Old 6.2L GM military truck ... Talk me out of this......

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Made a new battery support. Usual arrangement is the two batteries are about 18 inch apart. The front one was rusted pretty bad due to leaky battery at some point.

Got some military terminals and remade all the battery connections to the 24v buss bar.

Ran a new negative to frame, frame to body, body to battery ground on the front battery.

Made me an intake tube out of 4'' silicone steel coil reinforced tube, and a flange at the front fender close to what was there factory. Someone though sucking in hot air at the cleaner was better. I do not.

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installed new PS pump and hoses, filled with Maxlife ATF, 3\8 fuel injection hose and fuel injection clamps

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Found this to be seeping a bit of engine oil, the book says it is for oil sampling. Easy oil analysis I guess. Fixed the leak in the valve.

Last known thing is to see why the driver side generator is not charging the battery. I think I am on to something with the exciter circuit, we will see.

Took it for the first test drive today after changing all the gear, ATF, and engine oil, and the previously mentioned work.

Brought tire pressure up to 60, and seeming to smooth it out a bit on the road, enhanced it road manners.

Thats it for now.
 
Does anyone know if the 6.2L in this miliary application has the better block. Apparently the block castings were better on the AM general versions. Was wondering what made them better?
 
Does anyone know if the 6.2L in this miliary application has the better block. Apparently the block castings were better on the AM general versions. Was wondering what made them better?
From research, they have the "j" code block. Which is "better" than the "c" code. Why who knows, great question.

Some think there is a "J" code military block. Again, who knows?

Good question, I would like to know too.
 
Is your usage going to justify the cost, fuel, upkeep, and insurance? Or is it just a big toy? If it's a big toy, there is nothing wrong with that as long at the total cost does not significantly impact your total budget.
 
From research, they have the "j" code block. Which is "better" than the "c" code. Why who knows, great question.

Some think there is a "J" code military block. Again, who knows?

Good question, I would like to know too.
There was also an capstone engine rebuild program for the 6.2 and 6.5 for the HMMMV, I know some of the CUCUs got them. Then like 1000s of engines sat in crates that went to auction. There was a change on the letter of the block for this, I can't remember what it was along with a sticker.
 
The new seat means "city miles" as there were endless butts sliding in and out, every 1/2 mile.

I wonder about the chain of custody on these, from government auction to the guy you've found it from, with each party adding value, or, perhaps, just price.

Also make sure you get a title. Humvees for example may not.

I work on a navy yard where the vehicles never exceed 20 mph or trips over a mile, except leaving once a month for gas. I wouldn't think twice about the odometer reading but instead use your normal used-car senses to see how whipped the thing is, how tight the steering is, how leaky the powertrain is, etc. We have a POS Transit Connect with 10k miles and a hole in the rubber "carpet" under the pedals down to rusty floorpan already. We joke about running the other way if we see something of ours on govdeals.com.
Hey, we use govdeals.com now too. I am surprised how much people pay for junk. I miss the days of a silent auction where almost no one ever shows up from the ad in the paper. Used to get stuff for dirt cheap. That truck probably sold for $500-$1000 or less back then
 
Around here in New England you can't buy a running, driving square body that isn't a clapped out rust bucket for less than $7,500. To get a basic one in solid condition is easily going to be $10k+. Low miles and in GREAT shape, easy $15k plus.

That thing is mint...and if I were looking for one I'd pay that all day.

Probably lots of short trips and you'll need to service a whole bunch of things...but if that is your hobby I'd say go for it! If you expect to pay someone to do this work for you it might become very costly.
 
Around here in New England you can't buy a running, driving square body that isn't a clapped out rust bucket for less than $7,500. To get a basic one in solid condition is easily going to be $10k+. Low miles and in GREAT shape, easy $15k plus.

That thing is mint...and if I were looking for one I'd pay that all day.

Probably lots of short trips and you'll need to service a whole bunch of things...but if that is your hobby I'd say go for it! If you expect to pay someone to do this work for you it might become very costly.
Ill sell it to you for 15k, hell, I'll deliver it.
 
Are you going to change the 4.56 gearing?
Really, the 5.7 350 gasser of the same era was rated at 300 ft lbs with 3.7 gears, at a high rpm range.

With 4.56 gears the 6.2 diesel has the range torque to the wheels, transferred slower, 40 hp slower.

Not sure on gas mileage of that vintage 350 though.

If I were to one day go with a gas engine, say a 454, or 383.....something with some big power, I would just put bigger tires, thus effectively changing the gears and adding some offroad prowess.

None of that is in my near or absolute future. By in large, I will keep it as reasonably stock as possible, minus some well know upgrades for reliability.
 
I bet it would be great for towing.
I could see at low speed, maybe 5k, continously, much more than that, I would just use my other truck. Maybe one day, I will get the complimentary trailer as it has the proper hookup for the lights. But not in the near future.
 
For anyone with one of these things. This is some really good references pertaining to known issues and fixing them. They DO NOT translate to the civilian versions 100%. Some info would. I have a GEN1 exciter wire no voltage issue I am tracking down, and without this knowledge, I for one would be lost.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-helpful-threads.123199/
 
No. I do not mind cruising at 45-50mph.

The gearing is the source of its capability, IMO. What makes it what it is.
Gear vendors and add an inline overdrive.

Turbo 400 lasts forever but it does suck extra fuel and power spinning all that fluid.

Our 82 went a long time in towing duty with a turbo 400 and relatively high rear gears.

J-code 6.2’s aren’t better, just not pollution controlled.
C-code is California spec and tends to last longer and get better fuel economy

A popular modification is to use a c-code top end / intake, you loose a small amount of power but gain fuel economy.


depending on year, spec and whether it’s mil spec determines horsepower c-code is always the same J-code is all over the map in terms of power.

Very late j-code 6.2’s could potentially have a stronger block, girdles and forged components.
The early c-code had red blocks which tend to be less likely to crack in the webbing

I could see at low speed, maybe 5k, continously, much more than that, I would just use my other truck. Maybe one day, I will get the complimentary trailer as it has the proper hookup for the lights. But not in the near future.

6.2’s are very sensitive to air and hills moreso than weight. They accelerate like a train pulling 10,000lbs but if the trailer isn’t a big air dam and you max tire air pressure it will still go full speed and get ok fuel economy.

You can have a lightweight empty 5th wheel up a mile high and a 6.2 will barely move.

We typically pulled an enclosed trailer or a longer camper, a homemade rather extreme air dam and aerodynamic embellishments added 10-15mph to our top speed and saved a lot of fuel.
 
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Did 1 short run, oil is Napa 15w40 conventional. Did short run just to flush whatevever was in there as I did not know the OCI of the previous owners. Of note, crusing RPMS are by the math about 2700
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