OPE and ethanol issues

Messages
10,800
Location
Jupiter, Florida
My equipment's fuel lines and squeezy bulbs are deteriorating at an alarming rate. While I try to use 100LL Avgas when I can, I can't do it all the time. Last week I changed the fuel line and squeezy bulb on my blower. This week, the Oregon yellow OPE fuel line I installed was rock hard and leaking at the tank. I'm 100% certain that ethanol is causing the problems. When I use 100LL, the equipment's fuel lines and bulbs last for years. 1 week lifespan! That's really bad. Any suggestions? Tygon tubing? Brands? Where to source? etc.
 
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Messages
17,298
Location
OH
Cujet, We've had ethanol in our fuel here for years, and I haven't seen any of the problems you're describing on my OPEs. If I knew what to tell you, I would. Is fuel really that bad in FL?
 
Messages
1,855
Location
Australia
There was an issue with Oregon's Tygon fuel line and E10 fuel a little while back but from what I remember reading it should be well and truly OK by now.
 
Messages
364
Location
Southeast USA
The biggest problem I have with E10 is gumming in the carburetor during the off season. I really haven't seen it deteriorate the elastomers noticeably. I do use yellow Tygon fuel lines on anything that I have to replace, which hasn't been that much. I heard that some Chinese knock off yellow Tygon fuel line was floating around and that it was pretty bad stuff. While I am impressed by the mechanical quality of some Chinese OPE engines, they do seem to be deficient with respect to the quality of the rubber components pretty much across the board.
 

Cujet

Thread starter
Messages
10,800
Location
Jupiter, Florida
Yeah, I thought I was being smart and I got fuel line from the model aircraft hobby shop. That stuff swelled up inside the tank. So the Oregon stuff shrinks and the model stuff swells. How nice... I've spent too much time repairing things that should have been non issues.
 
Messages
11,196
Location
NY Capital District
I replaced the fuel line on the lawnmower because I tried adding a fuel filter and it didn't work so well. I replaced it with some cheap fuel line from Advance, and it's been fine so far this season.
 
Messages
364
Location
Southeast USA
Yeah, if you could find some black nitrile fuel line that would be great, or like the guy above said, just get the standard stuff from Advanced Auto. I do know that silicone based RC fuel line is not a good idea. I've tried that many years ago and it basically turned to mush. I believe it is optimized for Nitromethane and petroleum based solvents tend to dissolve it.
 
Messages
25,985
Location
Upstate NY
The OPE dealers around here sell yellow'ish fuel line that I think is B&S in a few different sizes. Most OPE larger than chainsaw or weed whackers take 1/4". If you need 1/4" I would look for braided. Even Lowes and probably HD sell fuel line. At Lowes the smaller line is with the OPE and the larger is with the hose & tubing by the foot. I find mice rather than E10 to be my fuel line enemy. I have told Billy-The-Kit that there is a can of cat food for every mouse dead or alive (hopefully dead) he brings me.
 
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Cujet

Thread starter
Messages
10,800
Location
Jupiter, Florida
Just replaced the original 1/4 inch fuel line on my JD lawn tractor. It was cracked like crazy, all the way through. Disgusting after only 5 years. I used typical "made in USA" 1/4 inch line from the auto parts store as a replacement. The fuel tank also had a rubber seal deteriorate and leak. But, the small equipment uses 1/8 inch ID or smaller clear line. That's the stuff I really have trouble with.
 
Messages
25,985
Location
Upstate NY
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Just replaced the original 1/4 inch fuel line on my JD lawn tractor. It was cracked like crazy, all the way through. Disgusting after only 5 years. I used typical "made in USA" 1/4 inch line from the auto parts store as a replacement. The fuel tank also had a rubber seal deteriorate and leak. But, the small equipment uses 1/8 inch ID or smaller clear line. That's the stuff I really have trouble with.
There are several sizes of translucent fuel line. In some cases one needs to worry about both the ID and OD. I have 3 different sizes below 1/4".
 
Messages
5,123
Location
Pittsburgh,PA U.S.A.
Probably the best fuel tubing is Tygon fuel tubing. You can get it from McMaster-Carr. There are several kinds of Tygon tubing. The kind you want is Tygon F-4040-A , and McMaster-Carr sells it in just about any ID you could use. McMaster-Carr has a special deal with UPS. Expect you package to arive at your door in one day, two days tops. And the shipping charge will be low. The Tygon fuel tubing is translucent yellow, so you can see the fuel level in it. Adding an extra inline filter is also a good idea.
 
Messages
2,264
Location
Texas
Well I was going to get some yard work done today....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XJWmYp60Ag Why cant someone like gates, goodyear, or parker make a high quality fuel line? I would happily pay $10 a foot if that was the last fuel line I had to put on. I will have to order some of the tygon stuff and see how it does.
 
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Messages
7,430
Location
beaver land EH?
traditionally-speaking, there are no regulations imposed on small engine manufacturers as to what sort of bare-minimum reqirements and testing standards required for materials, etc. on them. Also compounded by a lot of latecomers (chonda, etc.) from other developing countries, they would resort to aggressive cost-cutting measures on materials used also, in order to maximise profits. Ergo, you see vinyl fuel lines used in some 2cycle trmmer engines, supposedly fuel-resistant rubber primer bulb(s) disintegrated in less than a year, etc. I bet ya their fuel lines are not even up to the nitrilated type that is certified for gasoline automobile use but some cheep rubber stuff that meets the basic criteria of resistant to swelling when exposed to hydrocarbon fuels and that's it. My 2c's worth. good quality fuel lines, a 85micron mesh fuel filter and some latest API grade multiviscosity oils will do justice in my case (I do B&S mostly). Q.
 
Messages
9,125
Location
Marshfield , MA
If the rig permits using a fuel shut off, install one. Run the carb dry after every use, Dose the gas with a dab of MMO or outboard oil. Since I have started doing this, my fuel troubles have pretty much gone away. I have replaced fuel lines as needed. Worst break was the fuel line in the Husqua whatiz weed whacker. 2 bucks from Lowes fixed it. I just spent 40$ on Tecumseh carb bits for a 25 yr old HM100. That included some new fuel hose. I read the instructions for it and it advised me to do what I have been doing.
 
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