Once In the Truck's Life Air Filter Replacement

[Chris142]

My diesel pulls the retriction gage down every 3000 miles or so. About 10k for my jeep

 

[splinter]

Looks as if it's done its job. Plenty of flow capacity with that filter & airbox combination, particularly upstream of a little 4.3L. fwiw my OE GM fitment truck air filters have a blue perimeter seal.

 

[mjoekingz28]

That AF looks like a Fram- not an ACDelc.

 

[George7941]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28

That AF looks like a Fram- not an ACDelc.

Good observation! The filter is actually a Napa Gold 2488 (Wix). When my truck was new, the first UOA came up with a very high Silicon reading (over a 100), so I immediately took the OE GM filter off and installed the Napa. Made no difference to the high Si readings. What I did during the recent filter change was to reinstall the original filter that came with the truck. This GM filter has a black rubber seal, not blue. The figures I posted were correct, the filter has 130k km/eight years of service on my nine year old truck with 140k km on it. The Si readings have been steadily coming down over the years, with the last UOA, a month ago, at 13ppm. Not sure of the source of the Si. Gasketing? I will start a new post on that.

 

[SilverSnake]

I think everyone should buy expensive vehicles and then try to save a few bucks on oil and filter changes, air filter changes and the like. I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum. Just more reasons I don't buy used cars or trucks.

 

[Garak]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with what the OP did. It's very likely better than repeated changing of the air filter, and there is proof of that, from the air filter manufacturers themselves. I commend him for having the commitment to maintenance that he did by installing the gauge.

 

[George7941]

Originally Posted By: SilverSnake

I think everyone should buy expensive vehicles and then try to save a few bucks on oil and filter changes, air filter changes and the like. I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum. Just more reasons I don't buy used cars or trucks.

Used truck coming on the market will not be an issue since I plan on keeping the truck till rust really damages it, my best guess is around 2023. A couple of years after I bought the truck in 2006 I had a number of dealership salesmen call me trying to sell me a new truck and my standard reply to them was to mark down the year 2023 in their calendar and call me then if they wanted my business. When I first bought my truck I was changing the oil every 4k mi. The OLM and repeated UOA results have made me extend the OCI and I was at twice yearly/ 5k mi OCI for many years. I am now moving to 6k mi/ nine months OCI. Foolishly trying to save money? I don't think so, I trust the OLM and the UOA results. Likewise I trust the restriction gauge and if it says the filter is fine then I will go with that. In heavy truck maintenance manuals they instruct that you do not even open the air filter housing for inspection in case dirt falls into the intake ducting and to wait till the restriction gauge calls for filter element replacement.

 

[Jarlaxle]

Originally Posted By: SilverSnake

I think everyone should buy expensive vehicles and then try to save a few bucks on oil and filter changes, air filter changes and the like. I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum. Just more reasons I don't buy used cars or trucks.

Please explain, in detail, EXACTLY how the OP's actions will harm the vehicle in any way, shape, or form.

 

[DoubleWasp]

His truck has only made it 8 years so far. Thats like nothing at all. Obviously that thing is dying from his horrific maintenance practices.

 

[raytseng]

I've said it before, but it's really the change in airbox design, where filters are now upside down +ducting work to avoid the majority of dirt. I bet the manual already did say this and advocated a 30k change or higher. Designs from the 90s and earlier where the air just hits a vertical filter directly , or going further back those round circle filter, will definitely get dirty faster, and could need the 15k air filter changes; so it's not a universal myth like 3k/3mo oil changes. Then people go and remove all the ducting and the airbox to put in a cold air intake and an aftermarket K&N or other cone filter, and somehow justifying to themselves that they are saving money because they're cleaning it every year.

 

[The_Eric]

Originally Posted By: SilverSnake

I think everyone should buy expensive vehicles and then try to save a few bucks on oil and filter changes, air filter changes and the like. I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum. Just more reasons I don't buy used cars or trucks.

You don't know how filters work, do you? They don't let more debris in as they are used. Filters (air filters too) work better as they collect contaminants- they will do so, up to the point where they become a restriction to whatever system is using it. On a typical gas engine, that can be a surprisingly long time. There is lots of misinformation out there and lots of misconceptions as to what constitutes "proper" vehicle care. Spending money because you THINK something needs done or replaced isn't anywhere near as effective as you think. You should do some reading on the topic- read some actual lab based reports. The lab equipment doesn't lie. The O/P isn't hurting a thing.

Originally Posted By: George7941

Likewise I trust the restriction gauge and if it says the filter is fine then I will go with that. In heavy truck maintenance manuals they instruct that you do not even open the air filter housing for inspection in case dirt falls into the intake ducting and to wait till the restriction gauge calls for filter element replacement.

Correct.

 

[ecotourist]

Was recently at a friend's house. Her 2006 Honda Odyssey had a ventilation / air conditioning problem. There was little air flow to the front seats and none at all in the center or back. We changed out the cabin filter which was packed with dirt half way up the pleats. Presto, ventilation/ air conditioning problem solved. Looks like the cabin air filter had never been changed. We checked the engine air filter and found it very clean. She had been having her Honda serviced by a local and generally reliable but non Honda garage. When to change a filter depends on when it needs changing. As long as you have some way to check on its condition (ideally measuring restriction but at least visualization) you're good to go. I agree that changing filters too often is a waste of resources. I'm not so concerned about using a cheap cabin air filter. But a good quality engine air filter is the way to go. Concerning rust, if you aren't already doing this, suggest you check for gravel/dirt/debris on the body "shelf" immediately above the rear wheel wells. You can easily run your fingers around the fender lip and feel it. I've noticed trucks very often start to rust right there. I've carefully washed this shelf space for many years on my cars and have never had a rust problem there. The shelf on trucks is quite a bit wider.

 

[columnshift]

Originally Posted By: SilverSnake

I think everyone should buy expensive vehicles and then try to save a few bucks on oil and filter changes, air filter changes and the like. I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum. Just more reasons I don't buy used cars or trucks.

I think that whenever someone buys ANY big ticket item like a house or a boat or whatever, they should make periodic bonfires with the money in their wallet to appease the gods of chance while shaking a rattle. You know, just in case it might somehow have a benefit. Let the man speak. If he's got a proposed science behind his reasoning, pick it apart scientifically. I thought the whole purpose of this board was to get past superstition. It's not "saving money" to do something with no measurable benefit - I too am now wondering "if there's no restriction, whats actually the problem??"

 

[mjoekingz28]

Ecotourist, please analyze what you say. Your lungs may be filled with the air downstream of the cabin filter. So, if you get a [censored] one, then there may be a possibility it was mishandled, made with toxic glue, etc, etc

 

[hattaresguy]

My old work truck had the same filter, I changed it at 30k miles and it was super clean even after living on dusty jobsites. Chevy puts a nice bend in the intake which is hard for dirt to follow. I never changed it again, the filter had 60k on it when I sold the truck. Some of the guys that work for me say they average about 100k between replacements. GM uses that filter and box all the way up to the 6L's in the 3/4 tons so for the 4.3 their is a ton of reserve capacity. I bet that filter would have to be 60% clogged before a driver noticed it, maybe more. Remember their is at least a 40% margin built in for the 6L, so for the 4.3 its probably 100%!

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: SilverSnake

I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum.

Neither can I. The OP here demonstrates, with objective measurements, that the filter is still filtering effectively (UOAs) and that it's not posing a restriction to the engine (restriction gauge). And people still advocate wasting money on replacing items that still have useful life left in them. I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd

Originally Posted By: SilverSnake

I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum.

Neither can I. The OP here demonstrates, with objective measurements, that the filter is still filtering effectively (UOAs) and that it's not posing a restriction to the engine (restriction gauge). And people still advocate wasting money on replacing items that still have useful life left in them. I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum.

Completely true. Until coming here I was convinced that you changed air filters often. But once I learned from the smart folks here I quickly changed my habits. Saving money is only one of many benefits...

 

[RoadRaceJosh]

Originally Posted By: SilverSnake

I think everyone should buy expensive vehicles and then try to save a few bucks on oil and filter changes, air filter changes and the like. I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum. Just more reasons I don't buy used cars or trucks.

Over servicing of the air cleaner almost always causes more harm than good. When you open the air filter housing some dirt gets past the air filter seal and ends up in the engine. The restriction gauge and oil analysis are far better maintenance tools than tossing in an air filter every 15k or other arbitrary distance.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Joshua_Skinner

Originally Posted By: SilverSnake

I think everyone should buy expensive vehicles and then try to save a few bucks on oil and filter changes, air filter changes and the like. I can't believe some of the things I read on this forum. Just more reasons I don't buy used cars or trucks.

Over servicing of the air cleaner almost always causes more harm than good. When you open the air filter housing some dirt gets past the air filter seal and ends up in the engine. The restriction gauge and oil analysis are far better maintenance tools than tossing in an air filter every 15k or other arbitrary distance.

Depends on the design. `The Toyota air box causes debris to fall DOWN into the intake side of the box. Getting dirt into the engine side would take some work since it lifts UP and off.

 

[ccap41]

Originally Posted By: George7941

Just checked RockAuto, the Wix 42487 for my truck is $17.68 + shipping. Absolutely no point in replacing the existing filter with a poor quality $10 filter. My point is, if the existing filter is not offering any restriction, it is of no benefit to replace it with a new one, whether it is a $10 filter or a $17 filter. FWIW, I bought the restriction gauge decades ago and transfer it from vehicle to vehicle. I have a Dwyer Magnehelic gauge that measures inches of water column and I verify the accuracy of the restriction gauge by applying vacuum to it and comparing its reading to that of the Dwyer gauge.

Can you only check the restriction when it is idling with the hood up? Or do you have a remote guage for inside the cabin for while you're driving?