Onion inspired coolant filter

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And there is this possibility
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Just 1/16 inch of mineral deposit on 1 inch cast iron is equivalent to 4 1/2 inches of cast iron, reduing heat dissipation by 40%.
Corrosion deposits of any kind raise the engine operating temperatures.
A spot of rust raises the temperature inside an engine as much as 700 degrees, causing hot spots and loss of cooling efficiency.


Saying that you have had "no problems" probably means that you have not had known mechanical failures. But, a buildup of material on your engine walls could mean extra wear at places in your engine due to hot spots resulting in less power and more fuel use as the engine ages even though no major failures occur.
 
To rule something out as unnecessary would do away with most of human endeavour.

I like the idea, along with bypass filtration, centrifuges, Auto-Rx et al...they are ideas, unnecessary for most, but so is Synthetic oil, car wax and any number of approved topics.

Would I do same as here ?

Probably not...if I was keeping the E30, I might splice one into the bubble vent, and see what it collected.
 
Fuel filters are made to NOT pass water, although they can.
Water and paper fuel filters are not the best combination for the paper integrity itself.

This is not for me.
 
Here are pics of the next filter run, which was 601 miles and two periods of extended idling mixed in. The paper held up fine and it was a real chore to separate it from the glue that held it in place to the can. You can see that the sand was evenly caught in all the pleats.

Filter was not clogged or blocked. I have installed a Napa Gold 3033 which is a wix 33033. I will run that one for 1,000 miles and repost. At which time I will drain radiator, replace coolant, and then run for 1 year before repeating coolant filter experiment.

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It is either residual casting sand from when the block was cast or it is the silicate drop out that I have read about in cooling section. Those are my top two guesses.
 
My last run. Ran for 1,000 miles. Did this the first of december just been to busy to get the pic posted.

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No visible sand in the pic, but there was some sand caught in a few of the pleats that was appearant when scraped with my finger. Seeing this was run the longest and had the least sand; I am goin to stop here.

My game plan as a result of this experiment will be, prior to changing coolant I will run one of these filters for 1,000 miles, then change coolant. I change coolant once a year and this will be an easy indicator as to whats going on internally to the cooling system.

Others may think this is a waste but it is such a trivial amount of money and i really hate running my old coolant through a coffee filter to see whats in it, this method is more appealing to me.
 
Originally Posted By: MC5W20
It is either residual casting sand from when the block was cast or it is the silicate drop out that I have read about in cooling section. Those are my top two guesses.
..would you know how many miles on that used coolant..maybe, I need to re-think dex-cool..I hate having to replace heater cores..
 
I put the same filter on our Escape at least 20k ago. Never thought to change it early. Also put a filter on PS system. It's been making noise.. maybe that's why!
 
I bought the van used so I don't know previous history. The coolant in their now is about 14 months old, but I don't do a complete flush - I just drain the radiator and refill, so some of the coolant left in there was old, but how old I don't know.

Do a drain and refill onced a year and you will never have to worry about your dexcool. Much easier then a flush also.
 
With the number of water pump failures that I've seen, all usually caused by seal leaks, makes you wonder what is so abrasive in the coolant? Add in eternal life coolants to the mix so that you never get those abrasives out of the system and...

In some cars, water pump replacement is a maintenance item.

I think it comes down to the numbers and $3 isn't too big of an investment. If they want to force us to keep a coolant in use almost forever, then the automaker should be forced to include some type of filtration. Until then, you can either change your antifreeze in 1/4-1/2 of the recommended intervals, or you can add some type of filtration. Smart $3 investment is cheaper than $25/gallon of dealer pretty-colored antifreeze!
 
As I was doing a drain and refill of my radiator and overflow reservoir of my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder (VQ35DE A/T), there was a lot of sediment that came out of the overflow reservoir. I didn't examine the coolant thoroughly, looked green and clear while draining though. Due to the sediment present in the reservoir, I remembered this thread and am considering running a coolant filter for a brief period to see if it catches any significant amounts of sediment, and if so, probably run the filter with similar change intervals as the OP and stop once the filter is mostly clean. In which hose would I install the filter?
 
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