OLD garage door pulley repair

[JHZR2]

I have some very old, somewhat oversized, wood garage doors on one of the buildings I own.

The other day I pulled one open and a pulley came crashing down. Good thing a car wasn’t directly below!

The pulley is old. The bearing is worn.

There is some irregular wear. Notice how in the second to last image, the bearings only appear about halfway across the gap, while in the last picture, they fill much more of the gap.

The pulley just sat up against a piece of sheet metal. Nothing fancy. It must have seized a lot before shearing the bolts. The springs on the door help enough for it to have not been an issue.

The bearing must have had irregular wear from sitting under spring tension for decades. It’s also pretty darn dry, which means I’ll need to service all of them. But first things first…

How to repair the one that sheared off? I know I can probably find a new one that is the same size, but it is highly likely that it is some Chinese junk with a sealed bearing. I’d prefer to use this one and repair it. I assume the bearing would press out of the wheel, and by doing so, I can replace some/all balls. I’m guessing it’s servicable bearing?????? It would be a good excuse to buy a hydraulic press

The pulley didn’t seem to be offset from the sheet metal by a washer. Either the inner race (?) that the bolt goes through used to be thicker on one side and got worn down from years of seizing and moving, or a washer fell on the ground that I can’t find, or it was just never there. It seems to me that there should be a washer, holding the pulley off of the sheet metal, correct?

Now for all of them, what’s the best way to clean? For rollers I’ve used Ed’s red after wiping them down. These are too big/dirty. I’m thinking gasoline or diesel? Then grease back up with some bearing grease that I have laying around…

 

[wpod]

Talk to a garage door place.

 

[JHZR2]

Talk to a garage door place.

That’s not why I posted in the DIY section. This is a bearing that needs to be repaired/lubed.

Actually four of them, or eight if I include the doors at my home as well. Good to do.

 

[TCL]

First, I'd clean it up and see what you have to work with.

 

[TheLastWord]

Interesting design, but can't see the forest for the trees. Never saw this type before, overall pics please.

Bearings come in standard sizes. Some Japanese are excellent and affordable. I won't worry much about quality. Several minutes on a 3600 rpm motor bearing would exceed the momentary rpm of years of use in your door. Proper lube is the key.

 

[74DartSport]

Will that bearing press out? If so take it to a bearing supplier or measure and search yourself.
Where in NJ? Ardom Bearing in Lakewood or South Plainfield I’ve used.

 

[Dinoburner]

Agree with wpod as when the pully bearing on my solid wood door failed , Fimble doors had what was needed. They were concerned about my abilities to handle the spring tension. This was a decade ago and now that I`m in my eighties someone else will do any future work.

 

[JHZR2]

Interesting design, but can't see the forest for the trees. Never saw this type before, overall pics please.

Bearings come in standard sizes. Some Japanese are excellent and affordable. I won't worry much about quality. Several minutes on a 3600 rpm motor bearing would exceed the momentary rpm of years of use in your door. Proper lube is the key.

I don’t have access to it, but it’s really not more than what I showed. The pulley is just a wheel as shown, with a groove for the metal cable.

Will that bearing press out? If so take it to a bearing supplier or measure and search yourself.
Where in NJ? Ardom Bearing in Lakewood or South Plainfield I’ve used.

That’s my curiosity? Can the bearing press half its cage out, then free the balls, grease, and re-press in?

I am all over NJ.

Agree with wpod as when the pully bearing on my solid wood door failed , Fimble doors had what was needed. They were concerned about my abilities to handle the spring tension. This was a decade ago and now that I`m in my eighties someone else will do any future work.

I don’t really want to buy another because I suspect it will be lower quality Chinese stuff.

 

[facility1]

you should be able to press out the old bearing, providing you have a press or a large vise,,or take to a bearing/machine shop and let them do it,a sealed bearing would work just fine, and a new shaft on which it mounts on, hopefully this will not cost a lot. or of course a garage door repair/dealer if you lack the tools etc to do. Or maybe it is time for replacement new doors.

 

[CarbonToast]

I don't know where you can buy a race or balls individually. Even a no name bearing is going to last longer than you need. Sealed/shielded is probably better becuase it will keep the dust out.

Measure the bearing OD, ID, and Thickness search it on mcmaster using the filters.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rotary-bearings/

If you can't find exactly the same size. It's not a high speed or precision system you can probably use a wider/narrower bearing and larger ID. You could use a grinder to open up the bore on the pulley to accommodate a larger OD.

 

[JHZR2]

you should be able to press out the old bearing, providing you have a press or a large vise,,or take to a bearing/machine shop and let them do it,a sealed bearing would work just fine, and a new shaft on which it mounts on, hopefully this will not cost a lot. or of course a garage door repair/dealer if you lack the tools etc to do. Or maybe it is time for replacement new doors.

No way would I replace these. They’re classic and built strong, far nicer than any new doors.

I do think they must press out. They wouldn’t go together any other way that I can see.

Anything new is probably Chinese junk.

 

[JHZR2]

Interesting design, but can't see the forest for the trees. Never saw this type before, overall pics please.

Bearings come in standard sizes. Some Japanese are excellent and affordable. I won't worry much about quality. Several minutes on a 3600 rpm motor bearing would exceed the momentary rpm of years of use in your door. Proper lube is the key.

Here’s some pictures of the whole thing.

The main thing to see is this - the few balls seen here are a smaller diameter.

See that? Something is worn there. If I go the opposite way the inner race can move much further against the worn section

 

[JHZR2]

Even better, I just pressed it out. Easy.

You could see why it was hanging up and dragging.

I’ll really have to check this with my other wheels too!

I think the bearing is a 200cc equivalent. Does anyone know of a good catalog and way to select a bearing? I’d prefer an open one so it can be serviced.

@Kestas is there a standard table of dimensions and cross references you can recommend?

 

[TheLastWord]

Thanks, impressive. I meant the entire mechanism, the whole setup, springs, levers, supports, etc. I found something on the web, but not sure which one you have. Very rich in history, worthy of preservation.

Any sign of maker, date, patent, etc.

 

[JTK]

Not quite a 1/2" x 1-1/8" x 5/16" bearing...

Are all pulleys on all the doors the same? I wonder if you could find some markings on one of them.

Looks like a custom built setup from back in the day? Could you imagine calling a garage door guy in? They wouldn't touch this stuff, but would be happy to rip it all out and install new.

 

[Nukeman7]

I think the bearing is a 200cc equivalent. Does anyone know of a good catalog and way to select a bearing? I’d prefer an open one so it can be serviced.

@Kestas is there a standard table of dimensions and cross references you can recommend

Start by looking at the online McMaster-Carr Bearing Catalog. The bearing trade number in the left column is universal and should cross over to any brand like SKF, NTN, FAG/Schaeffler, Timken, Koyo, etc.

 

[JHZR2]

Not quite a 1/2" x 1-1/8" x 5/16" bearing...

Are all pulleys on all the doors the same? I wonder if you could find some markings on one of them.

Looks like a custom built setup from back in the day? Could you imagine calling a garage door guy in? They wouldn't touch this stuff, but would be happy to rip it all out and install new.

I was thinking 1 1/8 or 1 3/16 by 3/8 ID and 3/8 W.

I see a 200cc, a 1614 and a 3014 I believe, all of which may work.

But none seem like an open bearing which I’d prefer.

I did have to order replacement springs a few years back, and the overhead door folks had no issues servicing these.

But to spend $100 on a $2 bearing seems silly.

 

[TheLastWord]

I was thinking 1 1/8 or 1 3/16 by 3/8 ID and 3/8 W.

I see a 200cc, a 1614 and a 3014 I believe, all of which may work.

But none seem like an open bearing which I’d prefer.

I did have to order replacement springs a few years back, and the overhead door folks had no issues servicing these.

But to spend $100 on a $2 bearing seems silly.

Seems cheap to me. You've done all the work. Easy, peasy. You mentioned buying a press? If you don't want a Chinesium press, they are big $$$. Now not needed.

 

[Nukeman7]

I was thinking 1 1/8 or 1 3/16 by 3/8 ID and 3/8 W.

I see a 200cc, a 1614 and a 3014 I believe, all of which may work.

But none seem like an open bearing which I’d prefer.

I did have to order replacement springs a few years back, and the overhead door folks had no issues servicing these.

But to spend $100 on a $2 bearing seems silly.

Here is a 1614 open bearing for $10. However, I can't vouch for the brand, seller or quality.

 

[CarbonToast]

If you really want an open bearing. Just pop the dust shields out of the shielded bearing.

A shielded bearing is going to last longer. The open bearing will attract dirt.