Okay, i was wrong..

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Astro14

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What about getting stuck in snow banks and flooring it in both directions? Like a previous member on here did with a Volvo station wagon.
As I recall, the tire exploded, damaging the driveshaft, transmission, and body, totaling the car.

The engine was fine, so, sure, MOBIL 1 5W20 if that’s what you’re doing with your car…
 
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Even the difference in temp between the artic and death valley does not change the operating temp of the engine. It obviously changes the starting temp but not the operating temp. There is no argument for a small car with respect to 20 and 30 weight oil, outdoor temps, and operating temp viscosity.
 
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What about getting stuck in snow banks and flooring it in both directions? Like a previous member on here did with a Volvo station wagon.
If that is how you are trying to get out of a snow bank you are doing it wrong and will stay stuck. In that case you will probably need a new transmission.
 
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If that is how you are trying to get out of a snow bank you are doing it wrong and will stay stuck. In that case you will probably need a new transmission.
Lol...I had a 2010.5 XC60 R-Design and we had a blizzard with 40" of snow. The roads hadn't been plowed for 3 days because none of the regular trucks could do it and they were doing it with heavy equipment. I started the process of shoveling out the driveway which was brutal. A neighbor snowshoed to his construction company several miles away and fired up his gigantic bulldozer hellbent on digging out the neighborhood. Nice gesture but the roads were really wide and he only plowed the other side of the street leaving me another 20' to shovel. I had had enough and just decided to ram my way out with the Volvo.

Not my best moment but it worked.
 
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If that is how you are trying to get out of a snow bank you are doing it wrong and will stay stuck. In that case you will probably need a new transmission.
He’s referring to a repeat former(?) member who related all sorts of various troubles, one of the many was this supposed event. I found that thread but it’s not worth reliving it again. I suspect this thread reminded him of that one somehow.
 
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My parents have a 2004 Taurus with a 3.0 Duratec that has right at 400k miles on GTX 5w20. It still returns stellar oil reports. 5w20 is not a problem when used in the proper application.
 
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So that leads me to think a 20w50 would be even better in a hot climate. I better run out and dump that 5w30 and get some 20w50 asap.

If you can find a synthetic 20W-50 it very well could be. Not sure a conventional is better unless the OCI is kept very short. YOu don't want to exchange one set of problems for another set.

Valvoline makes a VR1 synthetic 20W-50, but have no idea of it's composition. Red Line has 20w-50 synthetic, but not cheap of course.
 
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I know of several vehicles with over 300k miles on nothing but Xw-20. I'm not sure how much more "longevity" you would want.
 

M56959

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Majority of replies are commenting on this attempt to double down on a previously locked topic.

Don't start another variation of the same topic again.
 
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