Old Air Compressor

[weebl]

I pulled out a garage sale find electric air compressor that I put into storage as soon as I got it several years back, and I now finally have the room to set it up. It is an older tank compressor, with wheels and handle, I am guessing it might be about 20 gallons in size, horizontal tank. The name escapes me, doesn't seem to be common. Seems to run just fine, though noisy, and has a leaky hose that I have a replacement for.

My question is, before my first use for it (inflate tires), and eventually, paint sprayer and air tools, what do I need to add to the air line? A filter of some sort, I'm thinking to keep dirt, moisture and oil out.

Also, what sort of maintenance do I need to do on it?

 

[demarpaint]

A water separator and regulator would be a good idea. After you determine if the tank is safe, and not badly corroded. If it passes muster, I'd change the pump oil with a good synthetic pump oil, if the pump is serviceable, oil the motor, and check the condition of the belt, if it has one.

 

[weebl]

Thanks. It is belt driven, so I will pull the cover off and check it.

 

[Donald]

Check the electrical connection especially in the pressure shut off. Make sure everything is tight. With vibration they can loosen. Have you drained the tank? Hopefully it has a drain and is not full of water.

 

[JohnnyG]

And don't fall for that non-detergent oil for compressors fallacy, use a good high detergent oil, probably multi grade.
I've also used 46AW hydraulic oil on these with good results. Non detergent will allow the rings to stick.

 

[TheLastWord]

And don't fall for that non-detergent oil for compressors fallacy, use a good high detergent oil, probably multi grade.
I've also used 46AW hydraulic oil on these with good results. Non detergent will allow the rings to stick.

I've been using M1 10W-30 for the last 35 years in my Craftsman made by Devillbus 3HP 30 gallon unit.

I've been offered $500 unsolicited for it which I turned down.

 

[weebl]

I've been using M1 10W-30 for the last 35 years in my Craftsman made by Devillbus 3HP 30 gallon unit.

I've been offered $500 unsolicited for it which I turned down.

So I could get away with using the random quart of QSUD 5W-30 I have kicking around that I can't use in any of my current vehicles?

 

[JTK]

If it's noisy I assume it's a high RPM oil-less?

 

[weebl]

If it's noisy I assume it's a high RPM oil-less?

Not sure. I ran it for maybe 5 minutes to try it out, but I didn't look at it too closely. I will need to really look at it, but I've been helping family move this past week.

 

[sloinker]

Another thread without pictures. The shame.

 

[TheLastWord]

Another thread without pictures. The shame.

OP not stating or knowing what it is. The shame.

 

[JLawrence08648]

Drain the water first.

 

[Donald]

OP not stating or knowing what it is. The shame.

Yes - we always need model, serial number and date of manufacture at a minimum.

 

[weebl]

Okay, took me a while to get to it, but I grabbed some photos of it the other night.

Here's what I've found about the compressor so far.

Manufacturer is Webster Air Equipment Limited, model 24 - 2. The motor is made by Baldor Industrial Motor, and the electrical box on it is a Square D.

I took the tank drain plug out, and barely a drop of oil, basically whatever stuck to the drain plug. Belt is in good condition.

The quick connect coming out of the tank is leaky, so I will need to replace it.

It definitely can build pressure, but with the leak, I didn't keep it running, so don't know if it will reach full pressure without issue. There's nothing to suggest it won't, though.

 

[JC1]

Drain the water first.

Yes you may have a quart or more of rusty water in the tank. I would also install a ball drain valve on the compressor to drain the water from the tank periodically.

 

[#18FAN]

And don't fall for that non-detergent oil for compressors fallacy, use a good high detergent oil, probably multi grade.
I've also used 46AW hydraulic oil on these with good results. Non detergent will allow the rings to stick.

So are all compressor manufacturers all wet with statements like this and I should just disregard their advice???

 

[clinebarger]

And don't fall for that non-detergent oil for compressors fallacy, use a good high detergent oil, probably multi grade.
I've also used 46AW hydraulic oil on these with good results. Non detergent will allow the rings to stick.

The compressor I use everyday & depend on to make a living is 42 years old, Has had nothing but non-detergent oil in it's crankcase. The compressor in my garage is 60+ years old running ND-30 weight.

 

[JohnnyG]

The compressor I use everyday & depend on to make a living is 42 years old, Has had nothing but non-detergent oil in it's crankcase. The compressor in my garage is 60+ years old running ND-30 weight.

And one day, when the rings stick, and you change the reed valves with no improvement, you will finally know what I'm telling you is true.
I've seen it happen.
Now to be fair, the piston air compressor I'm telling you about did not run EVERY day. If yours does, you may be better off with the ND30.

 

[clinebarger]

You've seen this one time & now evey major compressor manufacturer is wrong about the recommended oil?? I think I would've ran across this issue by now if it really was an issue!

 

[JC1]

The compressor I use everyday & depend on to make a living is 42 years old, Has had nothing but non-detergent oil in it's crankcase. The compressor in my garage is 60+ years old running ND-30 weight.

That compressor will probably go another 60 years.