Old 4Runner Oil Suggestions..

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I've got a 2000 4Runner 3.4 V6 (5VZ-FE) I've had for a year, 180k mi...I've rotated through two oils.

I drive 18-20k mi/yr, mostly highway. Live in SC. 5-6k mi OCI, using oversized OEM filters (YZZD3).

I had been using Mobil 1 HM 5w30 but the engine seemed a little noisy. Switched over to Rotella T6 to quiet it down and have noticed a slight decrease in mileage (22 mixed --> 20 mixed), which makes some difference as much as I drive.

I've got 2qts Rotella left from my last change that I'll probably just stick with, but I could mix (if that's ok)--I'm torn on a few possibilities after this OCI.

Thinking of swapping over to Valvoline Maxlife 10w30 (either full synth or blend, thinking blend to save $$), PYB 10w30, or maybe trying Mobil 1 10w30 or 0w30 AFE.

Thoughts? I know with my shorter OCIs synthetic probably doesn't matter. I also know I'm probably overthinking it--but that's probably why we're all here. I just want to maximize the life of the truck that I love.

Oh, and here's an old UOA:
vA1gnd8.png
 
OP, I have the exact vehicle (engine, miles, ect).

I currently use Synthetic suptertech 5w30, I chose this due to my frequent oil changes and low annual millage (2x per year) 4-5k OC. Oil filter I am currently using is Fram Pro

I use to use 5w30 PU & PP & napa gold oil filters until I bought my second vehicle.
 
I don't think any oil from 30 to 40 grade (hot) can account for a 10% change in fuel mileage. You have something else going on there that just coincided with your oil change.

I make it a habit to move my engines to HDEO (15W-40) when they hit around 125,000 miles, or a bit earlier. I've never seen a mileage decrease of more than 0.1 in quite a few vehicles now.

I have seen throttle position sensors and idle air motors do what you are experiencing. I've also seem ECM controlled distributors do it when they loose maximum vacuum advance capability.

You gotta look deeper than just an oil change...
 
Some of that may be chance, driving conditions or whatever. It's pretty consistent from season to season and I've cleaned IAC valve, MAF, changed spark plugs/wires, etc.

The fuel efficiency isn't really why I'm thinking of switching, just looking for some input.

Maybe (probably) I'm overthinking or whatever--just thinking of switching to a more cost effective oil (17$/5qts as opposed to 19$/gal for T6) and maybe moving to a 10w30 or something for valvetrain quietness?

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I don't think any oil from 30 to 40 grade (hot) can account for a 10% change in fuel mileage. You have something else going on there that just coincided with your oil change.

I make it a habit to move my engines to HDEO (15W-40) when they hit around 125,000 miles, or a bit earlier. I've never seen a mileage decrease of more than 0.1 in quite a few vehicles now.

I have seen throttle position sensors and idle air motors do what you are experiencing. I've also seem ECM controlled distributors do it when they loose maximum vacuum advance capability.

You gotta look deeper than just an oil change...
 
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If you have an O'Reilly's in SC you can buy a gallon of the Delo 400 SD 15w30 (on sale this month) and add those two quarts of Rotella T6 5w40 that you have left over.
 
Would those 2qts of T6 mix ok with T5 10w30 y'think? That's crazy cheap here.
 
Originally Posted By: leemajors
Would those 2qts of T6 mix ok with T5 10w30 y'think? That's crazy cheap here.


Ya, that'd mix perfectly.
 
Got a 2002 with 200k and am running Amsoil 15w-40 AME. VERY sweet. I'm with BrocLuno.
 
I buy a jug of 0w30 mobil1 for the 4runner and a jug of 0w40 mobil1 for the xterra.

Dump the whole jug of 0w30 in and make up the difference with the 0w40.

Zero oil consumption. With 3inch toytec and heavy 32inch 10ply mts, it gets 17-18 mpg.

7500 mile interval and could probably go to 15k with no worries.

That motor is easy on oil.
 
Originally Posted By: leemajors
Any thoughts on M1 0w40 in this engine?


That'd be fine too but if you already have the two quarts of T6 leftover I'd just stick with that.
 
I would try the M1 10w-30 HM.

I have a similar vintage Lexus V6, and Acura V6 (really and Isuzu engine). I have tried a lot of oils and this is really giving me the best performance when viewed from smoothness, quiet, and reduced oil consumption (very little in the Toyota engine - 1/2 qt in 7.5k OCI). Unlike the others in your list, it is SL rated and with higher doses of ZDDP more appropriate to your engine, I think. It is a beefier oil vs. the M1 5w-30 HM and has a 3.5 HTHS and ACEA A3/B3 rating, though I think the AW package is the same to be fair.

I use this for 7.5k oci's on the Lexus and with your hwy miles and that strong filter, you could, too.

Ow-40 is a strong oil and I have it one vehicle; However I had not run it long enough to get a real personal opinion. BUT: it doesn't have the add pack that could help your HM vehicle, and it's got a lot of VIIs you don't need since you live in a reasonable climate.

As to cost, I buy 2 jugs of M1 2x a year when they have the rebate; it's always cheaper than maxlife blend that way, even when it's on rebate. Cost doesn't need to be a factor if you shop smart.
 
I have 2000 3.4L, and use conventional 10w40 in it, with 3K miles oil change interval, no issues so far.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I have seen throttle position sensors and idle air motors do what you are experiencing. I've also seem ECM controlled distributors do it when they loose maximum vacuum advance capability.

You gotta look deeper than just an oil change...


So, going way back for this update--

I ended up having a slowly failing TPS--infrequent stumbles at highway speeds with no CEL, occasional unstable idle while in gear only. Replaced with one off a wrecked 4Runner from a junkyard--no more problems 500+mi in. Thought you'd appreciate the update since I had no real signs at the time other than mpg--very perceptive! Back up to 21+ mixed driving.

Still probably switching oils--most likely full syn Castrol Edge HM 5w- or 10w30, but still toying with the Mobil 1 0w30 or HM 10w30. So many choices...
 
If the engine is starting to get noisy, maybe check the valve clearances at that mileage. I'm at 350,000 kms on my 5VZFE and have similar oil analysis results.
 
Napa Auto Parts has full synthetic 5W-50 (along with the lower weights) on sale for $2.99/qt. Not saying you need it, but you could choose one and do OK on price
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I just bought 6 qts for my next big Bronco change after the rear gasket gets fixed. Will go to 2-year change at that point
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My 5VZ responded well to Pennzoil Platinum. I used exclusively regular Mobil 1 5W-30 prior and the engine always seemed a bit rattly. I still think M1 is a great oil, but after using the Pennzoil synthetic I have no desire to go back anytime soon and it's cheaper. My engine runs quieter, seems to respond smoother and I picked up a slight increase in fuel mileage as well.
 
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