Old Air Compressor

JC1

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Nov 29, 2008
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Oshawa, Ontario Canada
Okay, took me a while to get to it, but I grabbed some photos of it the other night.

Here's what I've found about the compressor so far.

Manufacturer is Webster Air Equipment Limited, model 24 - 2. The motor is made by Baldor Industrial Motor, and the electrical box on it is a Square D.

What
I took the tank drain plug out, and barely a drop of oil, basically whatever stuck to the drain plug. Belt is in good condition.

The quick connect coming out of the tank is leaky, so I will need to replace it.

It definitely can build pressure, but with the leak, I didn't keep it running, so don't know if it will reach full pressure without issue. There's nothing to suggest it won't, though.

Was that drain for the oil or the air tank? Nice it's made in London Ontario. Will probably run forever if its maintained properly.
 
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Taken from another owner's manual on hand. 20201004_143108.jpg
 
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You will be fine either way but historically and traditionally recips used straight ND oil because of its true viscosity and they wanted any contaminants to simply fall out. That doesn't mean much with modern designs and oils.

Use either.
 
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I pulled out a garage sale find electric air compressor that I put into storage as soon as I got it several years back, and I now finally have the room to set it up. It is an older tank compressor, with wheels and handle, I am guessing it might be about 20 gallons in size, horizontal tank. The name escapes me, doesn't seem to be common. Seems to run just fine, though noisy, and has a leaky hose that I have a replacement for.

My question is, before my first use for it (inflate tires), and eventually, paint sprayer and air tools, what do I need to add to the air line? A filter of some sort, I'm thinking to keep dirt, moisture and oil out.

Also, what sort of maintenance do I need to do on it?
First things I would do is clean up all the old oil, check or replace the intake air filter, definitely drain the tank, make sure the drain valve has a good seal, change the oil, buy a new belt, and last get a new filter/regulator. As others have said check electrical connections and the power cord. When you fire it up next time put some soapy water on all the tank fittings including around the regulator. For hose and tool fittings, Milton V style are very good
 
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Just for fun, I looked up Ingersoll Rand compressors on their website. These are the big professional, piston type,2 stage compressors. Of course the owners manuals and maintenance recommendations are there as well. I suppose things change over the years with compressors as we see in lubricants. These days they call for their own brand oil, which is a full synthetic. They even list some of the important properties that it has, which include anti-foam additives, dispersants, and a few others...but no detergent per se.
They also list a few substitutes, one of which is ND-30, and some specified by S.U. numbers, which look like hydraulic oils to me.
The part I found most curious is that they strictly call for their own brand synthetic to start out with, but they also say if you start the compessor using Non Detergent, that it must be "decarbonized" before switching back to their synthetic. I can't figure out how a compressor "carbonizes" ND-30......(and not synthetic?) when there is no combustion involved.
 

weebl

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Canada
Was that drain for the oil or the air tank? Nice it's made in London Ontario. Will probably run forever if its maintained properly.
Air tank drain. Barely any liquid inside, and it seemed like a trace of oil and not water.
 

JC1

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Location
Oshawa, Ontario Canada
Air tank drain. Barely any liquid inside, and it seemed like a trace of oil and not water.
Thats good. When I bought an oil-less coleman compressor the guy never drained it. When I finally got the petcock off, I think more than 1 liter of rusty water came out that looked like gravy. Put a ball valve on it for easier drains. When I picked up this 60 gallon compressor, it only had a little water in it. Transferred the ball valve to that compressor.
 

weebl

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First things I would do is clean up all the old oil, check or replace the intake air filter, definitely drain the tank, make sure the drain valve has a good seal, change the oil, buy a new belt, and last get a new filter/regulator. As others have said check electrical connections and the power cord. When you fire it up next time put some soapy water on all the tank fittings including around the regulator. For hose and tool fittings, Milton V style are very good
Thanks, just ordering all the bits and pieces I need, and will likely get around to working on it later this month.
 

weebl

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Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
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Canada
Just for fun, I looked up Ingersoll Rand compressors on their website. These are the big professional, piston type,2 stage compressors. Of course the owners manuals and maintenance recommendations are there as well. I suppose things change over the years with compressors as we see in lubricants. These days they call for their own brand oil, which is a full synthetic. They even list some of the important properties that it has, which include anti-foam additives, dispersants, and a few others...but no detergent per se.
They also list a few substitutes, one of which is ND-30, and some specified by S.U. numbers, which look like hydraulic oils to me.
The part I found most curious is that they strictly call for their own brand synthetic to start out with, but they also say if you start the compessor using Non Detergent, that it must be "decarbonized" before switching back to their synthetic. I can't figure out how a compressor "carbonizes" ND-30......(and not synthetic?) when there is no combustion involved.
I don't understand this either, so I will likely use an ND-30, at least this time around, until I actually understand more. I now have a better use for my leftover quart of QSUD 5W-30 anyway.
 

weebl

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Jan 15, 2006
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Canada
Thats good. When I bought an oil-less coleman compressor the guy never drained it. When I finally got the petcock off, I think more than 1 liter of rusty water came out that looked like gravy. Put a ball valve on it for easier drains. When I picked up this 60 gallon compressor, it only had a little water in it. Transferred the ball valve to that compressor.
Gross. I will definitely look at putting on a ball valve for an easier drain.
 
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Okay, took me a while to get to it, but I grabbed some photos of it the other night.

Here's what I've found about the compressor so far.

Manufacturer is Webster Air Equipment Limited, model 24 - 2. The motor is made by Baldor Industrial Motor, and the electrical box on it is a Square D.

I took the tank drain plug out, and barely a drop of oil, basically whatever stuck to the drain plug. Belt is in good condition.

The quick connect coming out of the tank is leaky, so I will need to replace it.

It definitely can build pressure, but with the leak, I didn't keep it running, so don't know if it will reach full pressure without issue. There's nothing to suggest it won't, though.
I just got my hands on the same model of air compressor. Any idea what the voltage on the motor is. The motor tag on mine is worn to badly to tell. Thank you in advance.
 
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