Opti-2 at 92:1?

It's very important, especially when you run leaner oil ratios, to rinse the oil measurement cup (or whatever it is) with the same gasoline/oil mixture and then pour it back in.
Any left over oil in the measuring cup/bottle means your ratio just got less oil.
 
Well I ended up buying some Sabre as well and 2 one qt containers of alkylate fuel and I'm going to try them both - I couldn't find Sabre Pro but I wonder if it's just Sabre in a squeezy pouch? So far I've ran the Sabre at 96:1 and all is good with a significantly reduced exhaust odor.

BTW thanks for the suggestion on cheap alkylate fuel but the nearest Home Depot is an hour and a half round trip.
 
Last edited:
I have a confession: I'm kind of a thicky when it comes to four stroke oil, and I'm definitely a richy when it comes to two stroke mix. 32:1 when I'm rolling my own, 40:1 if it's canned premix.

I'm on another forum and people keep trying to run leaner and leaner 2 stroke oil ratios there too. I will never understand why people keep trying to see how close they can get to running their engine without oil.

As far as I'm concerned if you don't want to run oil, then get battery electric. Not knocking it at all, all my yard equipment is battery electric.
I've always been the same - I prefer heavier grades of oil in my vehicles and equipment and have traditionally ran at least the OE recommended ratios in my 2s stuff as well, if not more, but I want to try something different and see if I can cut some or all of the smell out. If it's not detrimental in my use case then yay me and if it blows up or wears out then it'll get replaced and I wont do it again. As for electric, honestly if I just maintained my 1/2 acre lot then I would strongly consider one, but recently the county dug ditches in everyone's yards on my road and now I can't mow all of it and neither can my next door neighbor so I do all the sides for mine and hers. I also maintain and trim parts of the other neighbor's yard too, so I don't think a battery powered trimmer would work? Or at least it's too much money to spend on a gamble.
Maybe just try leaning the carbs out a bit if the plugs are black or close to it? I would rather go a to a medium-light tan plug on 32:1, as then you are getting clean combustion, and still lubricating the engine. I think a lot of the 2t smell is unburnt fuel from a rich carb setting, and the oil ratio isn't a going to fix that.

Also, I guess it depends on your trimming, if the engine is mostly idling with a few blips then going to a low oil mix probably doesn't matter, but if its WO for nearly the whole tank, then it might not last long.
Carb is tuned well and the plug is light tan.
Just some general opinions. I've been running Stihl equipment at my workplace without issues for over 4 decades by just following the owner's manual recommendations. I was taught that 2 cycle engines are designed to operate best at wide open throttle under load. Too much idling is not good. Running at half-throttle, load or no load is not the best.

Another concept many don't understand is that running significantly more oil in your mix actually means that the engine is running leaner on gasoline (more oil = less gasoline). Think about it. This may require carburetor tweaking to compensate, which many don't have the technical knowledge to comprehend/perform. And, increasingly many 2 cycle engines no longer have easy accessible carb adjustments. Why not just follow the owner's manual?

I wonder if people are having engine issues because they simply don't follow the general principles above? I.E., piddling around the yard with the string trimmer at half-throttle with the incorrect fuel mix much of the time.
I think the whole "re-tune your carb for the mix ratio" thing is a bit blown out of proportion. Other than a slight tweak from the factory setting, my Stihl FS56 ran fine on the recommended 50:1 mix and with no other changes ran fine at 32:1. Then I mixed up both Opti and Sabre at ~96:1 (Sabre got the nod first) and with no changes to the needles, it ran fine on that too.

At 32:1 you're running 4oz oil, at 50:1 you're running 2.6oz and at 96:1 there's 1.3333 oz. That's basically 3%, 2% and 1% oil. Does that small percentage in oil really make that big of a difference?
 
Both that Opti-2 and Amsoil Saber are higher viscosity oils that's why they are advertised that can be run at 100:1. Their viscosity is the same as 40 grade motor oil. I don't know what is the difference in their additive packages.

If it's me - I would't run any equipment at lower ratio than 50:1, but since that oil is thicker I wouldn't go below 65:1.
If you want to make it smells better add a bit like 160:1 or 200:1 castor oil and will smell fantastic. If you want to run it at 100:1 I would definitely add also 100:1 castor oil.
Or just buy another better smelling 2-stroke oil.

I tried opti a couple of years ago at the 1.8 oz / 71:1 ratio in a duraforce Lawnboy that calls for a 32:1 ratio. The mower ran better and even picked up a few rpms. Had absolutely no issues with it.

I called the people at opti, I think the company is called Interlube ( I could be wrong). A lady told me not to mix it any thicker than the 71:1 ratio, even for severe service because of its viscosity.

That's really interesting, when I cut the Opti pouch open the oil was noticeably thinner when compared to Sabre and came out readily without too much urging from me. I'd compare the viscosity to maybe a 3 in 1 oil?
 
Can someone explain the chemistry/physical attributes that allows these 100:1 oils to perform like a 50:1 oil? Do additives make up for less liquid portion?
 
Motul 800 at 32:1, but I can also smell Stihl Ultra at 50:1

I might be one of the select few that doesn’t mind the smell of Stihl ultra. There’s a lot of hate for ultra, maybe justified. I’ve used a bunch of it over the years and never had any problems.

Can someone explain the chemistry/physical attributes that allows these 100:1 oils to perform like a 50:1 oil? Do additives make up for less liquid portion?

I wish I knew the answer to that. I know it does work for a lot of people. Our small engine mechanic does some weekend work for a large landscaping company. He said they run Saber at 1.5 oz per gallon in all their Stihl trimmers and Redmax blowers.
 
I've always been the same - I prefer heavier grades of oil in my vehicles and equipment and have traditionally ran at least the OE recommended ratios in my 2s stuff as well, if not more, but I want to try something different and see if I can cut some or all of the smell out. If it's not detrimental in my use case then yay me and if it blows up or wears out then it'll get replaced and I wont do it again. As for electric, honestly if I just maintained my 1/2 acre lot then I would strongly consider one, but recently the county dug ditches in everyone's yards on my road and now I can't mow all of it and neither can my next door neighbor so I do all the sides for mine and hers. I also maintain and trim parts of the other neighbor's yard too, so I don't think a battery powered trimmer would work? Or at least it's too much money to spend on a gamble.

Carb is tuned well and the plug is light tan.

I think the whole "re-tune your carb for the mix ratio" thing is a bit blown out of proportion. Other than a slight tweak from the factory setting, my Stihl FS56 ran fine on the recommended 50:1 mix and with no other changes ran fine at 32:1. Then I mixed up both Opti and Sabre at ~96:1 (Sabre got the nod first) and with no changes to the needles, it ran fine on that too.

At 32:1 you're running 4oz oil, at 50:1 you're running 2.6oz and at 96:1 there's 1.3333 oz. That's basically 3%, 2% and 1% oil. Does that small percentage in oil really make that big of a difference?
There will nearly always be the "tuning police" who don't ask if you have the carb adjustment correct. They, in fact, tell you that you don't.... and they are hip shooting at best. I have run many oils and ratios as part of a long term test. Yes, sometimes there is a need for a slight adjustment. With today's iffy gasoline quality a good oil can run very dirty. I had that happen with Red Armor. Good gas corrected that issue. I don't mind smelling all 2 stroke exhaust, just some. I had some really stinky and dirty Stihl Ultra and that's why I started testing various oils. Stihl Ultra is one of the coolest running oils. Later testing with Ultra was better smelling, but was dirty. Good alternative oils are, imo, K2 @50:1, Saber @ 64:1, Motorex Crosspower 2t @ 40:1, Red Armor @ 50:1, and Motul 710 @ 40:1. Your results may vary. They all have a light smell that is pleasing to my nose and they run clean. I had very dirty results in my br800 with Motul 800 Off-road, Maxima Super M, and Stihl Ultra. The cleanest oil, by far, was Maxima Super M Injector @ 50:1. Unfortunately the br800 engine had a catastrophic failure while running that oil. Not sure of the root cause. I visited the dealer and all I could see was a dropped pushrod that destroyed a lot of the cam area. Valves were within spec before seizure. Stihl replaced under warranty. Personally, after testing a dozen oils... temperature, rpm, carbon, (edit-- oil film on rocker arms), and runability I would not go leaner on oil with the above listed oils than what I have listed. To do so on my br800 causes higher temperature. I will never own battery equipment. I like internal combustion feel, sound, and smell. Any and all "experts" have at it. Nothing like keyboard commandos. :-)
 
Last edited:
Used this for ages from my childhood up to manhood. Why complicate the market with these micro oil brewers View attachment 336531
I like the challenge of seeing how various oils run and smell. It's sort of a hobby. I am retired with various new and old Stihl equipment. Since some of my equipment is Stihl 4-mix I prefer to use an oil that is widely acclaimed to run clean, without hiccup, and smell good. Why? It's fun.
 
Battery definitely isn't for everyone, and I used to think that they were only for small yards too.

I have four batteries and three chargers(I'm aware not everyone does), and can weed-eat or use any of the other equipment 100% continuously. I do have to stop and change batteries, but by then I'm ready for a drink of water too. Not a big deal.
Battery is certainly getting better, and like mentioned they are great for small yards. They aren't cheap though. I would say most of my small engine customers haven't really noticed a savings. Initial purchase price is higher, and if they need an additional battery or replacement batteries they are quite expensive. This is all for small homeowner lawns who might only use 2 gallons of pre-mix a season.

The noise, emissions, and ease of not mixing fuel and messing with a gasoline engine are all valid reasons to switch though. As far as fuel mix, I usually run 44:1, mainly because my measuring cup has it and it makes me feel good inside, no other reason. I haven't noticed any difference with exhaust smell between the different oil brands, with the exception being the really cheap no-name brands tend to cause a lot of carbon build-up and smoke more.
 
Battery is certainly getting better, and like mentioned they are great for small yards. They aren't cheap though. I would say most of my small engine customers haven't really noticed a savings. Initial purchase price is higher, and if they need an additional battery or replacement batteries they are quite expensive. This is all for small homeowner lawns who might only use 2 gallons of pre-mix a season.

The noise, emissions, and ease of not mixing fuel and messing with a gasoline engine are all valid reasons to switch though. As far as fuel mix, I usually run 44:1, mainly because my measuring cup has it and it makes me feel good inside, no other reason. I haven't noticed any difference with exhaust smell between the different oil brands, with the exception being the really cheap no-name brands tend to cause a lot of carbon build-up and smoke more.
Hey Jeepman... Over the past 7 months or so I have run various oils back to back to back to measure temperature under the same conditions. As a result I have developed a nose for different oils. Smell makes a difference to me, and that is a mark against VP, Red Armor, Dominator, Stihl Ultra, and Motul 800 Off-Road. Not that those oils smell awful, but all things being equal I'll choose something else. It's a personal preference thing. I like Saber, Crosspower 2t, K2, Honda HP2, and Motul 710. There are many oils that I have not whiffed. I can tell within seconds which oil I'm running just by the smell... and I have a weak sense of smell.
 
That's really interesting, when I cut the Opti pouch open the oil was noticeably thinner when compared to Sabre and came out readily without too much urging from me. I'd compare the viscosity to maybe a 3 in 1 oil?
I haven't use the Opti-2 oil but I looked the other day (before I wrote my initial post, on the prev. page) at the oil's SDS and it shows:
Kinematic Viscosity: 13.4 cSt @ 100ºC; 101 cSt @ 40ºC

Page 5, Section 9, 2nd column, 2nd to last line
The PDF is from May 2025.
https://opti2-4.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Opti-2-Two-Cycle-SDS-5-2025.pdf

Those are properties of a 40 grade oil, so I guess it's rather thicker than thinner oil. That's why it can be run at 72:1 similar to Amsoil Saber which people run 80:1 and 100:1. Other 2-stroke oils for both OPE and motorcycles are much thinner that that, with properties of a 30 and 20 grade oil. The last may cause major failure if run lower than 50:1 ratio. I know people who run ATF which is about 5 cSt @ 100ºC (very thin oil) but they run it at about 20:1 (25:1) ratio.

The most important when run 2-stroke oil is to know what upper rod bearing the engine uses - needle rod bearing or just a bushing bearing. Most of todays engines run needle bearings and are fine at 50:1 ratio or lower with thicker oil. However, older engines with bushing rod bearing should not be run on leaner than 25:1 ratios, regardless of the oil thickness.
 
Last edited:
I haven't use the Opti-2 oil but I looked the other day (before I wrote my initial post, on the prev. page) at the oil's SDS and it shows:
Kinematic Viscosity: 13.4 cSt @ 100ºC; 101 cSt @ 40ºC

Page 5, Section 9, 2nd column, 2nd to last line
The PDF is from May 2025.
https://opti2-4.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Opti-2-Two-Cycle-SDS-5-2025.pdf

Those are properties of a 40 grade oil, so I guess it's rather thicker than thinner oil. That's why it can be run at 72:1 similar to Amsoil Saber which people run 80:1 and 100:1. Other 2-stroke oils for both OPE and motorcycles are much thinner that that, with properties of a 30 and 20 grade oil. The last may cause major failure if run lower than 50:1 ratio. I know people who run ATF which is about 5 cSt @ 100ºC (very thin oil) but they run it at about 20:1 (25:1) ratio.

The most important when run 2-stroke oil is to know what upper rod bearing the engine uses - needle rod bearing or just a bushing bearing. Most of todays engines run needle bearings and are fine at 50:1 ratio or lower with thicker oil. However, older engines with bushing rod bearing should not be run on leaner than 25:1 ratios, regardless of the oil thickness.
Many, if not all of Stihl 4-mix engines do not use needle bearings on the wrist pin. There have been seizures especially when air filters are not properly cleaned/installed. On those engines typical 50:1 mix seems to be sufficient under normal conditions.
 
Many, if not all of Stihl 4-mix engines do not use needle bearings on the wrist pin. There have been seizures especially when air filters are not properly cleaned/installed. On those engines typical 50:1 mix seems to be sufficient under normal conditions.
I see, interesting.
How often that bushing bearing fails? I would definitely increase the oil on those 4-mix engines to at least 30:1.

This guy shows failed wrist pin bearing on a 4-mix engine at 6:55.

 
Many, if not all of Stihl 4-mix engines do not use needle bearings on the wrist pin.
Forgot to mention that by default bushing wrist pin bearings require at least 25:1 oil ratio. I don't have an idea why those are spec'd to 50:1. And no, modern synthetic oils cannot compensate for the leaner ratio.
 
I haven't use the Opti-2 oil but I looked the other day (before I wrote my initial post, on the prev. page) at the oil's SDS and it shows:
Kinematic Viscosity: 13.4 cSt @ 100ºC; 101 cSt @ 40ºC

Page 5, Section 9, 2nd column, 2nd to last line
The PDF is from May 2025.
https://opti2-4.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/10/Opti-2-Two-Cycle-SDS-5-2025.pdf

Those are properties of a 40 grade oil, so I guess it's rather thicker than thinner oil. That's why it can be run at 72:1 similar to Amsoil Saber which people run 80:1 and 100:1. Other 2-stroke oils for both OPE and motorcycles are much thinner that that, with properties of a 30 and 20 grade oil. The last may cause major failure if run lower than 50:1 ratio. I know people who run ATF which is about 5 cSt @ 100ºC (very thin oil) but they run it at about 20:1 (25:1) ratio.

The most important when run 2-stroke oil is to know what upper rod bearing the engine uses - needle rod bearing or just a bushing bearing. Most of todays engines run needle bearings and are fine at 50:1 ratio or lower with thicker oil. However, older engines with bushing rod bearing should not be run on leaner than 25:1 ratios, regardless of the oil thickness.
Since it doesn't give a KV40 or Viscosity Index it's pretty hard to say what I'm experiencing, but I guarantee that it is noticeably thinner than Sabre when poured into the same measuring glass.
 
I see, interesting.
How often that bushing bearing fails? I would definitely increase the oil on those 4-mix engines to at least 30:1.

This guy shows failed wrist pin bearing on a 4-mix engine at 6:55.


I have an fs100rx 4-mix that I bought in 2005. It was the primary trimmer on a commercial route for 10 years. No issues ever. No guard, and always .105 string. Various gas station oils, usually at 40:1. During the winter 50:1 if Stihl Ultra was used. As much as I hate Stihl Ultra's carbon buildup I know that it runs cooler than most oils. I've done the testing many times. That being said, if a string trimmer overheats and seizes the operator is nearly always to blame for allowing it or causing it to happen. Love your machines enough to tune in and they will last for decades.
 
Since it doesn't give a KV40 or Viscosity Index it's pretty hard to say what I'm experiencing, but I guarantee that it is noticeably thinner than Sabre when poured into the same measuring glass.
Opti-2 KV40 is there, just right after KV100:
Kinematic Viscosity:
13.4 cSt @ 100ºC
101 cSt @ 40ºC


Here the Amsoil Saber KV (2nd page). Yes, it's a bit thicker oil.
https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g1987.pdf

Kinematic Viscosity:
14 cSt @ 100ºC
107.4 cSt @ 40ºC
 
Back
Top Bottom