Old Engine Motor Oil

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I can't see the pictures, can you try posting them again another way?

If it looks as clean as you make it sound you should probably start using some proper motor oil that actually has anti wear additives in it.
 
My guess would be that the engine builders son may have passed on the wrong information, and the builder really used modern 30 weight. I've know a few old school mechanics who really disliked multi-viscosity oils for one reason or another. One in particular, a guy who used to rebuild Checker taxi cab engines (one of which was the very same Chevy 350) told me he thought they were the cause of a lot of problems back in the day. But preferring to use non-detergent oil-now that's REAL old school.
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
I agree. Pull a cover (and post pics!). If it's clean, run a stout oil like Rotella T6 or T5.


+1 Rotella T5 10w-30 in particular or Mobil Delvac 10w-30...if u can find it
 
I don't think of your engine as "old" or "vintage"...

But there were a couple of interesting schools of thought many years ago.

1st was that you should never run a detergent oil in an engine that was run on ND oil...many truly vintage (30s and earlier) owners had problems with all that sludge coming loose...correlation? causality? Who knows...it was thought to be so (discussed with the engine builder when the Packard's engine came out in 1976).

2nd was that (and you'll laugh) that the Non-detergent oil was more "pure" and lubricated better because it had no additives, just oil...

3rd was that any multi-grade caused sludge (and back in the day, VI chemistry might have been the cause...or it might have been the incredible carbon build-up, fuel dilution, and NOx blowby from those old engines that used to be changed out with every season when using mono-grade...that then started to really build up in the multi-grade that was run for a longer OCI)

So, I suspect that your engine, though I wouldn't call it genuinely vintage, has been the victim of these old ways of thinking. I would run very short intervals with a good conventional oil...and keep a close eye on the oil pressure...

Most of the sludge will probably be in the bottom of the oil pan...if it were mine, I would pull and clean the pan...the galleries are likely OK...
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
I don't think of your engine as "old" or "vintage"...

But there were a couple of interesting schools of thought many years ago.

1st was that you should never run a detergent oil in an engine that was run on ND oil...many truly vintage (30s and earlier) owners had problems with all that sludge coming loose...correlation? causality? Who knows...it was thought to be so (discussed with the engine builder when the Packard's engine came out in 1976).

2nd was that (and you'll laugh) that the Non-detergent oil was more "pure" and lubricated better because it had no additives, just oil...

3rd was that any multi-grade caused sludge (and back in the day, VI chemistry might have been the cause...or it might have been the incredible carbon build-up, fuel dilution, and NOx blowby from those old engines that used to be changed out with every season when using mono-grade...that then started to really build up in the multi-grade that was run for a longer OCI)

So, I suspect that your engine, though I wouldn't call it genuinely vintage, has been the victim of these old ways of thinking. I would run very short intervals with a good conventional oil...and keep a close eye on the oil pressure...

Most of the sludge will probably be in the bottom of the oil pan...if it were mine, I would pull and clean the pan...the galleries are likely OK...


One more thought as well - way back in my teenage days, (late '70's) a lot of the old timers I knew who worked on motors believed that a rebuilt motor had to be broken in on non-detergent motor oil. Their thinking was it washed out all the metal shavings and helped the rings seat better as the additives would "get in the way" of the rings trying to seat. They would run non-detergent 30 weight for 500 miles, then change it to a detergent oil. These "old timers" were in their 60's in the mid to late '70's, so their experience dates back to the '30's and '40's. Perhaps, the "Dad" who rebuilt the OP's 350 learned the same thing and somewhere along the way the info got mixed up and later owners kept running non-detergent - just guessing here, but I think you're probably right about the 30 weight mentality. I'm a big straight weight fan myself.
 
I'm no expert but I thought it was pretty common to run non-detergent oil for racing applications. Maybe I misunderstood. In any case I'd wean it off of that as already described.

Given it's age and application, I'm assuming this engine has an aggressive cam, and probably flat tappets. If so, I think the suitability of QS Defy for an engine like this is a bit over-prescribed. It's SL spec, which isn't exactly high in ZDDP, just a bit higher than SM/SN. It might be fine for cleaning but long term I'd probably phase it into using VR1, Brad Penn or something else in that neighborhood. This is the kind of engine those oils are designed for.
 
Is anyone else having problems viewing the pictures. I checked them again and they seem to be fine. Regardless there was no hint of sludge so I am not concerned about that as an issue now though I do plan to switch to a detergent oil. Just not sure which one yet.
 
The photos do not show up. Upload them with tinypic and just post the link that's for forums.

I'll stick with Rotella T6 or T5 if there isn't sludge.
 
Here are the pics again:

mvpwf4.jpg
 
Thanks for the pictures.
The very short OCI has keep the engine quite clean.
You will have no issues running a modern detergent oil.
I think QS Defy 5W-30 should be a good OTC oil choice for the way you're running the car.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Thanks for the pictures.
The very short OCI has keep the engine quite clean.
You will have no issues running a modern detergent oil.
I think QS Defy 5W-30 should be a good OTC oil choice for the way you're running the car.


Agreed. Or a light HDEO.
 
Having read all the posts and with many small block GM rebuilds under my belt, I too would run a modern detergent oil(even if it was dirty). The 5W30 Defy recommendation would be a great choice.

Over the years as my old oil stash is used up, it has been replaced by 5W30 (or 20 in my truck's case). I am particularly fond of the Quaker State GRP III 5W30 syns that are often on sale. I still think the Delo SAE30 I have left is a really good oil, but in the search for maximum efficiency, the lower visc is the way to go. I've been messing with 2.5L Jeep four cylinders in my off road toys for some time now and so far, the 5W30 has been great. While my engine choice in my new buggy project is still up in the air, I'm leaning towards a modded Jeep 2.5L, which I intend on running a 5W20 (or possibly a 0W20) and will see how it goes in a design that historically sheds iron.
 
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