
its real use if checking electrolytic caps.
i have several optima batteries here with no problems.
they were given up for dead by my neighbors.
the real problem is folks run them totally dead and their charger will act if it is running into a dead short.
some will even burn out.
i just use a small 3a charger and let it trip its breaker a few hours.all 3 came up and are fine.
2 78 redtop and 1 d31 yellow.
a real concern would be jump starting a dead one and allowing the alternator to charge it.
real possibility of overheating or even killing it.watched a neighbor kill a cs130 in a truck like that.he held it at a high idle to charge a dead redtop.
let the smoke out of that alt.stator was crispy.
it does it with an ac signal.
just like an esr tester.i use this one.
http://www.flippers.com/esrktmtr.html
its great for checking my nimh aa cells when i suspect they are going bad.without exception bad ones have greatly increased internal resistance.
its real use if checking electrolytic caps.
i have several optima batteries here with no problems.
they were given up for dead by my neighbors.
the real problem is folks run them totally dead and their charger will act if it is running into a dead short.
some will even burn out.
i just use a small 3a charger and let it trip its breaker a few hours.all 3 came up and are fine.
2 78 redtop and 1 d31 yellow.
a real concern would be jump starting a dead one and allowing the alternator to charge it.
real possibility of overheating or even killing it.watched a neighbor kill a cs130 in a truck like that.he held it at a high idle to charge a dead redtop.
let the smoke out of that alt.stator was crispy.
Yes, on a car battery the leads may become a fused connections, but on a motorcycle or garden equipment battery there may be a short because the battery may not have enough energy to burn up the lead wires. I threw the caution out so that people know the danger. Pre-explosion, most flooded batteries will gas extremely for no apparent reason followed by an abrupt temperature change, the first signs of trouble.
I was looking at the Midtronics testers, precisely the EX-1000 I think, but right now I cannot justify the 1000 dollar cost, this is more of something that shops will use and probably an overkill for the average home owner. Some of the cheaper versions the 100, 200 and 300 models are reasonable, but I usually want the highest model with the best accuracy.
Right now I am using the Orbital, and I think that so far I am pleased, but we all know here how bad Exide is, so right now I am wondering whether I was lucky in picking a battery out of the good batch or if manufacturing in Spain has better QC than here in the states. I do know that EU requires and mandates 2 year warranty on most products manufactured and sold within EU.
With prices going up across the board the price gap between Optima, Orbital and Odysseys has closed significantly. At this rate any will do with only a 30 dollar difference. Odyssey use to be at least 50-100 bucks more expensive than the rest of the bunch, the pure lead must have a higher manufacturing cost. That may just be my next battery for experimentation.
I was looking at the Midtronics testers, precisely the EX-1000 I think, but right now I cannot justify the 1000 dollar cost, this is more of something that shops will use and probably an overkill for the average home owner. Some of the cheaper versions the 100, 200 and 300 models are reasonable, but I usually want the highest model with the best accuracy.
Right now I am using the Orbital, and I think that so far I am pleased, but we all know here how bad Exide is, so right now I am wondering whether I was lucky in picking a battery out of the good batch or if manufacturing in Spain has better QC than here in the states. I do know that EU requires and mandates 2 year warranty on most products manufactured and sold within EU.
With prices going up across the board the price gap between Optima, Orbital and Odysseys has closed significantly. At this rate any will do with only a 30 dollar difference. Odyssey use to be at least 50-100 bucks more expensive than the rest of the bunch, the pure lead must have a higher manufacturing cost. That may just be my next battery for experimentation.
My red top is not leaking and it quit working. It has a resting voltage of 11.6 and a cranking voltage of 2.6 volts. Glad I have roadside emergency service. I bought this thing new in April of this year.
Originally Posted By: kaboom10
My red top is not leaking and it quit working. It has a resting voltage of 11.6 and a cranking voltage of 2.6 volts. Glad I have roadside emergency service. I bought this thing new in April of this year.
I have heard nothing but these sort of things regarding the Optima battery family. Don't know how they keep selling this overpriced junk.
My red top is not leaking and it quit working. It has a resting voltage of 11.6 and a cranking voltage of 2.6 volts. Glad I have roadside emergency service. I bought this thing new in April of this year.
I have heard nothing but these sort of things regarding the Optima battery family. Don't know how they keep selling this overpriced junk.
Originally Posted By: Saturn_Fan
Originally Posted By: kaboom10
My red top is not leaking and it quit working. It has a resting voltage of 11.6 and a cranking voltage of 2.6 volts. Glad I have roadside emergency service. I bought this thing new in April of this year.
I have heard nothing but these sort of things regarding the Optima battery family. Don't know how they keep selling this overpriced junk.
There had better be some warranty coverage on this is all I have to say. Since it won't crank or fire it could support a nice big sign in the bed saying what they sold.
Originally Posted By: kaboom10
My red top is not leaking and it quit working. It has a resting voltage of 11.6 and a cranking voltage of 2.6 volts. Glad I have roadside emergency service. I bought this thing new in April of this year.
I have heard nothing but these sort of things regarding the Optima battery family. Don't know how they keep selling this overpriced junk.
There had better be some warranty coverage on this is all I have to say. Since it won't crank or fire it could support a nice big sign in the bed saying what they sold.
Optima batteries had a poorer warranty than a mid-priced standard battery.
I had a red top, three years later the cranking amps were really bad.
Originally Posted By: qship1996
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I see Sears has the Platinum AGM battery that is about $189 Optima prices are jacked up to that range now so it is in the ballpark. I might try it out, maybe wait until it is on sale. Anybody know who makes it?
I remember buying the red top at Costco for $109 about 3 or 4 years ago, now they are up in the $159-189 range at other stores ouch. I think Costco is at $139 now.
The Sears Platinum battery is made by Enersys, the company that produces the fancy Odyssey batteries=I called Enersys and they confirmed the sears Platinum batteries are identical to the Odyssey,just rebadged for sears.The Platinm battery is the Odyssey model pc-1500 with Sears cosmetics{grey case and sears label} Quite the bargain as the identical Odyssey branded battery usually sells for almost $300!!!! Consumer Reports has rated the Platinum/Odyssey battery the best they have ever tested both last year{when I bought mine}, and again this year{look for their Nov.08 issue for the test results} Go to http://www.odysseyfactory.com to read all about them, pretty impressive batteries.
Thats good to know....thats what i replaced my red top with.
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I see Sears has the Platinum AGM battery that is about $189 Optima prices are jacked up to that range now so it is in the ballpark. I might try it out, maybe wait until it is on sale. Anybody know who makes it?
I remember buying the red top at Costco for $109 about 3 or 4 years ago, now they are up in the $159-189 range at other stores ouch. I think Costco is at $139 now.
The Sears Platinum battery is made by Enersys, the company that produces the fancy Odyssey batteries=I called Enersys and they confirmed the sears Platinum batteries are identical to the Odyssey,just rebadged for sears.The Platinm battery is the Odyssey model pc-1500 with Sears cosmetics{grey case and sears label} Quite the bargain as the identical Odyssey branded battery usually sells for almost $300!!!! Consumer Reports has rated the Platinum/Odyssey battery the best they have ever tested both last year{when I bought mine}, and again this year{look for their Nov.08 issue for the test results} Go to http://www.odysseyfactory.com to read all about them, pretty impressive batteries.
Thats good to know....thats what i replaced my red top with.
Well I bought mine from a local battery specialty store. They have every type of battery you can imagine for watches, cameras and the like. Chargers and LED lights. I wouldn't think they would want to be like the big name stores.
I took my battery in yesterday and it read the same after testing as it did before testing. They gladly gave me a free replacement which I'll install this morning. They wouldn't give me another full 3 yr warranty but I have 28 months left.
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