old 5HP B&S - new coil - still no spark?

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My dad has an old B&S horizontal shaft on a tiller.

No spark - replaced the coil. The kill terminal is completely disconnected. Gapped it with a business card - no idea how thick the business card was. Still no spark. I don't know the coil brand. It was sourced from "the internet". (My dad is 85, and yes he still tills his own garden)

I told him to double check under the bolts of the coil, etc. I assume it grounds there?

So do the magneto coils on these things fail eventually - or try to source a better coil, or?
 
I have replaced several coils in the last ten years on various pieces of OPE which I have. I changed one last fall and it failed after three mowings. There are junk ones out there. I would atleast make sure you have continuity thru the coil, using an ohmeter. I would use a feeler gauge next time to gap it. Specs usually call for .008-.012. I go right in the middle. It is also warned not to over tighten the mounting bolts. A while ago, I ran into a flywheel which seemed to have a magnetic issue where it wouldn't trigger the coil but that is extremely rare. The ones I had did not have points.
 
I would guess its 25 ish years old. I thought the trigger coil did that part?
You may just have to just lightly sand the points with emory cloth to restore the spark. Points last a long time and rarely go bad unless the condenser is open. I didn't realize it was so old with having points is a good possibility.That is very likely if the engine were stored with the points open. I always store an engine on it compression stroke where the points are closed and tarnishing rarely happens.
 
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My dad has an old B&S horizontal shaft on a tiller.

No spark - replaced the coil. The kill terminal is completely disconnected. Gapped it with a business card - no idea how thick the business card was. Still no spark. I don't know the coil brand. It was sourced from "the internet". (My dad is 85, and yes he still tills his own garden)

I told him to double check under the bolts of the coil, etc. I assume it grounds there?

So do the magneto coils on these things fail eventually - or try to source a better coil, or?
try sanding down the magnets a little where they contact the coil. The business card should be just fine. Replace spark plug & wire if you can. Otherwise it may even be an intake & exaust valve needing re-gapped. It gives you an opportunity to see if the valves are opening & closing too.
 
Last resort, check the flywheel key. If it is partially sheared, the timing for spark generation will be messed up. This would be for a magneto type ignition.
 
You may just have to just lightly sand the points with emory cloth to restore the spark. Points last a long time and rarely go bad unless the condenser is open. I didn't realize it was so old with having points is a good possibility.That is very likely if the engine were stored with the points open. I always store an engine on it compression stroke where the points are closed and tarnishing rarely happens.
Is there an easy way to tell if it has points without pulling the flywheel. I looked on youtube and they said their were wires going behind the coil. Is the coil different? - I would presume the wires from the points and condenser connect to the trigger side of the coil?
 
The wire for the points would go from the coil to under the flywheel. It connects to the same terminal on the coil as the kill wire -- if an ignition kill switch is used. Many of the points engines were instead provided with a metal tab that grounds out the spark plug directly.
 
I just had a Briggs 5hp on a tiller in. Verified no spark, turns out someone before me replaced the coil. Problem was that the low tension terminal on the new coil was touching the engine block. A little tweak to the terminal and problem solved.
 
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